sweet tea man
Registered
2006 model, 11k miles, stock chain. How much slack am I supposed to have when tightened? 1/2"? 3/4"?
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device
chain slack question
- Thread starter sweet tea man
- Start date
p. 39 of service manual: http://www.servicemanualsgsxr.com/1300/Suzuki_GSX-R_1300_Hayabusa_1999-2000.pdf
p. 33 of owner's manual: http://www.servicemanualsgsxr.com/1300/Suzuki_GSX-R_1300_Hayabusa_1999-2007_Owner_Manual.pdf
p. 33 of owner's manual: http://www.servicemanualsgsxr.com/1300/Suzuki_GSX-R_1300_Hayabusa_1999-2007_Owner_Manual.pdf
Last edited:
Better to be on the slack side rather than the tight side.
I have a very simple way to set sag. I adjust the chain so I can take my forefinger and push up on the lower run somewhere close to the middle. If I can touch the chain to the swingarm at midpoint without exerting excessive pressure, it's perfect!
Also keep in mind when you tighten the axle it will also tighten the chain a little. I have no idea why, it just works that way!
I have a very simple way to set sag. I adjust the chain so I can take my forefinger and push up on the lower run somewhere close to the middle. If I can touch the chain to the swingarm at midpoint without exerting excessive pressure, it's perfect!
Also keep in mind when you tighten the axle it will also tighten the chain a little. I have no idea why, it just works that way!
When we are changing tires at the track, which we do a lot, we have a quick easy method that many guys use.
Use a phillips screwdriver with a round shank or any sort of metal rod about the size of a pencil. Place the screwdriver between the rear sprocket and chain then roll the rear wheel backwards until the screwdriver is at the one oclock position. At this point the chain should be tight. If the screwdriver goes past he one oclock position the chain should be tightened until the screwdriver is at the one oclock position. Once adjusted properly, leave the screwdriver in the sprocket and keep tension on the chain while you tighten the axle nut. This keeps the adjuster blocks squeezed up tight against the adjustment bolts. Remove the screwdriver and she's all done with a properly adjusted chain.
This method works much better if the chain guard is removed. Chain guard removal is always my first mod on all chain driven bikes.
Use a phillips screwdriver with a round shank or any sort of metal rod about the size of a pencil. Place the screwdriver between the rear sprocket and chain then roll the rear wheel backwards until the screwdriver is at the one oclock position. At this point the chain should be tight. If the screwdriver goes past he one oclock position the chain should be tightened until the screwdriver is at the one oclock position. Once adjusted properly, leave the screwdriver in the sprocket and keep tension on the chain while you tighten the axle nut. This keeps the adjuster blocks squeezed up tight against the adjustment bolts. Remove the screwdriver and she's all done with a properly adjusted chain.
This method works much better if the chain guard is removed. Chain guard removal is always my first mod on all chain driven bikes.
Twist The Throttle
Registered
+1 on the above method.
You can also use the screw driver on the bottom at the 5 o'clock position.
You can also use the screw driver on the bottom at the 5 o'clock position.
Similar threads
