Is this an overlooked check in maintenance~?~

[outlawbusa]

Do you include regular brake fluid flush/changes in with your normal maintenance intervals~?~

If so, how often~?~

I have a concern about using specialized racing fluids (about $15 a pint), and that is unless I keep the bottle on the shelf it's hard to purchase the same thing each time and a flush is needed since I understand you are not supposed to mix fluids...anyway, what's your input...

 

[Nicholas]

i think im slacking in this department. i change mine twice a year..

 

[DaCol.]

I use OEM DOT 4 and change it every 2 years, which is what the manual requires. I always have had the idea that the guy who designed my bike and it's systems know alot more about it's needs than I do. Doing this I have NEVER had any problems. Of course I don't SLAM on the Brakes or do any racing with it. My opinion, you'll need brake pads before you need fluid. Really Street needs and Racing needs are close, but not the same. So, you need to design your maintance around your riding type

 

[outlawbusa]

I use OEM DOT 4 and change it every 2 years, which is what the manual requires.

These things come with a manual~?~ ::11

 

[Nicholas]

lol, i guess i over do mine who is manuel ???

 

[S4L]

These things come with a manual~?~ ::11

 

[mysql]

I wouldn't use racing brake fluids in a street vehicle. They're designed to be switched out frequently. Going 2 years with them would not be ideal.

 

[ogre]

if you're racing, your maintenance intervals should reflect that.

 

[outlawbusa]

"Racing Fluids" They're designed to be switched out frequently. Going 2 years with them would not be ideal.

That's exactly the unspoken rules and type of knowledge I'm hoping to pull out here~!~

 

[sixpack577]

If you consider that if the brake system is working properly with no leaks, the system is sealed. The only moisture inside is the small amount that develops from the humidity in the air trapped when you put the top on the master cylinder; hopefully most of this bled out also. The only thing left to consider is the heat from the caliper. The heat the fluid picks up would cause it to break down over time. How long that takes to happen is the question, no? Bike/car manufacture's, as well as the companies that make replacemant parts, fluids, ect. all seem to set there maintenance intervals conservatively. It's part of the "cover your own ass" idea (which makes good sense) as well as keeping you buying their products and hopefully paying for maintenance more frequently.
Suzuki says two years to replace the brake fluid. How many bikes (belonging to others or bought used) have we ridden that have had little to no upkeep over many years, that still function fine? Alot. I do change the oil every 3000, antifreeze every year, and will change brake fluid every couple years. If you race, just go with the flow, as most racers change everything out during the off season anyway.
Brake fluid's so cheap and easy to change it's all up to what makes you comfortable. Don't overthink it, it's a nice 30ish windy day...go for a ride

 

[mestona]

My opinion, you'll need brake pads before you need fluid.

Depends on how much you ride, brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs moisture from the atmosphere). Replace it when it looks dark. The more humid/rainy the area you live in the more frequent the interval.

 

[djsin]

my shoes tend to get worn out rapidly....how does fred flinstone manage to keep his foot wear so new

 

[AJAY]

You are to be commended for thinking about this, as it is one bit of maintenance that most owners skip. Even if the system is filled, it's not really "sealed" and the fluid will pick up water from the atmosphere. The two year change rule is pretty conservative, but it's cheap insurance.

 

[sixpack577]

You are to be commended for thinking about this, as it is one bit of maintenance that most owners skip. Even if the system is filled, it's not really "sealed" and the fluid will pick up water from the atmosphere. The two year change rule is pretty conservative, but it's cheap insurance.

If a brake system wasn't sealed, it would require frequent bleeding. As it would be sucking in air, and therefore, moisture. It's only the amount of moisture that's trapped in there from having the system open for any reason(bleeding, line change, fluid change, ect.) It would be almost impossible to remove the small amount of moisture that's trapped in there. Most will bleed out, very little will remain.

 

[AJAY]

If a brake system wasn't sealed, it would require frequent bleeding. As it would be sucking in air, and therefore, moisture. It's only the amount of moisture that's trapped in there from having the system open for any reason(bleeding, line change, fluid change, ect.) It would be almost impossible to remove the small amount of moisture that's trapped in there. Most will bleed out, very little will remain.

I understand your point, but speak from experience. I have seen plenty of milky brake fluid and more than a few corroded up brake cylinders over the years. YMMV

 

[sixpack577]

I understand your point, but speak from experience. I have seen plenty of milky brake fluid and more than a few corroded up brake cylinders over the years. YMMV

So have I, the corrosion is the culpret, that's what's allowed the air/moisture to get in. And what's YMMV?

 

[AJAY]

So have I, the corrosion is the culpret, that's what's allowed the air/moisture to get in. And what's YMMV?

Corrosion is the result of moisture in the brake fluid, not the cause. This is one reason I've always liked the silicone fluid Harley uses, except it's not as "stiff" a fluid as ethylene glycol, and silicone is a definite no-no for the seals in a Busa.

Your Mileage May Vary

 

[sixpack577]

Corrosion is the result of moisture in the brake fluid, not the cause. This is one reason I've always liked the silicone fluid Harley uses, except it's not as "stiff" a fluid as ethylene glycol, and silicone is a definite no-no for the seals in a Busa.

Your Mileage May Vary

I was referring to corrosion on the outside allowing moisture to get in. I've yet to see a properly bled and sealed system's fluid turn color from moisture alone. A small amount of condensation on the rubber seal, yes, discolored fluid from years of heat cycles, yes. But if it's discolored from water vapor, the system developed a leak at some point, or wasn't bled correctly from the begining.
It is amazing the places that water can get into, but if it's constantly slowly coming in, then your brakes will be becoming noticeably worse because of it over time.

 

[AJAY]

I was referring to corrosion on the outside allowing moisture to get in. I've yet to see a properly bled and sealed system's fluid turn color from moisture alone. A small amount of condensation on the rubber seal, yes, discolored fluid from years of heat cycles, yes. But if it's discolored from water vapor, the system developed a leak at some point, or wasn't bled correctly from the begining.
It is amazing the places that water can get into, but if it's constantly slowly coming in, then your brakes will be becoming noticeably worse because of it over time.

You raise good points. I do know that all brands of glycol fluid tell you to throw away (ok, recycle) the bottle if it has been opened. It seems it doesn't take much moisture to contaminate the stuff!

 

[sixpack577]

You raise good points. I do know that all brands of glycol fluid tell you to throw away (ok, recycle) the bottle if it has been opened. It seems it doesn't take much moisture to contaminate the stuff!

You're right, it doesn't take much. We're being too scientific anyway, if we could solve the problem, we'de save what? $5 on a bottle of brake fluid.