Suspension (Fork) adjustment tip of the day

Tufbusa

Track Coach / TufPoodle Coach
Registered
As most of us sit by the fire on these mid-winter days when the sun (If it's not covered with clouds) rises late and hides behind the horizon early with our bikes tucked safely into a warm garage and that luscious cup of java in hand, like a lost lover we ponder over those wonderful days of summers gone by. Like you, I regularly wipe the dust from my favorite two wheel steed as if she was a graceful lover built for speed as well as endurance. Yes indeed, we do love our two wheel companions with loyalty of a family member!

Since most of us have time on our hands that we would prefer to spend on hot asphalt, I thought I would share a tip I learned some time ago. To most of us the term "Suspension" is a Greek word meaing "Confusion"! I will admit, suspension tuning is an area that can be very intimidating.

The forks that come on your busa or gixxer are really quite remarkable. They work quite well for most riders with a wide range of adjustments quite capable of accomodating a rider from 140 - 200 pounds. Over 200 pounds and heavier springs are recommended for the agressive pilot. Without using up excessive space with words, this is my point. Our goal is to make the forks use the entire stroke without bottoming out. Since we sometimes find ourselves in a position that 1.0 springs are a bit soft and 1.05 springs are to firm, you can install a 1.0 spring in one fork and a 1.05 spring in the opposite fork ending up with the equivilance of 1.025. The point being, it's not mandatory to have the same weight spring in both forks.

This same theory works just as well and more often used with compression and rebound adjustments. The most noticeable difference in your OEM compression/rebound valves and aftermarket valving is the fine tuning ability. Many times you'll find your OEM valves seem to make a big step from one click to the next. An example is when you find 10 clicks of compression is not enough but 11 clicks is a bit to much, you can fine tune by adjusting one fork to 10 and the opposite fork to 11 clicks. Works on compression and rebound as well.

The best advise I can share with those of you who find suspension intimidating is don't be afraid to play with those suspension adjustments. Just be sure to check all the adjustment settings and write them down before you start so you can always go back to where you started if you get confused. A great way to begin your suspension adventure is to pick up a copy of Andrew Trevitt's book "Sportbike Suspension Tuning"! Andrew did a wonderful job of explaining how suspension works as well as how to go about adjustments. Lots of photos and illustrations to get his point across.

Winter is a great time to dig into the art of suspension tuning. The better you understand suspension the better rider you will become! As your skills develope you will constantly find the need for upgrading the suspension settings. It's a stair step event, one step up in skill followed by one step up in suspension tune. A rule of thumb for track junkies is three second steps. Trip three seconds off your lap time and it's time to change the suspension settings!

Spring will be here soon enough so make good use of this down time by giving yourself a suspension tune up as well as the bike! The more you know and understand about your bike the more fun it becomes.

Merry Christmas,
SteveO
 
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That's certainly thinking between the clicks~!~

Most of us suspension gurus (NOT) would never have thought about adjusting them differently side to side, but makes sense
 
Thank you for that, Steven! Perfect timing as I disassemble the forks on my Superbyke project and install 1.0 springs and new fluid. Although I'm a 200 pounder, I think the massive weight I've shaved from the bike itself will make the Race Tech 1.0's pretty appropriate overall. (my other Busa has 1.1's and is great for both loaded up sport touring AND track use, it's a little heavier, however, about 496 with 2 gallons fuel).
I think this black thing (Superbyke) should be in the 475 lbs range.
BTW, do you have any opinions on fork oil! Doesn't lighter weight allow for a more responsive system? (given that all else is dialed in properly)
Again, thanks for bringing this subject up. Doyle

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Since I improved 6 seconds at Barber this last time, I guess that requires two new tunings! Of course, still have no freakin clue how or how to communicate what the bike's doing :banghead:
 
BTW, do you have any opinions on fork oil! Doesn't lighter weight allow for a more responsive system? (given that all else is dialed in properly)
Again, thanks for bringing this subject up. Doyle

Your forks come with 5wt oil which works very well for year around use, especially if you ride in chilly weather. The rebound on suzuki forks are always a little weak so I use 7wt to add a bit more rebound. I rarely ever ride in temps below 50 degrees and if I do it's just a gentle cruise so I don't get excited about the thicker oil. Some of my friends run 10wt and it works just fine during race season when the temps are usually 70 or above.

