The length of the adapter that threads into the spark plug hole for the compression tester does matter. For accurate readings you need to fill the spark plug hole to the same depth as the spark plug. Anything less increases the volumes of the combustion chamber and will lower your readings. However, the uniformity of the readings (assuming they are not ridiculously low) is more improtant than the absolute value of the individual readings. Compression tester gauges are notorious for being widely different from gauge manufacturer to manufacturer. Make sure you have a charged battery, hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine over many times until you get a stable reading. I normally do this on a cold engine and them again on the engine at operating temp.. Watch the gauge while you are cranking the engine, the pressure should not drop between strokes or else in means the check valve in the gauge is leaking and your readings will be inaccurate. When you put the spark plugs back in, put a little antisieze compound on the threads and use a torque wrench to tighten them.
A compression test is an OK method to get a quick indication of the health of the rings and valves. A better way is to use a leak down test. The leak down test applies compressed air to the combustion chamber and tells you the percentage of leaking you have across the piston rings and valves. It allows you to listen for the source of the leak.
What weight oil are you using? How did the spark plugs look when you removed them, brown color and dry or black and wet? What kind of riding have you been doing, lot's of WOT runs, lots of extended high RPMs or cruising? A small amount of oil ( oil film in the area right around the crankcase hose connection) is normal. Keep an eye on you oil consumption over many miles (1000 miles minimum), that will tell you if you have problem or not without looking inside the airbox for oil.
Jim