Dyno brake in was well worth the $280.00 bucks I paid for it!The final dyno put my new 08 gray and black Busa at 105.77 ft pounds of Torque and 176.64 H.Power!!!
My Question is how do I get these Ugly ass reflectores of my aw inspireing new Busa??the ones on the front seem to be part of the brakes.
Dyno brake in
- Thread starter David562
- Start date
Those are pretty good #'s depending what the correction factors for weather info are. You'll have to get JohnnyCheese or someone to break them down for you to confirm. Otherwise, sounds pretty strong so far but it's a dyno. You'll have to verify it on the track to see if it equates. Dyno is only a limited tuning tool.....
Thanks!! that worked Grate on the front reflcters,becuase of the hex shape I didn't think they would of unscrewed.What about the back ones.I tride a screw driver but the screws just keep spinning and wont come out.Do I need to remove the rear fairing? or is there an easer way?
I just pulled the rear tail section on mine since I had it apart for powder coating anyway. If you don't want to disassemble it, you can pull down on the reflector and slowly turn the screw to see if it comes loose. Sometimes they come out that way sometimes they don't. It's just a little nut on the back side so once it comes loose, you'll have to tap the inner fender until the nut falls out....
The reflectors on the rear have a hex nut inside the plastic. I could find no way to get to the nut to hold it so I unbolted the plastic tail piece and pulled it out just enought to get my fingers on the nut. Doesn't take long to get the tail piece loose. No need to remove the tail light. Everyone takes those funky reflectors off.
When you remove the front reflector, you'll need a couple fender bolts to place in the hole as they do hold the fender on as well. If you go to your suzuki shop to get new bolts, take one of the front fender bolts with you so you are sure to get the proper one.
When you remove the front reflector, you'll need a couple fender bolts to place in the hole as they do hold the fender on as well. If you go to your suzuki shop to get new bolts, take one of the front fender bolts with you so you are sure to get the proper one.
ArmyBusa08
Registered
Good to see more local Washington riders here too. I look forward to meeting as many of you guys as I can when I get home
ArmyBusa08
Registered
Good to see more local Washington riders here too. I look forward to meeting as many of you guys as I can when I get home
Are you talking about a 2008 BUSA or a GSXR1K....?
Just wondering because my 08 and 03 and 01 BUSA didn't have hex nuts on anything related to the reflectors on the rear...
Also, the front reflector doesn't even bolt into the fender. It goes directly into the lower fork/caliper mount...
I can't post pics if you want...
edubb1971
Registered
are we talking dyno tuning, or dyno run?
I've heard of breaking in bikes on a dyno. I don't know if its the best way? Depending on how thourough they were with it, that may not be a bad deal.
If they replicate it this way it would be easier and safer on a dyno than on the street. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
If they replicate it this way it would be easier and safer on a dyno than on the street. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
The guy at the mototune thing really is not an engineer and has no data to back up any of his theory... Not saying he is right or wrong, just not the guy that was paid 6 figures to design a motor and make it last. The factory has a vested interest in your bike for the first year.. they have to warranty it, and they would like you happy enough to buy a new one when you are done with this one...
This picture he has is rubbish.. Find me a builder that will say both these pistons have a full season of racing on them and they came out of the motor looking just like this...
Things have changed over the years with all new engines.. 20 years ago motors were assembled with different materials and methods.. As engines evolve so does the assembly. I think the "run in" has more to do with the drive train now days than the actual motor..
As the material of the rings changed, a lot of other stuff did to. Chromoly rings took us a bit by surprise when they came out.
The final hone finish was something we often did and was a simple 45 degree crosshatch.. This wiped out a brand new set of chromoly rings in about 10 minutes.. There were stories about "how long it took to seat chrome rings" fact was, they seated and wore out in minutes..
I took a boroscope down the top of a new bike motor and the cylinder walls look polished. Not much run in needed there
But there are a lot of other moving parts that do need to get to know each other.. I would follow the factory suggestion myself..
And then there are the "well race motors get broke in at WFO" yea well we also build them worn out already with the exception of the piston/cylinder wall clearances..
There is lots more to this but the debate will go round and round forever..
This picture he has is rubbish.. Find me a builder that will say both these pistons have a full season of racing on them and they came out of the motor looking just like this...
Things have changed over the years with all new engines.. 20 years ago motors were assembled with different materials and methods.. As engines evolve so does the assembly. I think the "run in" has more to do with the drive train now days than the actual motor..
As the material of the rings changed, a lot of other stuff did to. Chromoly rings took us a bit by surprise when they came out.
The final hone finish was something we often did and was a simple 45 degree crosshatch.. This wiped out a brand new set of chromoly rings in about 10 minutes.. There were stories about "how long it took to seat chrome rings" fact was, they seated and wore out in minutes..
I took a boroscope down the top of a new bike motor and the cylinder walls look polished. Not much run in needed there
And then there are the "well race motors get broke in at WFO" yea well we also build them worn out already with the exception of the piston/cylinder wall clearances..
There is lots more to this but the debate will go round and round forever..
I don't think there is sufficient cooling for a dyno break in but that's just my opinion. I do things different than Mototune...
its an 08 busa and thanks to all the help I have gotten on this website you'res included I've got all of the reflecters off.so thank's!!!
I for one am now a big beleiver in Dryno Brake in.This is now my 4th sport bike I've had all of them dyno tested and all the other ones made less horse then the mag tests,but my new dyno broke in Busa maks more horse then the mag test.OOOOh yea!!!
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