Airbox mod

E

EAKbusa

Registered
I am installing a full Micron system this week and I am surely going to get a PC111R as well. I am removing the pair assembly too.

Now I need to look at the airbox. Do I need to mod this by removing the flapper or changing the filters or both? Why and what will it do for me? I do not want to loose mid range to gain top end so I am thinking maybe I should leave the airbox alone. What do you think?External Links Missing

Geez I need to call Johnnycheese.
 
I would just go with a BMC free flow filter and leave the box alone, see how it feels for you.
 
I agree... I feel like my airbox mod took a very little bit away from my start (i.e. low RPM's she sputters a bit more).
 
uh oh clyde, here we go again... to mod or not to mod, that is the question. I undestand you must cut the entire top out of the box to take full advantage of the pipe. Oracle, my bike stumbles off idle too just by adding the Ti-Force pipe, thats all supposed to be cured through mapping?

"Teka provides smaller throttle position increments, too. 1% to 10%, 11% to 25%,26% to 50%, 51% to 75% and 76% to 100% in proto Teka. Addresses Hayabusa off-idle glitches, where you need to richen up the "very small throttle opening" or just above that to address "hiccups".
" excerpt from  http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods33.html

seems like that stumble may be a mapping issue? MORE FUEL, MORE FUEL!



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Cheese'll probably tell you same thing as I am about to.

The only purpose the flapper valve serves is to allow the engine to reach 'operating' temperatures before opening.

With the flapper valve removed, you can achieve the same thing by running your idle higher in the garage at around 2200 and flex down as the temp needle starts to rise . Then the valve is open.

A full airbox mod (full floor cut out and large dense filter) is not recommended unless you are running a big bore Busa.

I recommend the triangular area (small box mod) be cut away with a dremel tool and run a BMC Race filter for best NA egine results.

Low-end stumble can be eliminated with the TRE. The only thing you may notice is the possible loss of low-end torque (header or not). Simply re-map with any of your favorite tech tool, ie., Suzuki's Techa Tool, PCII/PCII/PCIIr or Yoshimura's EMS.

With these three things (sans the header) done to your Hayabusa you will definitely notice a great return.

Do you home work before you enter in and you'll always be pleased with your results.
 
Explain; WHY would you want to knowingly LIMIT the amount of air you COULD get into the airbox by NOT doing the mod??

And you bought the Hayabusa for what reason? ;)
 
"This is my Small Box mod results from a previous post a while back!"

I did the small box mod and it is quite a bit faster. You do loose a little bit of LOW end but everywhere else it is better. A buddy of mine and I did role-ons in every gear and I was pretty surprised how much of a difference it made.

Below 4k he would just barely creep on me (not even a bike length). Once it hit 4k I would stop his pull and start to real him in by 5k and would go by him around 6k! Anything over 5-6k from a role and I would instantly pull him pretty good and the bike length's would continue to increase as the speed went up.

I highly recommend this mod, even on a stock bike! :D
 
I definitely DO NOT agree with doing the airbox mod. You can see my reasoning in the Airbox mod thread I started a while back under the modifications section. There were over 40 of some of the most hotly contested debates and responses I've ever seen on the board over this issue. Check it out and you'll have more opinions than you'll ever want.

JOHNCAL

BTW.....I'm right.
 
increasing air mass with carbs will hinder performance as it tends to lean out the mixture, but with fuel injection the mixture is controlled by the ECU, dumping more air/fuel into the combustion chamber results in more power. isnt that what happens when you whack the throttle? opening or removing the airbox allows air to to be sucked in with less effort, thats what ram air is trying to do, force air, and thats why turbos are such monsters. if adding more air wasnt effective, turbos wouldnt be either, so yes add more air/fuel by all means avialable...
View attachment 1567901
 
I think removing the flapper valve makes sense and may do it. However, I remember years ago when the hot ticket was to remove your airbox and go with velocity stacks and individual filters. No one with stock internals does that anymore because the airboxes have gotten better and are proven to make more power. So there is such a thing as too much air. I think it's the velocity v. quantity thing.

Also it took a while for the manufactures to figure out ram air. The correct pressurization is a sensitive thing.
 
