Where to start

TALYN

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Ok, so I go to start my Busa for work, put the key in turn it and nothing..... checked the battery and it has 12.1 volts, with the key in the on position if I push the start button the oil pressure light barely illuminates.... any ideas/suggestions and if I have to take it to the dealer do I need to remove the PC111 so as to not void the warranty?
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Well.....crap. I would start by swapping the battery anyway, eliminate that as the culprit, maybe pull it and let it charge for a day. Then check the harness near the PC3 and near the battery for loose connections, etc. I would pull the PC3 out if you are gonna let the dealer look at it.



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Have you checked the neutral safety switch on the kickstand? Can it be push started? I had a starter button get some debris in it and it wouldn't work until i took it apart and cleaned the connections inside. I would check the kill switch also to see if it has failed before you take it in for service.
 
Start with the simple things and wok your way up. Is the kill switch in the run position? Are the battery connections tight? Did you load test the battery or just get a static reading?
 
Get your battery charged and load tested. 12.1 Volts will not necessarily start or even turn over the engine. A fully charged battery will read over 12.4 or 12.5 and more volts. If your battery is new and started the bike normally in the past couple days I would think that the culprit is a loose connection that will pass enough current to light your gauges but not enough to spin the starter. Maybe something has worked itself loose since it probably hasn't been too long since the bike was set up. How does you fuel pump sound when you turn the key and the kill switch is on? It should sound strong and reach full pressure quickly.
 
Get your battery charged and load tested. 12.1 Volts will not necessarily start or even turn over the engine. A fully charged battery will read over 12.4 or 12.5 and more volts. If your battery is new and started the bike normally in the past couple days I would think that the culprit is a loose connection that will pass enough current to light your gauges but not enough to spin the starter. Maybe something has worked itself loose since it probably hasn't been too long since the bike was set up. How does you fuel pump sound when you turn the key and the kill switch is on? It should sound strong and reach full pressure quickly.
If your readings are correct then it must be the battery as I get no life on the fuel pump, guage lights, horn - clicks barely, with the key on, but if I push the starter button the oil pressure light will slightly illuminate...

I had to lay it down the other day to avoid a t bone situation so the battery might have gotten jarred to hard, maybe plates touched???
 
I could be your clutch switch. Under neath your clutch lever there should be a wire, pull it and bridge the 2 metal connections with anything. (I normally use needle nose pliers) Then try to start your bike as normal. If it starts then you can pull the bridge out and ride away.
 
I just re read the 12.1 volts. You got a cheesed battery man. You might be able to to push start that though.
 
Sounds like dead battery, Possibly turned the key too far and left the parking lights on?

Yes, I've done that "ONCE" before
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Not to be a smart a$$ but did you use FINE-C? (Sorry I’m a MSF instructor)
Fuel
Ignition
Neutral
ENGINE CUT OFF SWITH umh?
Clutch
 
start with simple things like everyone else has said. Battery connections. since you laid it down make sure battery did not leak.
 
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