Bike keeps dying after adding LEDs to HID setup

AD Johnson

Registered
I have a 2008 Hayabusa which I installed 35 Watt 30,000k Xenteca HIDs on a few months ago. About a month after this installation, I noticed the lowbeams would turn off after the bike was running for about 40 minutes, meanwhile the highbeam would stay on.
At this time I only installed the 30k high and lowbeam. I did not install any LEDs in the corner markers.

The vendor advised the ballast for the low beam was probably to blame and he swamped it out for me. At this time I also purchased two LED corner marker bulbs.

I then installed the new lowbeam ballast, along with the LEDs. After allowing the bike to run with both the high and lowbeams on, I found no issues. Upon, riding the bike I noticed the following symptoms:

1. When accelerating, the lights got brighter
2. When cruising or decelerating, the lights got dimmer
3. When at a stop light, the bike would stall out, die, and then start back up
4. When going approximately 20 mph the bike stalled out a few times

I took the seat off and determined I did not have the screws tightened all the way down on the battery. I thought that might be the problem. I then tightened the bolts, thinking this might be a simple solution to this issue.

Today when I got ready to ride, the bike wouldn't start. I hooked it up to the battery tender for a few minutes, and it started right up. I rode a for a while and the bike stalled out numerous times while in 1st gear and while in Neutral. After turning the bike off a few times it did not start immediately, but started after I allowed the bike to sit for about 10 minutes.

I'm wondering if the LEDs are to blame, seeing as the problem starts have just commence with the addition of said LEDs. However, from what I understand LEDs don't draw much amperage. Can anyone shed any light on these occurences? I do have an extended warranty on this bike, and the easy solution is to take it to the dealer. However I'm concerned that once they see the HIDs, they'll void my warranty. Does anyone know whether or not this will be likeley to void my warranty? Also, I'm trying to avoid taking all of the gauges an stuff off...again.

Thanks for reading all of this

AJ
 
I would test the voltage with the bike running. Sounds like the power is draining the battery, probably not putting enough charge back to the battery.
Just somewhere to start looking.
 
I also left out: during the intial install, my budy messed up the terminals on my original battery, and as a result he replace it with a brand new battery. Therefore, I kinda can't see this battery being bad already. I'm wondering if its the stator, but if I replace the stator will the HIDs and LEDs just wear out the new stator? And again, will the HIDs void my warranty?

Thanks
AJ
 
make sure it's the right battery cause i got a budda that had his bike in a shop and he told them that he needed a new battery. they put a regular motorcycle in it and it would crank but after awhile it wouldn't crank. so he went and got another battery and the guy told him that the shop put the wrong battery in it cause busa's need that extra cranking power and that why his bike wouldn't start so check your owners manual for the proper battery.
 
Like it was already said, start with the simple first. Disconnect the lights and see if the problem is still there. That is where I would start.
 
The LED's are not going to be the problem. You could run LED's on for days with the battery and probably still not drain in. It does sound like a weak battery or charging system like everyone else stated. Disconnecting the lights may give you a false conclusion though. If you disconnect them you may think they are to fault when in reality it is just taking enough draw off the battery to let the bike run even though they aren't drawing anymore (or much more) than the stock lights.
 
HID's are rated at 35W.. stock bulbs at 55 & 65.. So they draw less than the stock bulbs... However, in the startup cycle they draw over 8 amps..
So if the ballasts don't get enough to start up you'll get stuck with something that takes a lot of power.. Not sure what lights are getting dim but the HID's shouldn't, they are mor or less on or off.. Either you get an arc or you don't...
I'd disconnect one thing at the time and see... If nothing but the stock harness is
connected I'd replace the battery.. I've had a battery go bad in a 10 mile drive..
From perfect, no problems to absolutely dead.. It shorted out..

30.000k isn't blacklight.. It's the equivalent of a blue sky on a clear day..
UV light is the wavelengt, kelvin is the colour.. :mrknowitallsmartass... :D
 
when I run my high beam at nite{stock headlamps] and I pull the clutch in at a stop light or touch the brakes when coasting,,,I notice the lights dim,,,,maybe the H.I.D lights are pulling more amps than advertised,,,it does have a balas so a flourencent light[ if thats what they are] should pull less amps,,,they are brighter which maybe offset amp wise with the balas,,
Is this happening on low beam only? or high beam?,,if on high beam ,I wouldnt worry,,but on low beam only,,could be a problem,,exspecially if its when you let off the throttle in gear and the rpms are still high,,sounds like either like saidthe in above post,,bad battery,,or the statter is slaveing because of the HID lights,,,could be a faulty balas from the kit,,
 
sounds like either like saidthe in above post,,bad battery,,or the statter is slaveing because of the HID lights,,,could be a faulty balas from the kit,,

I've determine the size/type of battery is correct and it is functioning properly.

