Rebuilt my forks last night....

CAT3

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After noticing I had a fork seal seeping a couple weeks ago, I began to gather info. I talked with a few ppl of the .Org for parts advise and thankfully all agreed with eachother.

I went with Racetech .95/kg springs, a next heavier spring for my wt, but decided heavier than lighter since I was b/w spring rates. K&L Fork Seals and wipers and Maxima 10wt fork oil. I started the project with help from my wife and daughter (she was actually trying to pass me tools, but had to move her since some were dirty). After getting the first fork disassembled, a fellow rider showed up, luckily, and helped me assemble. Let me say this, w/o having the right tools, and using improvised things like I did, compressin the new spring was a royal PITA, I went to abdominal muscle failure! Then with Dan da Kids help we quickly went thru the second fork. It helps having someone to stabilize the parts, and assist.

All in all, it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be, but definately will be getting some fork tools. Talk about a sense of accomplishment. I have the initial suspension settings in, and double-triple checked all my work, so later today (have to help a CBR1000RR buddy move) I can take it out for a test ride and hopefully dial in suspension. Just rolling it back n forth in the house I can say it doesnt nose anywhere near what it used to. I could get it to nearly bottom out with a simple walking and quickly hitting the front brake. Now, it only moves a slight bit.

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Exploded view stock guts.
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Exploded shot with New spring for ref.
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Stock top, Rcetech bottom! A slight bit longer and thicker coils.
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Charlie
 
Your timing couldn't be better. I'm getting ready to redo mine even as we speak!

Thanks for this.

--Wag--
 
Very nice...
Man,I didn't have to even read to know which wuz the new spring!!
 
Wag, if you have the spring compressor tool and lock-nut tool your job will be quick and easy. If not, let me know and I can shoot you a detail of how I got the spacer pushed down and locked in place so you can remove the fork nut from the lock-nut. Other than that, walk in the park. I was trying to get pics as we went, but ran out of hands
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Thanks for the compliments guys.

Charlie
 
(CAT3 @ Dec. 09 2006,08:40) Wag, if you have the spring compressor tool and lock-nut tool your job will be quick and easy. If not, let me know and I can shoot you a detail of how I got the spacer pushed down and locked in place so you can remove the fork nut from the lock-nut. Other than that, walk in the park. I was trying to get pics as we went, but ran out of hands
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Thanks for the compliments guys.

Charlie
I really want to re-spring my forks at some point but haven't found a decent walk-through on the net. Whats the procedure?
 
This is great. I have printed all of these pictures.

I would appreciate any level of detail that you may not have added in this post.

Thanks again!!
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If I'm not outta line for asking.... what was your bottom line ($$$) on getting this job done~ I think I need to budget this for next year... along with a valve check/readjustment~
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Sweet,
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Cat 3 What tools would I need to have to do this and where did you gather all the parts from. Also Your forks are gold mine are silver, it's an '02 whould I need to do anything different?
 
Should have changed the valving while you were in there but hats off to you for doing one of the most important mods there is, suspension set up. Often overlooked for the things you can actually see, good work!
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bigoltool & heavybusa...I simply printed out pages 299-307 of the service manual on here, and then of course had to compromise for the lack of necessary tools. I will write-up, explain later today/tomorrow.

GJoker, Springs from Racetech $109, seals and dust wipers are K&L and were $25, fork fluid was $8/litre (bought 2, needed only 1). So, it was under a $150, my cost was only the fluid and seals/wipers. A buddy picked up the springs for me.

Greg, hell if I could have afforded it, I agree, Racetech Gold Valves, maybe later after Christmas is over and things settle back down.

AzBooSa, will write up later, but if you need help when its time, let me know and I could give you hand. Shouldn't be any difference, at least looking at PN's for springs, seals etc they all cover 99-current under one PN. Springs themselves are spec'd to your weight, via racetechs website, enter weight of rider minus gear, and it gives you a recommended spring rate, then chose one softer or stiffer than the recommendation (unless your weight hits it on the head).

Thanks for the props everyone. Took her out for a spirited ride/break-in today. I ended up doing a little and I mean little stoppie in front of my house, and no bottoming out! Awesome. I intentionally let her down hard from a nice stand-up wheelie, and no bottoming of the fork, although during reassembly I lowered her even more then before, so the fender still contacts the undernose area when coming down too hard from a wheelie. Easy fix, dont come so fricken hard. After numerous wheelies, and some curves, periodically checking seals/fender contact etc, and adjusting rebound and some compression, I think I've got her dialed in pretty decent. I'll check more into it when I hit one of the curvey roads again.

