Frame Sliders, Cut or No Cut

you will get a 50/50 % split in opinion on this topic (which has already been repeatedly discussed here).

I did not want to cut my fairing so I went with the NO-CUT. You will hear others chime in that NO-CUTs do not work but there are a few owners here who wil say so otherwise (based on actual crash test results).

Plus on a really bad crash, sliders can only do so much (cut or no-cut). Bottomline...any slider is better than NONE (ask the guys who've had driveway tip overs).

sample pic of the T-Rex holding up (definitely NOT just a tip over) from this thread: https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene.../73717-t-rex-racing-no-cut-frame-sliders.html

205181d1288267110-t-rex-racing-no-cut-frame-sliders-bike-crash-005.jpg
 
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I chose the do-cut sliders. I think they are effective and look better than what I've seen for no-cuts, but that's just my opinion.
 
kromdom said:
you will get a 50/50 % split in opinion on this topic (which has already been repeatedly discussed here).

I did not want to cut my fairing so I went with the NO-CUT. You will hear others chime in that NO-CUTs do not work but there are a few owners here who wil say so otherwise (based on actual crash test results).

Plus on a really bad crash, sliders can only do so much (cut or no-cut). Bottomline...any slider is better than NONE (ask the guys who've had driveway tip overs).
Click to expand...

My bike was a tip over bike when I bought it. I just ordered a new oem fairing.
 
had the driveway tip over the second day of ownership, got lucky and no damage was done other than a slight scuff on mirror. Did tons of research on no-cuts, many say they're junk and will cause more damage than good in a slide (some say they will take out the radiator bc of the crossbrace), but many others have them and like them. Have seen a few posts on here where people laid the bike down with no cuts, and every one looked like they held up well. I also went with trex no cuts and am very happy with them, i sent the posts to travis and had them powdercoated black to blend in better
 
I would surely go for the cut ones and my friend can custom them.I prefer 4 inches both side,when tip over there wont be any damage.It definetely lighter than the T-rex uncut sliders
 
To Mr Felt:
The ebay no cuts you have linked are not the same as the no-cuts in the 2nd post.

Either the No cuts like the 2nd post or the cut ones are the best route. I'd lean toward cutting the fairings as being the best. However the No-cuts but Benelux are a great. T-Rex copied them and should be fine although they don't fit the Gen II bikes correctly. They did mod the design for clearance but they still are not pefect.
I did not want to cut my fairings so I have the Benelux on my bike.

The cheap no cut in your links attaches to the small fairing bolts. Stay away from these.

None will make your plastic survive. They will help in 0-50mph lay downs. Even a 0mph drop will likely scratch your plastic with either. However there should be way less damage.

Choice is up to you if you want to cut or not, but get the correct no-cut that mounts to the motor mount bolts if you go that route.
 
I went with the Shogun S5 Carbon cut sliders after a lot of thought. I was really only after a little tip over protection, because frankly, if I go down at speed I don't want the bike back. That's what insurance is for.

I don't care for the look of the T-Rex and the fact that they have to cut/notch the stem to make it clear the fairing. But that's just my opinion.

Take your time with a Dremel and you will be happy with the results. They blend in very well and most people think it's factory.

Shogun Motorsports Carbon S5 Frame Sliders Suzuki :: New Enough
 
Yes, you will need to remove them to remove the fairing. Only remove one side at a time and use a torque wrench to reinstall since they bolt to the motor mount.

Once you've had the plastics off once or twice it's no big deal. Watch the vids posted by Blanca for tips.
 
Part of the issue with cut sliders is getting the hole cut in the correct place and having a perfectly round hole.
What is the best method for marking the spot and cutting the hole?
I've enlarged holes before with my Dremel before but the hole was no where near round. I just ordered a new right fairing $575.00 and I don't want to
do one of my hack jobs.
 
I would rather spend money on this insurance over installing either frame-slider option.
60-0270LB350.jpg

icon2.gif
Suzuki Hayabusa/B-King - all - www.woodcraft-cfm.com

Anyone that has had their pot-metal stator cover ground down to the crank knows how absolutely important this cover is.

Is it AMAZING to me how many here focus more on the frame slider option over having this type of stator cover. I would rather know I had to buy four new OEM panels than to have to break down my engine as the only option and find that my crankshaft is destroyed.
 
When you order the Shoguns you can also order an alignment bolt, or make it yourself their instructions tell you how.

Remove the fairing and motor mount bolt (one side at a time).

Install the alignment bolt.

Put the fairing on and press against the bolt. It will make a dent in the foam insulation on the inside of the fairing.

Place blue painters tape on the painted side of the fairing and drill a pilot hole. Cut the excess insulation away from the hole.

Reinstall the fairing with the motor mount bolt still removed and begin to enlarge the hole.

Use the slider with the new bolt stuck through it as a gauge for the hole size. Continue to place it through the hole in the fairing into the mount until you have a nice close fit, that doesn't rub.

Use a dremel with a larger sized sanding wheel to help make a rounder hole.

It's not hard to do, the key is to take your time...
 
I just installed my shogun CUT sliders. I got my knowledge through Youtube, and with my steady hand and patience it came out perfect. It looked like it roled out the factory!
 
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