"How to build the perfect 1441" it will save you time and headaches!~

[GPW]

Well, as some of you have followed. I have been playing with the Gen II Busa only since 2008. I have learned miles since then and I have decided to share what I learned. Hang on...

 

[GPW]

Lets start at the top of the list. What do you want to do, how fast do you want to go and who is the competition.

 

[GPW]

My first edition 1441 had some very basic mods at first. It started making around 180 HP with a Tsukigi Canon, Pipercross Filter and lowered. Then we made some changes.

 

[GPW]

Stage One:

APE 1441 Piston Kit
APE Intake Cam
Hand port and Polished Head (by me) my sixth head
APE STUDS
APE .018 head gasket
APE Springs & Retainers
Tsukigi Canon Exhaust
Bazzaz Auto Tune
Oil Pressure regulator
GI-Pro set on 5
Stock Rods

Special Features:

100 Shot of dry NOS with a Adams Spray Bar
Foot shifting
slammed
"3 over
No shift light
Stock like tire

 

[GPW]

Motor clearances:

Never checked
All parts were drop-in and fell within stock specs
Super EASY TO DO!

Cam:

Intake advanced to 106

Tune:

Dyno and auto tune

Fuel:

Pump gas & Maxima

 

[GPW]

Power:

195 HP
116 Foot Pounds of torque
over 300 HP on spray

 

[GPW]

This bike will be my race bike this. It will get everything I learned on the last bike and some...

I had everything working against me on this bike, parts wise that is......more later.

 

[GPW]

BIKE #2: (8secbusa)

Got a call from the owner regarding repairing and building a Gen II Hayabusa engine. He said it was broke, needed diagnosis and images. He wanted a 1441 bike and he had already purchased a Brock's kit. He was advised that this was my second 1441.

He said he saw the above bike at the track (STAGE ONE), when we went rounds at Mi-rock in street ET (8.7 dial in), testing durability, and made it to the semi-finals, spraying every pass on the back half. We had a theory. We had the bigger gun. We would leave slow and catch up later. There was not one bike out there we could not catch. We had 300 HP on reserve. So the bike looked strong but we never left hard, when we did we spun bad.

The small 2 oz. bottle did not work in LSR very well, oh well.

 

[GPW]

The first part. The tear down......

 

[GPW]

 

[GPW]

All of the problems start here for this motor. Like searching for the source of fire. These stock pistons got so hot the centers melted. Image below...we not right here at the spark plug. Look at the cylinder walls, that piston wanted out of there.

 

[GPW]

Ok, what caused the heat. A 14.3 tune on the dyno which was probably a 14.5 tune on the track specially if ram air was not simulated on the dyno. High AFR and MR9 which is low in octane and oygenated had one heck of a party together in this motor. If this was video taped it would have been amazing too see. All the stress went down stairs to the piston pins, small end rods jouranals and to the bearings. Now add a pick-up tube that is full of massive amounts of clutch matter. Thats my cause of failure.

 

[GPW]

Oh yeah, I am GPW.

 

[GPW]

Sorry here is bike #1:

 

[GPW]

 

[GPW]

So, the lower end parts list looked pretty clear.

Crank
Rods
Rod Bearings
Main Bearings to match the crank
Studs
Oil pressure regulator
Clean and replace oil pick-up
Pistons
Hand Polished all internal parts
Cleaned motor inside and out

 

[GPW]

Edit ..

 

[GPW]

New crank and bearing size measurements...I know I am still using plasti-gauge. Certainly not 1.5 or 2.5. For the novice...1.0 would smoke this bearing in seconds of operation and 5.0 would rattle like a rock in a soda can. Also thats about the layer of assembly lube you want on there before securing the rod bolts, the rest will squeeze out..

 

[GPW]

Pick a solid set of rods. Carrillo "H" Beam's were used here. Match up your clearances with the bearing selection chart in the manual. Use a torque wrench and secure your rods based on your own techniques or follow the manual.

 

[djsin]