Bottom line, the Busa feels much better up front with the spec'd springs on it. I love it.
 
Fork R&R.
Parts and Supplies:
Fork Oil Seals, 2each
Fork Dust Covers (also called wipers), 2 each
Fork Fluid, 2 qts (might get away with one, better safe).
Springs*, spec’d for your weight and preference street or track
Valves*, optional but from all told, very nice to have
Bushings upper and lower*, if yours are worn out
Ultrafine emery cloth/wet sandpaper

Tools needed:
¼â€ Drive ratchet and 12mm socket shallow
3/8†Drive: Ratchet, extension, 4mm & 6mm hex head (allen drive), 12mm socket
½â€ Drive Breaker bar (ratchet or torque wrench) and 30mm “Axle Nut†socket
11mm, 13mm, 17mm wrenches
#2 or 3 Flat tip screwdriver
Drain pan
Some rags
Tape measure
Marker

Following the basics in the Service manual, pages 299-307. Front end supported, I used a stem stand. Remove: under-nose panel, front fender 4mm hex head, brake calipers 3/8†x 12mm socket (hang them by cut coat hanger, zipties etc to keep weight off the line itself), axle bike tool kit and 6mm allen, and wheel.
Loosen fork cap nut 1/2†x 30mm socket, just break it free a turn or two
Loosen lower triple clamp bolts ¼â€ x 12mm socket and ratchet for easy fit from underneath, and upper clamp 6mm allen.
Slide forks out from under clamps and bike. Fully loosen top fork nut 30mm socket. The upper tube will now slide down over the lower tube. The fork nut is held onto the internal cartridge, it is screwed onto the stem of the cartridge via a lock-nut underneath the spacer (aluminum tube with 2 holes on upper end and lower end. The Suzuki spring compressor tool is similar to a “tap and die†handle set, having two pins on opposite ends that sit inside the spacers holes, and a handle extending out to the sides for leverage. I used the axle clamp bolts, one in each hole, angled down with a rag wrapped around them for cushion on my hand. At this point you will need a friend to grab the 13mm wrench, as you push the spacer down, against the weight of the forks spring, the locknut will be exposed. Slide the open-end of the 13mm wrench UNDER the locknut and wedging the spacer in the compressed position. Now, you can release pressure on the two bolts you used to press the spacer down. Using the 17mm wrench hold the locknut, and use the 30mm socket to spin the fork nut off the cartridge rod end. Once removed, place the fork nut aside, and depress the two bolts hanging out of the spacer, remove the 13mm wrench and carefully let the spring uncompress, bringing the spacer off the cartridge end. Reach in the tube and pull the spring seat out, and spring. If replacing the spring, discard. If keeping the spring and only replacing seals fluid, go to FLUID FILL.
If replacing springs, also replace fluid. So skip to the FLUID FILL.
Seal Replacement. Now that the spring is out, pull the top tube off the lower tube. Invert the lower tube over the oil pan to drain the garbage fluid out. Once it seems the fluid is all out, begin pumping the cartridge via the locknut and threaded portion, until all available fluid is gone. Thoroughly wipe down the lower fork tube, and inspect to ensure there are no nicks, scratches etc, if there are, gently use wet-sand paper or emery cloth to wipe the surface removing any defects. Flip the upper tube so the seal is on top. Using a pick, or flat tip, carefully pry the dust wiper off and discard. Remove the seal stop ring, simply pull up on open end and walk it out working your way around, keep this part. Next, using the same wiper prying technique, pop the seal out. Be careful so you don’t scratch/gouge the inner fork wall where the seal resides. Remove the seal and discard. Remove seal stop, looks like a large washer, wipe down and reinstall. Carefully tap new seal in with the PN’s facing up towards you. Next install the seal stop ring. Now, slide the dust wiper on, this doesn’t require any tapping or pressing, simply slide onto the tube end. Use grease on the tip of a finger, and generously lube seal inner lip a edge of wiper to prevent tears during reinstall. Also, smear a small amount on outer end of lower fork tube, where the seal will first meet it for reassembly. CAREFULLY slide the upper tube over the lower tube, taking care to not tear wipers and seals. During the assembly, the tube will have to slide into the internal bushing. Once completely slide onto lower tube begin the Fluid Fill.