Since I improved 6 seconds at Barber this last time, I guess that requires two new tunings! Of course, still have no freakin clue how or how to communicate what the bike's doing :banghead:

Your bike is set up just fine until you reach the A group. At that point you'll need to start paying attention to the suspension and fine tune accordingly for your particular needs.

If the suspension is set up with a base line you'll do just fine until you begin to out ride the suspension someplace in the upper scale of the B group or lower A group. At that point you should begin to play with the suspension to keep the performance up with the rider's skill level.

As you become faster and faster the more you will demand from the suspension and proper setup becomes much more important.
 
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When you start to shred the rear tire, push or plow the front, bottom out the forks etc, you are due for a suspension tune.
 
I got the nerve to dink with the Busa suspension my last session out this year. What I found was that cranking down the preload a bit helped the front end nose dive problem into turn 5 at Barber and helped ease the transition from braking to entering the turn. Read through several ways to adjust laden sag and finally tried it and liked the results. Ran two days with better confidence entering and traversing through tough turns. With the GSXR 1K for next year it is start over time for me. I'll set it up for factory settings since I am a light weight and start again from there. Can't wait!
 
Maybe you got that kinda time. All I have time for is fuel and road rinse an repeat often. I am pretty sure one of my forks has no fluid in it :whistle: No need to adjust it :laugh:
 
Sag is important with on and off road bike's. Changing the height of the rear will throw off rake and trail. Very little but degree's make a difference here. Lowering the rear would push the fork's out like you slid them down in the clamp's. Raising the rear would have the oppisite effect making it like you raised them. I allway's start with the compresson very soft and tighten it up as I go. If the bike bottom's you could add a click or two untill it stop's bottoming. It's eaiser to tell a bike is too soft than too firm.
 
I got the nerve to dink with the Busa suspension my last session out this year. What I found was that cranking down the preload a bit helped the front end nose dive problem into turn 5 at Barber and helped ease the transition from braking to entering the turn. Read through several ways to adjust laden sag and finally tried it and liked the results. Ran two days with better confidence entering and traversing through tough turns. With the GSXR 1K for next year it is start over time for me. I'll set it up for factory settings since I am a light weight and start again from there. Can't wait!

Charlie, if your bike is diving on the brakes, add a click or two of compression at a time until you get the dive under control. You'll have much better success with compression than preload for solving that problem.

By the way, congrats on your gixxer, what a beauty! :thumbsup:
 
Turn 5 (the 180) at Barber was my biggest problem and tightening up the front end a bit seemed to help. I don't know enough to get much past adjusting the front so that it doesn't bottom out.

Thanks!

Charlie, if your bike is diving on the brakes, add a click or two of compression at a time until you get the dive under control. You'll have much better success with compression than preload for solving that problem.

By the way, congrats on your gixxer, what a beauty! :thumbsup:
 
Adding preload will assist in preventing bottoming out but also add compression. Adding Compression will slow the flow of oil through the valve thus slowing the dive as the forks compress.
 
Turn 5 (the 180) at Barber was my biggest problem and tightening up the front end a bit seemed to help. I don't know enough to get much past adjusting the front so that it doesn't bottom out.

Thanks!

I'm not fond of that turn at all. I'm better to the right than the left to begin with, then add the braking zone being down hill and that turn being a double apex. Very technical and a handful on the Busa.
 
1 of: Sportbike Suspension Tuning [Paperback]
By: Andrew Trevitt
Condition: New
Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC

Done, I needed this thread. Good read after chopping firewood,
Thanks SteveO!!!
Now which mods to do this winter...hhmm.
 
1 of: Sportbike Suspension Tuning [Paperback]
By: Andrew Trevitt
Condition: New
Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC

Done, I needed this thread. Good read after chopping firewood,
Thanks SteveO!!!
Now which mods to do this winter...hhmm.

You will learn a great deal from Andrew's book. Now keep it by the pooper in the bathroom and read a few pages every day. I found I learned more the second or third time I read it. Illistrations are great. Expecially in the chapter about springs and how sag works.

Enjoy!
 
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