The dimming of the HIDs is happening when just the low beam is running. I hadn't thought about the possibility of the ballast being bad...again. Could you speak more to this?

I guess I'll start with the task of taking the HIDs out...again, even though I really think it's just a bad stator.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

-AJ
 
I've determine the size/type of battery is correct and it is functioning properly.

The dimming of the HIDs is happening when just the low beam is running. I hadn't thought about the possibility of the ballast being bad...again. Could you speak more to this?

I guess I'll start with the task of taking the HIDs out...again, even though I really think it's just a bad stator.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

-AJ

Can't you guys go to Autozone or something and have your batteries and alternators loadtested??

Are you running the HID's via a relay or directly?
I run mine thru a relay and haven't had a problem but friends of mine
have had some serious electric gremlins with the HID's connected to the stock cabling.. Mostly interference stuff like, the speedo jumping like freaking crazy and some ignition issues but not this problem..
 
Bad Cell. The battery is about to go. Replace quickly.

The battery does NOT have a bad cell.

Can't you guys go to Autozone or something and have your batteries and alternators loadtested??

Are you running the HID's via a relay or directly?
I run mine thru a relay and haven't had a problem but friends of mine
have had some serious electric gremlins with the HID's connected to the stock cabling.. Mostly interference stuff like, the speedo jumping like freaking crazy and some ignition issues but not this problem..

I had the battery tested, but not the bike, yet. I'm going to remove the HIDs and then take the bike to the dealership.

Uuuhhhh, it came with it's own cords with resistors (I think), and ballasts . I don't know if that means it had a relay or not. I'm not too familiar with electrical stuff- which is why I didn't do the install.
 
I took everything apart, put it back together, and put on smaller screws for the battery terminal. Now I'm having zero issues. The bike runs fine, and consistently starts without a hitch. Though the lights still dim a little when decelerating...

Thanks for all the help.

AJ
 
30.000k isn't blacklight.. It's the equivalent of a blue sky on a clear day..
UV light is the wavelengt, kelvin is the colour.. :mrknowitallsmartass... :D

I'd still like to know what his HID looks like, cause the only 30,000k HIDs I've ever seen are pink...

Can't you guys go to Autozone or something and have your batteries and alternators loadtested??

Nooooooo. Bad idea. Autozone doesn't have the equipment to load test a motorcycle battery. They will ruin it if you take it there. Or at least they ruined my brothers jet ski battery trying to test it. They boiled it. . . As for the "alternator," motorcycles don't have alternators. They're stators, which do basically the same thing, but the design is different. They would have no way of testing a stator, as far as I know. Different stores might have different equipment, but autozone is NOT the place to go for motorcycle problems.

Uuuhhhh, it came with it's own cords with resistors (I think), and ballasts . I don't know if that means it had a relay or not. I'm not too familiar with electrical stuff- which is why I didn't do the install.

He's talking about a delay relay. It's something you'd have to purchase separately and install between the ballast and the bike harness. It keeps the lights off until the bike is started.

Though the lights still dim a little when decelerating...

Thanks for all the help.

AJ

Where did you get your kit from? The HID should never get brighter or dimmer like a halogen because it SHOULD have a capacitor in the ballast to regulate the voltage. I'm wondering if you got a cheap kit that isn't real great quality.
 
Last edited:
Oh, and yes, if they see the HIDs they will most likely void your warranty. Especially if it was installed by you and not them (though I would NEVER trust the dealer to install my HIDs based on things I've heard from others on here). But you can always call and ask. Just don't tell them you already have them. Ask as if you're thinking about getting some and see what they say.
 
You can't see with you eyes closed. You can't figure this out without a V-meter connected to the battery ALL THE TIME. Good idea to get this and permanently install on your bike as I did.

RadioShack® Panel Meter 0-15VDC - RadioShack.com

pRS1C-2266673w345.jpg


Good idea to calibrate with a digital one. It can be connected permanently to the battery because it draws less than 1mA (less than the battery loses naturally).

Observe the voltage and you will see the answer. Based on what you described, your HID's draw more than your charging system gives in - at least at certain times.

When you ride, the voltage should be more than 13V all the time, and more than 13.5V to charge your battery. If it drops below 13V, your battery is not being charged. If it drops below 12.6V, your battery is losing charge.

Again, based on your description, at low rpm, your battery is losing charge. This means, you can ride for a long time and everything could be fine. But, then you get stuck in traffic for half an hour, and your battery loses significant amount of charge because you were at mostly low rpm. If in such conditions you shut the bike off, it won't have enough juice to start. Not to mention, if you don't have a delayed ON for your HID's, your weak battery needs to provide juice for your headlights while about 80 Amps to the starter - not going to happen.
 
Back
Top