Chain alignment symptoms

FloydV

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If I adjust my chain by whatever method, and get it wrong (so that the rear tire is not perfectly aligned with the front one), what symptoms would the bike display as a warning as I get up to higher speed.

Would I notice vibration or have some warning before the chain broke and went through the crank case?
 
If I adjust my chain by whatever method, and get it wrong (so that the rear tire is not perfectly aligned with the front one), what symptoms would the bike display as a warning as I get up to higher speed.

Would I notice vibration or have some warning before the chain broke and went through the crank case?

It would have to be pretty bad for that to happen. It will cause premature wear on the chain and sprockets, and back tire. It wont go down the drag strip staight ether:laugh:
 
I know what wear on the sprockets would look like. Are you saying that the tire would wear unevenly? If so, I should be able to spot that.

This is a new EK chain, and it will be its first adjustment. I don't have the luxury of letting someone else do it anymore. I'm guessing that there is 2 inches of slack in it.
 
I know what wear on the sprockets would look like. Are you saying that the tire would wear unevenly? If so, I should be able to spot that.

This is a new EK chain, and it will be its first adjustment. I don't have the luxury of letting someone else do it anymore. I'm guessing that there is 2 inches of slack in it.

Should be 1" to 1 1/2" of up/down movement on the bottom side of the chain midway between the rear wheel and front sprocket. If it's too tight, your rear suspension cannnot expand and contract fully, therefore not working properly. If the rear suspension isn't right, it will throw off the whole bike, even if the front suspension is set correctly. This will cause for poor ride quality. It is not nescassery, but ideal for you the rider to sit on the bike while someone else adjusts it. That way the chain slack is correct with your weight compressing the suspension. If you can't do this, simply sit on the bike and bend down and check the slack once you've adjusted it. If it's too much, or not enough, just adjust it accordingly.
Adjust each side of the rear axle evenly according to the hash marks on the swing arm. There are several methods to get your alignment even more precise, but the hash marks will adjust it close enough for a good ride and even tire and sprocket wear. The chain may stretch some more too, but that is normal. Do not be overly concerned, if it was outta whack, you'de feel that the bike was handling or acting funny; not driving or tracking staight, vibrating, or shaking, more so at higher speeds and curves.
 
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Should be 1" to 1 1/2" of up/down movement on the bottom side of the chain midway between the rear wheel and front sprocket.

Should the up/down movement be measured when the bike is upright, i.e. not resting on it's side stand, and not on a wheel stand?
Or does it make any diffference?

CW
 
It needs to be measured with weight on the rear wheel. If you have a friend, have him hold the bike up and then you measure. If not (which is what I do) have both front and rear on a stand and then measure :beerchug:
 
Should the up/down movement be measured when the bike is upright, i.e. not resting on it's side stand, and not on a wheel stand?
Or does it make any diffference?

CW

The manual says on the side stand and doesn't mention if a rider's weight should be added or not. I'm going to check it both ways. If I sit on it and it gets too tight, I'll have to change the setting. I don't think that Zuke meant that it should be 3/4" with a riders weight. I'm thinking common sense says no tighter than 1 inch.

I appreciate the advice from everyone. Especially that the hash marks are close enough.
 
Hope you get it right!

Proper adjustments now could extend the life of your chain/sprockets...just sayin.
 
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