Exhaust removing
- Thread starter Martin.UK
- Start date
+1 spray between the header and block, but given the downward angle of the bolt you won't be able to get any to seep down into the threads. Surface rust is normal too, don't panic...yet
. Should a bolt head break there may be enough of the threads sticking out to get vice grips on. If that should happen, a quick heating around(not on)the seized stud with a handheld propane torch can help. The idea is to heat the head(not glowing hot)just enough that it expands before the fastener, making it easier to remove.If that would not work, any good machine shop should be able to remove it on the bike, there IS enough room to work there.
That's worst case though. Also, use an allen socket instead of an allen wrench. Tap the socket with a hammer, a few good hits will also help free up a seized bolt. As well as tapping the ratchet or breaker bar as you try to turn it loose, if it doesn't want to move. Be careful to keep the socket squared in the bolt so not to strip it out too. Good luck, and they'll probably all come out fine.
Cookie
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Liquid Wrench!
Do you have all panels and radiator removed? This way you can get a decent "arm" on each of those seized or nasty bolts. You want to get square on them and then use a break bar to get that bolt to SNAP free. With the Liquid Wrench, one might break free easier than the others, but it will certainly make removal easier than normal. The heat option is always a great fall back. Sounds like you have the rad out already from our previous conversations about a rad?? Yes?
Do you have all panels and radiator removed? This way you can get a decent "arm" on each of those seized or nasty bolts. You want to get square on them and then use a break bar to get that bolt to SNAP free. With the Liquid Wrench, one might break free easier than the others, but it will certainly make removal easier than normal. The heat option is always a great fall back. Sounds like you have the rad out already from our previous conversations about a rad?? Yes?
teddypenn
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Bruce Bell
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warm engine, not so hot you can't work on it but really warm.
Busa_Powered
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Sabrina????
Martin.UK
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well i got the exhaust off today. 6 of the header bolts came out ok. and 2 of them i had to weld my best allen key to the bolt as it was that rusty it rounded inside. then the bolt that held the mid of the system to the underside snapped off.
so i now need to get a new Radiator, new oil cooler and new exhaust system as my link pipes have gone. so its a good time to fit a 4 into 1. and replace all the rusty bolts.
so i now need to get a new Radiator, new oil cooler and new exhaust system as my link pipes have gone. so its a good time to fit a 4 into 1. and replace all the rusty bolts.
Martin.UK
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thats the name i gave my busa. i name it after my late alsatian which died in late 2006. which i felt was a nice way to keep her memory alive for me.
Start the bike, let it come up to full operating temperature. Shut it off and let it cool down to were it is warm (about 10-15 minutes), then try and remove the bolts. Do not spray liquid wrench on a hot engine (especially the head or headers!), or before you start it to warm it up. Use those sprays on a cold engine only and as a last resort.
My 2-cents
P.
My 2-cents
P.
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