Throwing FI light 200 miles after Dyno tune

[1badbusa74]

Took my bike to get tuned Thursday and now im dead in the water. Rode all day yesterday with no problems and never once over 7000 rpm( had girlfriend riding her bike along side me) When I went to go out later the bike started and shut off after about 10 seconds. Started it again and same thing. FI light is blinking and not solid and i can get it to start just wont stay running. I have been noticing it idle at 1400 here and there about 500 miles after i installed the x-tre and yesterday it idled at 1100. Does anybody have any idea what to do? Im thinking about putting the map back to where it was. I have R-77 full system with USB III power commander and the x-tre. Its damn nice out today i would like to ride...

 

[freponyryd]

Check all of the conections anlong with the 02 bung. If that doesn't work try another map. Or maybe a full reset by disconecting the battery.

 

[teamorion22]

that sounds bogus. your bike should run better after tune, not worse. contact the map maker. good luck. keep us updated

 

[Got-Busa?]

Took my bike to get tuned Thursday and now im dead in the water. Rode all day yesterday with no problems and never once over 7000 rpm( had girlfriend riding her bike along side me) When I went to go out later the bike started and shut off after about 10 seconds. Started it again and same thing. FI light is blinking and not solid and i can get it to start just wont stay running. I have been noticing it idle at 1400 here and there about 500 miles after i installed the x-tre and yesterday it idled at 1100. Does anybody have any idea what to do? Im thinking about putting the map back to where it was. I have R-77 full system with USB III power commander and the x-tre. Its damn nice out today i would like to ride...

That sucks man, who did your map...? Are you running the O2 eliminator...?

I'd try taking off the x-tre first to see if that works. Otherwise, jump the connector beside the battery to get the error code. It will display what is wrong on the dash so you can trouble shoot from there. If you need help jumping the plug, let us know.

 

[dadofthree]

Sorry to hear. Check all the connections. For giggles and grins I'd remove the TRE and see if that fixes it. If not I'd go back to the original map.

 

[GPW]

Take off the add on electronics and see if it goes away, start with the XTRE, then the PCIII..if it happens with both off there are another issues, if it only happens with the PCIII on thats likely the issue. How are things at the 100% throttle, pegged wide open like in your videos?? Simple trouble shooting should clear it up. Did you modify your exhuast?

 

[1badbusa74]

Uhhh. Greg. You know I dont go 100% throttle but maybe thats my problem. I have to stop babying my bike. Im changing everything and will call you to order things this week. Talk to you then

 

[Dozerdriver]

His ecu needs to be reset. Is there anyway to do it without taking it to the stealership?

 

[Got-Busa?]

Reset the ECU...? ???

 

[1badbusa74]

So power commander wouldn't see laptop with key on so i had to use the external 9 volt power source. Think ecu is in some sort of protection mode and needs to be reset. I was able to put the downloadable map back on PC. I saved the tuned map just in case. Disconnected the battery and ecu and bike still not starting. Getting the flashing FI light. Bike tries to start but wont turn over. Been told that ecu needs to be reset by dozer who is a friend and another friend had the problem too. Gonna take it to stealership in the am to get it cleared out. Hope it fixes the problem. thanks for the advice!

 

[Got-Busa?]

Don't know if it will work on the BUSA but on many cars I've built/tuned try unhooking the battery and then turn on the key. Leave it on for a bit and see if it will drain all of the juice out of the system. I've never had to reset a factory ECU on a BUSA before so good luck if that doesn't work.

I don't think this is the case with the PC but on the Bazzaz you have to have the bike key on then open the laptop software. If you don't do it in the correct sequence it can cause issues. It will also lock up the computer if you don't unhook it correctly.

Otherwise, did you change anything since the tune...? Did you trace all of the connectors to make sure nothing came undone? The PC is getting power (getting a good ground) and lighting up?

As far as a cheap easy fix, the other option is to jump the connector under the seat and post up the error code displayed on the dash....

 

[Dozerdriver]

Need more info on how to get the code to display with jumper. Found some codes.

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (01-02 1000 and 06-07 600/750/1000 ONLY

 

[Got-Busa?]

Take off the seat and look on the right side of the ECU (throttle side). You'll see a little white plug alone that isn't plugged into anything with 6-pin holes. When you look at the plug, take out the two rubber pieces on the side with the wires going into it (same side). Use a paperclip or something to connect the two with the key on. It will cycle through on the dash and display the error code...

My guess is when the XTRE was installed one of the pins were bent and now it's throwing the bad connection code. See what it says but I would retrace the pins that connected with the TRE. You may even try pushing on the ECU wires to make sure nothing was pulled loose when the tach signal was accessed for the dyno runs...

 

[Dozerdriver]

Take off the seat and look on the right side of the ECU (throttle side). You'll see a little white plug alone that isn't plugged into anything with 6-pin holes. When you look at the plug, take out the two rubber pieces on the side with the wires going into it (same side). Use a paperclip or something to connect the two with the key on. It will cycle through on the dash and display the error code...

My guess is when the XTRE was installed one of the pins were bent and now it's throwing the bad connection code. See what it says but I would retrace the pins that connected with the TRE. You may even try pushing on the ECU wires to make sure nothing was pulled loose when the tach signal was accessed for the dyno runs...

Thanks for the info...

 

[Got-Busa?]

I don't have a pic of the Gen-II Hayabusa plug but this should give you an idea. It's the Black/White and Red/White on the same side that you need to jump...

THE PLUG LOOKS DIFFERENT ON THE HAYABUSA, this is from a GSXR-750....

 

[Dozerdriver]

I will take a look tomorrow if he doesn't take it to the dealer. Appreciate the picture. When I put in my Bazzaz I tied the power in to a plug there, I think there are 2 plugs located in that area. The ecu was unpluged a couple of times to check for connection and power wire taken off with key switch on for any extra drain.. I read that if the FI light is blinking the bike will still run and solid red it will not run. It's blinking but not running now?

 

[Got-Busa?]

Yep, it's the same white plug that you tied your Bazzaz power jumper into. I would double check the pins, I had a similar issue installing the Bazzaz. A couple pins backed out and caused the same problem but it was on the injectors. I jumped the plug and it told me which injectors to check...

Sounds like it's one of the ECU plugs but who knows....

 

[BusaWizard]

Sounds like one of your add ons is the problem, start by eliminating them.

 

[Commuta_Busa]

who tunned your bike???

 

[Got-Busa?]

Got any Kool-aid to go with that Soup?