powdercoating factory rearsets

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Im about to powdercoat a bunch of stuff and am wondering if the factory rearsets have to be done with low temp or can they be done with normal powder because of the rubber bushings. Im using a wet black powdercoat and if i go low temp gloss black its going to look different from the swingarm and other pieces. The powder calls for 10 mins @ 400 degrees. Anybody with experience i greatly appreciate the help. I tried contacting a sponsor a while ago but they told me to go find a forum, they werent in the business to give advice.
 
I did both my bikes regular at the local powdercoat place. I don't know what temps they use but they do industrial stuff.
 
I removed my bushing.. why are you set on leaving them in? Hint.... preheat the rear sets in the oven at 350f for 35 mins then spray em 15 mins after the flow procesz starts.
 
If you do it half azz and leave the rubber bushings in and dont follow the 400 flow temp the powder wont adhere very well and will begin to come off in time with wear
 
lankeeyankee said:
If you do it half azz and leave the rubber bushings in and dont follow the 400 flow temp the powder wont adhere very well and will begin to come off in time with wear
Click to expand...

I disagree with this statement. I did my own with the home powder coating kit (forget the name now), left the bushings in and they were in a home oven at 350 degrees. They are still looking new after 30K miles and I don't foresee any problems with them anytime soon. We also did a couple of others friends pieces to include about 75 different bits altogether and each are holding up just fine.

The oven was bought off Craigslist for $15 and put in my buddies garage, do not use the same oven you use to prepare food.
 
lankeeyankee said:
Who are you buying your powder from?
Click to expand...

I am not too sure who this question was directed to, but if it was me then the link below is where we got our powder/gun from. As I mentioned above, it worked great and the guy that owns the powder gun has since moved to northern WI and has had salt and road grime on his powder coated pieces and they still look good.

Not everyone may have the same results, these are just mine. This was our first venture into the powder coating area, and we did it in his garage over a couple of days and quite a few beers.

Powder Coating Equipment - Powder Coat Paint Colors - Powdercoating Gun
 
I left mine in only because I didn't want to mess anything up trying to push them out.
I had it done at a powder coat shop and mine are fine.
 
i left mine in, they didn't melt.....:thumbsup:

Powdercoat.jpg
 
thanks guys i wasnt sure about pressing them out when i started too it started flexing the rear set and no i didnt have the press on the actual rearset lol. So i guess ill just have them coated with them in with the normal powdercoat unless someone else kicks in with a dam good reason not to haha
 
Just powder coat the weights as well. I did mine and you cannot even tell they are there. I did all all the bolt heads and screw heads that you can see too. Everything came out nice and I am still pleased with the results to this day.
 
Sous said:
Just powder coat the weights as well. I did mine and you cannot even tell they are there. I did all all the bolt heads and screw heads that you can see too. Everything came out nice and I am still pleased with the results to this day.
Click to expand...

how is tightening down the bolts after powdercoating them?
 
It is fine if you take the proper precautions for the bolts and threads. For example, for the bolts/screws/washers that I wanted to powder coat I laid them on some tin foil, then wrapped that around the grill for the oven. Then you charge the tin foil which in turn charges the pieces and the powder sticks to them. Then you bake them and let them cool and now you have nice color coated pieces for around the bike. You poke the bolts through the tin foil, so the threads are protected and do not get coated. Also, you can use rubber stoppers to cover up holes that are threaded so you don't have to clean them out with a thread tool.

I did just about everything on the bike that I could get to. I did not do the stator cover bolts and the rear brake master cylinder, other than that I did everything else.
 
awesome thanks, im paying to have my rims and swingarm done but im doing all my small stuff, im building a big oven but one of our parts we ordered is on back order and i need it done now so i went out and bought a small oven a while ago to do all the small stuff. I appreciate the advice im new to this but willing to try anything
 
I got a roll of tape they use and taped off holes and threads on screws so there wouldnt be any problems on reassembly. The holes on the heads of Allen head bolts became smaller from material and I use a piece of tin foil wrapped around one size smaller Allen wrench to take them out or put back in. The weights and all were disassembled.

Before...
cf135533.jpg


And after...
8275686c.jpg


On the shifter there are little plastic rotator cups inside the joints and these I was worried about melting so I used Rustoleum satin black on it. Two years later it still is hard and stable. This is on a shifter that gets booted everytime all the time while riding. Here's a link to thread I did on the Rustoleum.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...t-oleum-satin-excellent-rattlecan-things.html

And pic of shifter...
c53a8799.jpg
 
I used rattle can on my rear brake with no issues. It's protected by the rearset.
 
im annoyed now i cant get the recessed screw out of the weights the other one comes out easily but that one not so much
 
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