FLUID FILL: With the upper tube slide over the lower and collapsed, have assistant hold it up right (open end topside). Pull the dampener adjustment rod out from the center of the cartridge, it’s a small diameter long skinny aluminum rod. Using a measure tape, make a mark 3.9†from one end. (since I didn’t have a micrometer, I used one marker tip width below 4â€). With the lower tube clean, pour in almost half a quart of fork fluid. Looking into tube, once it over the cartridge end, pump the cartridge to remove the air, and continue filling, until the fluid is up to the 3.9†mark on the dampener rod, when the mark is held at top of lower tube, the rod end should meet the tip of the alum rod. Again, pump the cartridge to ensure all air is removed, and let sit a few minutes (beer or smoke time, whatever). Now, insert spring with the smaller end up, followed by spacer seat (the smaller lip facing into the spring to locate the seat).

Now for the fun part. If using new heavier springs, again, using the 2bolts into the spacer, a friend with a 13mm wrench at the ready… Steady the fork tube in the upright position. Pull the cartridge end up into the fully extended position, and quickly place the spacer/bolt/rag assembly over the cartridge end pushing down (what a PITA with a heavier spring) until your assistant can wedge the 13mm wrench under the locknut to hold the spacer in the compressed position. Once wedged, carefully measure that the locknut is 11mm down from the top of the threaded end of the cartridge. I used an 11mm wrench for this, and eyeballed it. If its not 11mm, you wont have complete adjustability of your rebound. Once the nut is down 11mm, add a drop of locktite to the threads, and screw the fork nut on, torque to spec in SM. Press down on spacer bolt to remove 13mm wrench and allow the spacer to ride fully up the fork nut stem. Lift the upper tube to the fork nut and screw together hand tight. Insert into triple clamp, adjust for desired height, and lock into place using the clamp bolts. Once clamps are tightened, tighten the fork nut using the 30mm socket and torque wrench to spec. Repeat for opposite fork. Reinstall wheel, axle, brakes, fender, under-nose panel. Set preliminary suspension settings, compression, rebound and pre-load. If using 10wt fluid, rather than 3.5-5wt, you can expect to not need as much compression, as the weight of the fluid will dampen more than lighter fluid will, same for the spring. Measure and set sag etc…

If you follow this way, it’s a PITA to compress the spring, your hands will hurt, but when you go for the test ride, and adjust you will feel so proud of yourself! I will be buying the Suzuki spring compression tool and locknut holder tool.

If you need to replace the cartridge, you will need a 10mm Allen socket, extension, and ratchet. Loosen the 10mm hex head bolt in bottom of lower fork tube, while holding the cartridge rod over to one side of the tube, this keeps just enough tension on the cartridge to prevent it from spinning while loosening. I used the impact wrench while holding cartridge to one side, then realized I didn’t need to remove the damn thing! Install, slide cartridge into tube, clean washer area on bottom of tube, insert and tighten 10mm allen bolt. Have fun.

I hope I’ve got it written well enough to supplement the SM. I wanted to get pics, but ran out of hands. If I do another set for my friend we’ll get the pics.

Charlie
 
(CAT3 @ Dec. 09 2006,09:40) Wag, if you have the spring compressor tool and lock-nut tool your job will be quick and easy. If not, let me know and I can shoot you a detail of how I got the spacer pushed down and locked in place so you can remove the fork nut from the lock-nut. Other than that, walk in the park. I was trying to get pics as we went, but ran out of hands
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Thanks for the compliments guys.

Charlie
I have the Haynes manual (thanks to HarborAreaBusa), and it shows a quick way to make a tool for compressing the spring. I should be able to do that but if I have a major problem with it, I'll definitely give you a buzz on here or PM.

Thanks a million. I'm going to respring it and revalve it per suggestions by Rich and others!

--Wag--
 
Great write-up, Charlie. I'm actually starting to look forward to this project. How did you support the bike? Hang from the ceiling?

--Wag--
 
Great post Charlie. I don't need to go get in the front end yet, but; for actual cost, it sound like a definate need to do project fairly soon. I'm definately saving your thread so when I do mine, I'll have all the info right there. Thanks again Danny
 
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