Change Exhaust cam to Intake cam.

N

nitezpeed

Registered
HI there. Is there anyone here can help with this MOD? Swap a exhuast cam and use intake cam. Here is the question.. Do i need to buy a offset cam pin for the intake cam to install on the exhuast side? Anyone here can help. Please. Thanks you.:please:
 
not sure on gen II's if anyone is doing it, Shaft its a popular mod on the gen 1 bikes to get a little more power etc.

the exhaust cam doesn't have a pin, only the intake cam has a pin that the cam sensor needs to see swipe by. Can't recall if you have to remove it or not when putting an intake over on the exuast side.
 
You need an adjustable cam sprocket. APE sells them(sponsor here). You're also going to need a way to remove/install the sprockets and time the exhaust cam. Doint a dual intake setup picks up 5-9hp typically, and its usually a relatively inexpensive mod.
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The intake cam on the Gen II is relatively big (.360") in comparison to a Gen I cam (.340"). The exhaust on the Gen II is .344". Adding a 1/2 mm of lift on the exhaust as mentioned is good for a couple of ponies. It helps out huge for nitrous or even turbo applications.
 
My buddy was asking a shop about doing this Mod yesterday. The way he was talking your piston to valve clearance is very close on a Gen 2.

So, make sure you mock it up and check with some clay. Better safe then sorry.

Jet
 
Draco1340 said:
The intake cam on the Gen II is relatively big (.360") in comparison to a Gen I cam (.340"). The exhaust on the Gen II is .344". Adding a 1/2 mm of lift on the exhaust as mentioned is good for a couple of ponies. It helps out huge for nitrous or even turbo applications.
Click to expand...

The Gen II Exhuast Cam is (.344) and Gen I intake cam is only (.340) WAh, If i use Gen II Exh cam on a Gen I intake then if would consider High lift too. Am i right?

Since Gen II Exhuast Cam is (.344) puting a Gen II Intake Cam(.360) on the Exhuast side will lift at least 1/2mm is good for nitrous or even turbo applications but mine is just a Stock... Will it be simply not much of use or gain of HP?

Thanks for advices. :bowdown:
 
Jetfixr320 said:
My buddy was asking a shop about doing this Mod yesterday. The way he was talking your piston to valve clearance is very close on a Gen 2.

So, make sure you mock it up and check with some clay. Better safe then sorry.

Jet
Click to expand...

HI there. Can u highlight me more on wat he is refer as (talking your piston to valve clearance is very close on a Gen 2)(So, make sure you mock it up and check with some clay)

Thanks for your sharing..:bowdown:
 
I've never had a Busa motor apart. But I know from playing around with changing cams in cars. You should check the clearance between the piston and valves at max lift. Just to be safe.

Google, How to measure piston to valve clearance.

You, put a piece of modeling clay on top of the piston, bolt the head down, turn the engine over till your exhaust and intake valves open and close. Pull the head and measure the indentations in the clay.

I think there are other ways of checking also.

Just something to think about.

Jet
 
Th intake cam mod is good for 7 more HP if you already have done an air box mod and have some sort of full exhaust on a Gen 1. I have seen the HP between 169 and 175 on bikes with this set up. The exhaust system you use makes the difference. It also will help if you leave the PAIR valve on and use it as a crank case vacuum for a few more HP.

I have had good luck checking valve clearance using a piece of solder. It holds together better than clay and you can use a caliper to read it without it coming apart like clay.
 
PaulCav said:
Th intake cam mod is good for 7 more HP if you already have done an air box mod and have some sort of full exhaust on a Gen 1. I have seen the HP between 169 and 175 on bikes with this set up. The exhaust system you use makes the difference. It also will help if you leave the PAIR valve on and use it as a crank case vacuum for a few more HP.

I have had good luck checking valve clearance using a piece of solder. It holds together better than clay and you can use a caliper to read it without it coming apart like clay.
Click to expand...

It is a good cheap mod for a Gen-I. However, on the Gen-II I have heard it might not even be worth half that. I would get aftermarket cams personally and port the head if you are going through all the trouble...
 
Draco1340 said:
The intake cam on the Gen II is relatively big (.360") in comparison to a Gen I cam (.340"). The exhaust on the Gen II is .344". Adding a 1/2 mm of lift on the exhaust as mentioned is good for a couple of ponies. It helps out huge for nitrous or even turbo applications.
Click to expand...

HI Draco. May i ask Gen II intake cam(.360) and Exhaust cam (.344) this reading is refering to what? degree? Height? mm? Measurement.

Sorry for asking so much. I,m green about engine.. :bowdown:

Thanks for sharing
 
Got-Busa? said:
It is a good cheap mod for a Gen-I. However, on the Gen-II I have heard it might not even be worth half that. I would get aftermarket cams personally and port the head if you are going through all the trouble...
Click to expand...

HI Got-Busa. So u think this mod is not worth it. How much hp gain on a after market CAM? Web cam? But port the head.. I heard that gen II is using titauiam valves and not suitable for porting. Is it true?

Thanks for sharing:bowdown:
 
Nitezpeed,
Cams are defined by lift, duration and centerline. The Gen II has a .360 lift on the intake, and a ..344 on the exhaust. Putting the intake on the exhaust was such a poplular mod on the Gen I, the factory actually made the exhaust lift on the Gen II virtually the same lift as the intake on the Gen I. Suzuki also provided a bigger intake, so Got Busa is correct in that the Gen II mod doesn't give the same benefit as it did on the Gen I.

I don't know what the duration of the Gen II cam is, and centerline is genarally what you set them to. 105/105 on centerline is typical unless you are running nitrous or turbo. There is nothing wrong with Titanium valves per se. Its the very light springs that go with the valves that cause problems if you plan to run nitrous, turbo, or really spin the motor to 11,500+ RPM. Most people that have the head removed and ported go with stainless valves and 60# springs to prevent spit shims or cam brinelling from valve float.

The real benefit for this big exhaust cam mod is for nitrous. You can trick the intake valve with super-chilled fuel and "liquid air" on a nitrous motor, but the exhaust valve sees all that extra combustion and can't get rid of it easily.
 
Good info. I have an extra set of Gen2 cams and sprockets just laying around. I was thinking of doing this mod on my gen2. I do run the NOS on the LSR tracks So this sounds as if it may be a worth while mod for me. Thanks
 
Okay, I'll bite...if it's a simple thing to do and it generates more power why aren't the Ph.D boffins and master mechanics at Suzuki already doing it before we buy the bikes?

Naw, sorry, I ain't buying it. Gotta be a price to pay in engine damage, reliability, or something.???
 
Did this mod on my gen 1. Definetly not worth the money or time. Lost so much low end that I had to change the sprocket to get some low end back. 60ft times suffered severely.
 
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