Need some info.  DUAL HID people please.

HMan

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I'm planning on purchasing a dual HID system over the winter. However, I have some questions on it. Heat? An issue? I've read comments about it using less wattage thus less heat. I know this is not the case. It is using less wattage because the heat that HID produces helps keep it going. So, that being said, anyone with the dual system have any issues with heat damaging anything?

Second, actual visible light output. Is it truely worth it? I mean, is this a marginal improvement or considerable. I do a LOT of night riding and this is definatly deer country. What exactly should I expect here?

Any and all other little tidbits of info regarding this would be appreciated as well. Thanks.
 
How are going to place daul lights in a stock Busa headlight housing . The only problem that I can imagine is that you will probably have difficult time finding a place to mount both ballastr cuz trying to do one (ballastr) was a beyyyyyoootch
 
How are going to place daul lights in a stock Busa headlight housing .  The only problem that I can imagine is that you will probably have difficult time finding a place to mount both ballastr cuz trying to do one (ballastr) was a beyyyyyoootch
Uhh, duals man. You have two bulbs. You can buy dual kits at least two places that I'm aware of. Its nothing new.
 
I have dual 35w, 4700K HIDs from hidkits.com. The installation I have uses two ballasts, and there was room in the cowling for both (lotsa wire ties). They consume a total of 55w less juice than the stock halogens and they radiate very little heat.

They are bright. When I run the high beams during the DAY I get flashed by other drivers. The improvement at night is also significant -- let's say a "40% improvement." Plus, the frequencies emitted by this class of HID really brings out retroreflective surfaces like road signs.

The "worth it" bit is tricky -- the Hayabusa (and most other bikes) needs more light for conspicuity's sake as well as for illumination. Since its charging system is so-so, extra halogens like the motolights I had on my BMW aren't really an option and would be hard to fit anyway.

As it is, I need to run heated gear in winter, so the ideal choice was something that actually saved me wattage, and the HIDs were perfect for that.
 
They are bright. When I run the high beams during the DAY I get flashed by other drivers. The improvement at night is also significant -- let's say a "40% improvement." Plus, the frequencies emitted by this class of HID really brings out retroreflective surfaces like road signs.
The conspicuoty (sp?) thing is important to me but just plain improvement in vision is highest on my list. The "40% improvement" makes me happy to hear. :D

How long approximatly was the install and anything important regarding this I should know.
 
Not knowing anything bout HID Ill give my .02 cents.

The HID in the low beam circuit works beautifuly. SHould be stock IMO. Make sure the ballast your getting offers short circuit protection so it will just shut down not short out. Too expensive to go any other way. Also make sure the ballast is of the hot sync relight type or if it's on and you turn it off you will be waitin a mutha of a long time for the bulbs to cool down before it relights. The smaller the ballast the better/lighter. Attempt to get a ballast that does not use high tension lines from the ballast to socket in a one piece design (better), or from the seperate ignighter box to the socket. The down falls of high tension lines is they tend to crack or seperate if bent by mistake. There is about 80,000 or so volts down those high tension line types. Hell of a way to short out your bike cause you crimped the line. If you can get the digital ones you will like it better. The high tension lines cannot be shortened or lengthened.

2nd. Make sure the kit your getting has the availability of getting replacment bulbs. Most of the converted car kits out there someone has had "modified" hid bulbs made. The base was modified to fit your specific socket. Yes install is a smidge easier but when you need a new bulb and joe schmo is no longer around, no one elses bulbs will work due to the modification in the bulb itself.

Check the price of the modified bulbs first. Modified is more expensive. I get my HID bulbs Osram 4300K D2R 35 watters for $85.00. Most modified bulbs are $179-$279 each.

Make sure your getting a D2R bulb. It has a reflector strip on it for your type headlight. Most kits out there are for focused lens vehicles which use D2S bulbs. Fubar's the beam pattern when used in your type light. Looks bright but sucks in usable ambient light.

3rd. Putting an HID behind the highbeam lower light. Your stock highbeam has a refocused lens thats thick as a coke bottle. IT is focused for the stock 65 watt filiment bulb with an average lumens output. When you put an HID behind the lens #1, you usually have the wrong type bulb. #2, the thickness of the lens renders the light useless. The light is distorted so bad that's why he's getting flash. Again looks bright, but a good surefire flash light thats 6" long will out shine the beam.

You can remove the thick arse lens but due to no reflector behind it, it becomes worthless and looks like piss.

Again not cause I sell em but been there done that. Looks neat but at 150 my life depends on it.

ICE
 
HMan
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Location: Southern Indiana Posted: Nov. 21 2003,9:09

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Quote (Rhythm @ Nov. 21 2003,8:01)
How are going to place daul lights in a stock Busa headlight housing . The only problem that I can imagine is that you will probably have difficult time finding a place to mount both ballastr cuz trying to do one (ballastr) was a beyyyyyoootch

Uhh, duals man. You have two bulbs. You can buy dual kits at least two places that I'm aware of. Its nothing new. [/QUOTE]

I'm aware that we have two lights in the light housing (duh) , I have installed my HID kit purchased from Icemann last year . What I meant to ask you was how are you going to get the HID to fit in the Hi-beam socket. I was told by Icemann it will not fit because it will hit the Hi-beam magnifier before it makes contact with the base socket unless you disassemble your headlight housing to remove the hi-beam magnifier.


Mcoyote please explain to us how you achieved doing this dual installl and show us some photos if you can also ? Yes mounting two ballastr can be done like I said but will be very difficult and I can image how cluttered it must look with two ballastr cuz with one it was a task keeping in order
 
Hell yea thats cheatin. Man a dual set up in that would be killa. You could land a SEAL team with that baby. Nick If your interested I got some more left. Arnt ya just curious.......watch the pendilum.........you are gettin sleeepy......

