Ceramic Coating

DaCol.

D' Colonel
Donating Member
Anyone use ceramic coating on their exhaust :;): . And if so, DOES IT WORK ??? ? I have some club members who have but because of price and ego's :goodboy: , I'am not so sure THEY would tell me if it works as great as they say. Kinda like, there is no way I don't like this (after I spent :duh: a bundle on getting it done) coating.

Be Honest :rulez: ,

Does it work and how well. Can you really feel a difference in heat transmission ?

Would you do it again, or will you do it on you NEXT BIKE ?
 
are you referring to the rattle can coatings or a professionaly done coating? The pro coatings work :bowdown: The rattle can method would help but if the prep work isn't done right it will flake off eventualy.
 
there's a noticable reduction of radiant heat with a pro coat. For that little extra in performance I would do it. If my bike was ridden often in very hot weather with low air flow, I would do it. The busa puts out alot of heat and on a hot day sitting in stop n go traffic I would want the exhaust coating. At that point anything to reduce the level of heat between your legs is a plus in my book. Remeber that the engine radiats alot of heat as well so coating the exhaust isn't going to eliminate all the heat.
 
On many of the race cars I am around they use jet hot coatings...there is the silver, blk, and a copper looking color. What is nice about them is if you get the inside and outside of the part coated they will recoat it for free under waranty...you have to pay shipping. Having the coating does make a difference.
 
If done properly ceramic coating will work very well in heat transfer, that is for sure
 
Thanks Guys, I am looking at doing this to my 998 Duc since it is really HOT at stop lights in the summer. Some of the Club guys said it worked on their 1098's and 848's, but Duc guys and gals are kinda like Porsche people. PROBLEMS just don't exist :laugh: , or they're just minor ones :whistle: .

So, I guess this winter it will be Coating time so I can prevent next years RUMP ROAST two step at the Stop Lights :laugh:
 
I've been around it since about 1980 when I was introduced to the founder of HPC coatingsWe ran it on the sprint cars and it was amazing how quick you could touch the headers after a race. It will cause a bit of fun on reassembly, however due to the thickness of the coatings. . Coating the inside and outside of the pipes is the key. The inside coating helps send more of the heat though the pipe instead of absorbing it. The outside helps dissipate what the metal took on that much faster. The real trick setup is to coat the valve faces, combustion chamber, piston tops, and exhaust ports with it! It reduces the amount of heat the aluminum head pulls from the chamber.
 
This guy on here who did a turbo build wrapped his in something where he saw a guy put his hand on the exhaust and kept it there for a whole dyno run on a busa.... i need to invest in something like that
 
Just the Professional type application, not the home brew :beerchug:


I have to second that one. I did a set of shorty pipes for my bike with the stuff you buy at AutoZone. I prepped and applied just like the instructions called for. I applied the primer and took it thru 3 heat cycles in my home oven. I then applied the black topcoat and took it thru 3 heat cycles in my home oven (if nothing else it didn't make the wife too happy).

I worked out well for a while but it would always end up chipping and peeling off. The primer seemed to bond the best, I didn't have a problem with that peeling or chipping.

All I know is I took my tubo in to have it profesionally done. Cost me $281 for everything you see here. There were 3 of those parts that were suppose to get powder coated but the company threw in the extra jet coat for free. :thumbsup:

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I've been around it since about 1980 when I was introduced to the founder of HPC coatingsWe ran it on the sprint cars and it was amazing how quick you could touch the headers after a race. It will cause a bit of fun on reassembly, however due to the thickness of the coatings. . Coating the inside and outside of the pipes is the key. The inside coating helps send more of the heat though the pipe instead of absorbing it. The outside helps dissipate what the metal took on that much faster. The real trick setup is to coat the valve faces, combustion chamber, piston tops, and exhaust ports with it! It reduces the amount of heat the aluminum head pulls from the chamber.

Wow i bet once coating all of that major results are seen as far as temperature goes...
 
so who dose ceramic coating? Im buying a RCC turbo kit early next year and i would like to know where I can sent my parts to get coated and a rough cost to get it done.
 
so who dose ceramic coating? Im buying a RCC turbo kit early next year and i would like to know where I can sent my parts to get coated and a rough cost to get it done.

Pit, there looks like a joint up in Sheboygan called Classic Coatings. You could give them a call.

Classic Coatings Inc - Metal Ceramic Coatings, Powder Coatings and Metal Fabrication Company

Or, try Stork Material Technology in Milwaukee,

Contact Information - SMT

Call and get some prices, they should know how much to coat a turbo. Like I said above, the place I took mine told me $98 for just a medium sized turbo. The figured mine was small turbo after seeing it and with all the extra's ran me $281. All depends on how much you're gonna coat.
 
it is worth every $.01 in reduced heat while riding, it does work! also changed to carbon fiber skins on the mufflers at the same time and haven't had any complaints from passengers since then :beerchug:

IMG_5902 (Large).jpg
 
if you start doing all of the in chamber coatings don't forget about the ring lands. A good phosphate surface treatment is a plus. Also you may want to play with your tune and check your plugs as well.
 
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