HID and Modulator install notes

spotrot

Registered
I compiled the many useful notes from the forum about these installs in a previous (long) post,
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/electrical-mods/144531-hid-my-decision-tree-long-post.html

Now I’ve completed the install and discovered a number of items that may be useful to those installing either HID or modulator or both.

My Plan
Low beam: HID with delay
High beam: Modulator (note that the HID low beam is on along with Hi beam)
Daytime: Hi beam is the stock bulb with modulator (and HID low beam is on too)
Night w/ traffic: Low beam HID
Night w/o traffic: Low beam HID plus stock High beam (modulator turns off automatically)

I ordered:
Headlight modulator, $65 w/s Buy Now: Lighting modules for Motorcycles - Headlight Modulator, Back Off, Diamond Star | Pashnit Moto
DEI 528T timed relay $13 w/s eBay
HID kit 35W w/H7 bulb, 4,500 from DDM, $44 w/s see notes on ordering below

All parts arrived quickly and were fine. The DDM HID kit did have two bulbs and two ballasts (I don’t know how they can do it for $44).

Disassembly notes: I removed windshield (2 screws), the L & R textured black panels that abut the gauge cluster (total 3 screws and 2 clips), and the gauge cluster (two bolts). Another forum post said to remove the trim panel from the gauge cluster. I did this thinking there were more screws underneath it. This is not needed nor advised. After removing the two bolts at the bottom of the gauge cluster, the cluster just pulls out of two rubber grommets at its top.

Modulator install: The Diamond Star modulator has several features I didn’t care about so that simplified my wiring. I installed it on the high beam (which is the lower lamp). I spliced the black wire into the black headlight wire. I cut the yellow headlight wire and connected the modulator’s red wire to the harness side and its white wire to the bulb side. I chose to solder, tape and heat shrink but I’m sure wire nuts would be just fine. I ran the photocell down by the radiator and tied off with black tie strap. The photocell needs to be well exposed or it will think it’s nighttime and stop the modulator.

HID install. The DDM kit has no separate igniter, just a ballast. Note that the power harness can be plugged into the ballast in either direction (the designer or supplier failed engineering 101). If the harness is inserted so that the safety clip is to the outside of the ballast, the blue wire will be the 12V positive (hot) and the black the 12V negative (ground).

I mounted the ballast to the right intake duct with 3M weatherstrip adhesive and tie straps. I trimmed the flimsy rubber grommet off the HID bulb harness (but not carefully enough - I cut a wire on one). The HID bulb housing is much thinner than the stock bulb housing and therefore was barely held in place by the spring clip. The kit included a cylindrical black plastic spacer that was the right height, so I used a Dremmel bit to cut out the end portion to allow room for the bulb’s back end. I inserted the HID bulb, then the trimmed spacer and snapped the wire spring clip in place - worked fine. I sealed any air gaps with silicone to prevent rain or dew from getting inside the headlight assembly as others have done. (I hope there’s a vent to allow air to escape when the HID heats up.)

Timer install. The DDM kit HID install is plug and play -- IF a timer is not installed. My only caution is that the male spade connectors on the DDM kit seemed thinner than the stock connectors and did not fit tightly into the stock headlight connector. Zoinks HID install post has a timer wiring diagram and excellent pictures. I tested and used a simpler means of wiring the timer however. I connected all three black wires (ballast, timer, and trigger) together and plugged them into the black wire side of the busa harness connector - no need to separately ground any wires to the frame. Then I connected the timer’s red and yellow together and plugged them into the white wire side of the busa harness connector. Finally, just stripped and connected the timer orange to the ballast blue. Prior to this, I trimmed the timer’s wires to about 6 inches and zip tied it to the left rear of the steel supports for the gauge cluster. I also sealed the two open holes on the timer.

Assembly note: Inspect the screws to see if any are of different length. On my 04, the screw attaching the R & L side panels in the center had a longer shoulder than the others.

'Hope this makes the job a little easier for others.:beerchug:
 
Good write up man i love informative articles like this and come spring it may be handy when i go to install my hids:beerchug:
 
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