Hey sent $$ for the pin kit for your info.

ICE
 
..f.Mcoyote please explain to us how you achieved doing this dual installl and show us some photos if you can also ?   Yes mounting two ballastr can be done like I said but will be very difficult and I can image how cluttered it must look with two ballastr cuz with one it was a task keeping in order
(...I'll take some pictures first chance I get, but I don't have the opportunity this weekend...)

Well, part of it has to do with the kits themselves. There are nice long wires from the plugs to the ballasts and from the ballasts to the bulbs. The bulbs basically fit in the stock mounting points -- the low beam is a little loose actually. The low beam is focused oddly and doesn't offer much improved coverage (beam spread way into the trees), but the high beam works very well and casts a long way.

Basically, I tucked the two ballasts inside the cowl, mounted vertically, between the air intakes and the plastic pins that help to mount the cowl in the dash assembly. I used doubled-up wire ties to bind them together and then harness them to the plastic in the cowl so the whole thing is still removeable. No drilling.

The connectors that went to the stock bulbs (more or less) plugged into the connectors that lead to the ballasts, so the only problem was making room for the ballasts and everything wired right up. The wires also have plastic sheaths to prevent chafing and such. These ballasts charge up pretty quickly, as well -- I can switch off the high beam and have it back on in five seconds or so.



<!--EDIT|mcoyote
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Your comment about the lows has me curious. Is it really any improvement if the focus is off?

Sounds like the bright is great. Honestly though, is the low better?
 
<span style='color:red'>Well, part of it has to do with the kits themselves. There are nice long wires from the plugs to the [/QUOTE]</span>

That makes a big difference , the kit I have has short wires and would not have reached if I put them in the location as your so I opt for attaching them the inside most fwd part of the air intake where it connects to the fairing using double sided tape and zip ties. Also I had to grind off a mounting bracket on the ballastr because of the interferrence with the steering damper on hard turns.

]The connectors that went to the stock bulbs (more or less) plugged into the connectors that lead to the ballasts, so the only problem was making room for the ballasts and everything wired right up[/QUOTE][/color


You lucky dog u I had to modify the kit I had by partially removing the female cover on the ballastr just enough expose the connector to hook up a source . So like your kit was more user friendly, well I cant argue they were only $150 at the time when I bought them from Icemann. I havent talk to Icemnn in a while so maybe he is selling a different kit now that doesnt rquire so much work but it was definetly a saving at the time compared to $500. Also you said the HID fitted fine in the hi-beam area . So this was just a plug and Play deal here ,I thought the HID light was too long for fitment in that area causing contact with the magnafier ? For on and off as safety precaution I putted a inline on and off insulated toggle switch with the use a relay to avoid problem of interruption on start . I have heard that this can cause problem with the HID kit ,so when after starting the bike I just flip the switch to on (voila)..no starter interruption to the HID . I dont know exactly what problem can arise from this other than early wear and tear on the ballast.

So can you imagine all of the wires I had in the front cowling area for this setup, but I rather be safe side for the small price invested (relay).
 
Your comment about the lows has me curious.  Is it really any improvement if the focus is off?

Sounds like the bright is great.  Honestly though, is the low better?
I think it is brighter (the upper bulb), just not as much as an improvement as the high beam (the lower bulb, with the huge lens). I think the net improvement with both is that "40%" I was talking about. If I'm running at night out in the country I definitely want both on, but that stands to reason.
 
Dude if I may. What your trying to say and what your saying I think is just backwards but me and Rhythm have the same thought and idea.

Your LOW beam or UPPER BULB (without the round lens) is the better source of light in the HID series. If you have the right bulb. (look at the glass on the bulb itself. You should have a silver reflective material that looks like it's painted on the glass). That should be horizontal across the top of the bulb. It forces a bounce affect which causes the light to go forward and down. Without that reflective material you have a D2S bulb. IT's designed for a different type of headlight.

Either way it's better than stock. You may just need to adjust the height and angle with the factory adjusters.

An HID in the HIGH BEAM or lower bulb (w/lens), is the focus problem your having. That lens was prefocused to the stock bulb. You went wider/brighter pattern when out of focus distorts the beam pattern. It looks bright head on but offers no real light on the ground where you need it. Since you have it in I would adjust the two to the best you can. Still better than stock. If you got a "GREAT DEAL" then thats really good, but not worth buying an HID for the highbeam alone.

note: Where ever you do get a couple spare bulbs as soon as possible because if they go under your screwed.


ICE
 
Thanks guys for saving me some trouble. Just decided not to mess with HID. Just listen to yourselves. Doesn't seem worth it at all.
 
Wrong, it's damn well worth it. I bought the single bulb kit from Iceman and it took all of 30 minutes for me to install and works so much better then the stock lighting and of course the power savings for running other devices.
 
EAKbusa
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Location: SW Virginia Posted: Nov. 25 2003,3:17

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Thanks guys for saving me some trouble. Just decided not to mess with HID. Just listen to yourselves. Doesn't seem worth it at all.
[/QUOTE]


Stick with the single install and there wont be any trouble EAK . I'm not saying that the dual HID intall can not be successfully done but MCOYOTE has not given any details on how successfull he was at achieveing a HI-beam install only to say where he has attached the ballastr . I came across a post early this yr with him saying how loosely the HID fitted in the HI-beam socket so I just PM'd two days ago asking if he has resolved this problem with no answer so until I get some positive feedback I'm stickn with the single install.
 
 So what happen MC did you ever get it to work in the HI-Beam socket properly like the low beam ?
 
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