(artnshel @ Oct. 16 2003 said:
I think removing the flapper valve makes sense and may do it. However, I remember years ago when the hot ticket was to remove your airbox and go with velocity stacks and individual filters.  No one with stock internals does that anymore because the airboxes have gotten better and are proven to make more power. So there is such a thing as too much air.  I think it's the velocity v. quantity thing.

Also it took a while for the manufactures to figure out ram air.  The correct pressurization is a sensitive thing.
Click to expand...
huh? yea there is such a thing as too much air, its called "lean" ram air is nothing compared to a turbo, why does a header improve performance? it increases flow, right? why uncork just one end? the more fuel/air you can get in and out of the combustion chamber the more power, right? an easy test, pack your airbox with socks and see how well it runs? prolly real rich, right? keep the socks in, map out some of the fuel to get the mixture proper, put it on a dyno you might be around 120 horse? if that. basically you have de-tuned your busa. so why wouldnt the opposite have an opposite effect? more air/fuel=more HP, less air/fuel=less HP

the best test of all is getting on your bike, riding it at idle, then whack it open, does it have more power at idle or at WOT? all you have done is give it more air/fuel...
idea3.gif
... OVER



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On the other thread I find this;

(Sleeperbusa @ Aug. 14 2003 said:
A TRE DOES help smooth out the slight blip when ya roll the throttle, IF the bike has one. Some don't.

You won't damage the bike by not having a PCII.

Get the exhaust when you can afford it, it WILL help, but the bike is great in it's stock form.

The box mod doesn't need to be under heavy discussion.
A stock bike likes the "stock" box, a "flapper removed" box, OR and "small" box mod.
Alot of guys just reach in and remove the flapper, it gives a little more air flow, yet retains the low end torque.

A "big" box mod should be saved for a modified motor.

Your bike will be fine, ride and enjoy! :beerchug:
Click to expand...

This is coming from a guy that races consistantly. Everything that I have heard/read about or experienced over the last 4 years riding and tweaking my Hayabusa and others says that the airbox mod makes more than just a seat in the pants get up and go sense!  :super:

edited to eat up more bandwidth



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Geez, now I am really confused. I think it makes sense to open up the air flow on the "in" side a little as I have opened up the "out" side with the pipe. I am leaning towards a conservative mod, either remove the flapper or the small box mod (same thing?) and get a BMC filter (or just the filter, no mod). If I remove the flapper what do I do with the vacuum line ( I assume it has one)? Block it off? Or is it electronically actuated?

Well here is where I stand, Micron full pipe installed (actually tonight), pair removed, no TRE (this seems unnecessary to me), PCIIIR to come shortly. So which airbox mod would you choose if this was your bike?



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I think SleeperBusa was responding a question i made at the time. Until now I gave up the small airbox mod. It's peanuts for the bike's overall performance, although it is a cheap (zero $$$) mod. I'm having an exhaust prone here!!! Geez... i would love to have the m000nY right now to buy a full exhaust system...

So the answer is "yes - you can make the small mod for a stock busa - it's nice, it makes the bike breathe a little better, although you lose on low end"

argh! what kind of mod is that? it makes you lose something in performance!!! That's not valid and it's half a mod (that's my opinion). I don't like to change my bike to make it worse in ANY aspect. Imagine the thing: add a mod to make your bike run at a 250 mph top speed and changing it's 0-60 acceleration to, let's say 5 seconds. Would you even consider that mod? well, maybe, in some very specific circumstances but i believe you would change back to normal setup ASAP! :laugh:



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This is like beating a dead horse.

Who gives a hoot about low end torque, I stay at or around 6k to 10.8k. when shifting anyway.

Those that launch at the strip are launching at 5k anyway, full pipe/map/full box/gearing, etc., etc. and then the issue is moot!

EAK, do what you want to personalize your bike. It is all an individual thing. No two motorcycles are the same. Nor would we want them to be, that would take all of the fun out of it.

Educate yourself, make a decision and be happy with it or change it.

Search here; www.suzukihayabusa.org Keyword 'Airbox' .
 
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