Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1


    One common problem with the 1999 and some 2000 model pumps is copper coming from the pumps themselves and clogging the fuel screens. If you didn't get a recall or missed warrantee service or just want more fuel flow, this is an effective solution. Bike with fuel problems will have a number of symptoms. The bike idle will be rough and will tend to stall as it warms and when opening the throttle and shifting, the bike will suddenly lose power, as if you had just pulled in the clutch among other power-loss symptoms.

    I got all the parts I needed for this at Jeg's and Summit Racing.

    Here are the part numbers for the three items you will need from Summit:

    KNN-81-0040 6AN K&N Fuel Filter
    AER-FCM1012 Straight 6AN aluminum hose fitting
    EAR-403006 6 AN, 3 ft., braided stainless steel fuel line

    They seem to have the filters on backorder, so you might try Jeg's, which seems to have everything but the fuel line.

    You will also need to order a packing seal for the fuel pump Part No. 15144-24F00. You should also get two 3/32" wide o-rings, one measuring ID: 1-3/8", OD: 1-9/16" and one measuring ID: 1-9/16", OD: 1-3/4" and a third small o-ring for the pressure regulator (I forget the size, but you can usually reuse this one.

    OK, now to the installation:

    You will need to cut the fuel line without freying the braid. A Dremel will work with patience, otherwise a band saw or cutoff saw works best. I used a 10" cutoff saw with a metal-cutting blade. You should wrap the section that you will cut with either shrink tubing or tape. Cut one length to 4.5" and another length to 7.5". You should have two lengths of hose with both ends wrapped in tape or tubing. Remove the tape from only one end on each, this will be the end inserted into the fittings.

    Dip the ends to be pressed into some fresh motor oil for lubrication. Press the hex end onto the hose, making sure the ends do not frey and press the other fitting end onto the hose. Tighten the connections and install the filter onto the hoses as shown.

    Now you need to remove the screens and filter from the pump assembly. Plug the fuel lines and remove the fuel pump assembly (see manual for detail, I will post those pages if needed). You need to remove the pressure regulator screen, the fuel filter and the fuel screen from the assembly. To get the fuel screen, you will need to cut the screen from the plastic with a razor.

    Replace the pump assembly. You will now need to switch the rail sections on the fuel rail. Switch the right section with the left and rotate it such that the nozzle is pointing down and toward the rear of the bike.

    At this point, you may want to check the injector screens. Some people have removed these as well, claiming better fuel flow, but I have left them intact.

    Now place the hose-filter between the pump and rail. The short end should attach to the pump and the long end should attach to the rail. Make sure to use FI-type hose clamps. The tape or tubing placed when cutting will help prevent the hose from getting freyed.

    Test the line for any leaks by running the pump (ignition in 'on' position) and you should be done.

    You can check the filter every 5-10K miles and clean it, but this should be the last filter you ever buy, saving you the $25-50 dealers charge for the OEM paper filter.

  2. #2


    Thanks for the advise - I am based in Southern England and I assume that Jeg's and Summit are based in the States - product numbers are different - do you have the Suzuki part no's or closest equivalent.

  3. #3


    Look for those brands. You might have local hot rod shops or suppliers, that is where you will find most of what you need. These aren't Suzuki parts, BTW. I'm not sure what suppliers you have over there. Summit might be able to ship if you can't find them locally, though.

  4. #4


    Thanks for the info... I am on my third or four filter myself. I will have to check this out.
    Educate and inform the whole mass of the people... They are the only sure reliance for the preservation of our liberty.
    Thomas Jefferson

  5. #5


    I've got an '03. Does this still apply?

    "Concerned ownerz need to know..."
    82 CB900F->84 VF1000F->91 ST1100->03 Busa <--- My Mod&#39;s

    Retired: USN / ANG Sobering Thoughts

  6. #6
    Seasoned Pilot
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Prestonsburg, Ky.


    Not that I'm aware of. Most all flaws in 99-00 Busa's were fixed by 01.

  7. #7


    Are you aware of any better fuel pumps than the stocker?? *I had a race shop tell me that some 'Busa' owners were using a Ford Mustang fuel pump. *I am looking for something that will maintain steady pressure at wide open throttle for a few miles at a time.
    Team Too Fast
    Land Speed Racer #382
    200 MPH Club - 201.793 MPH

  8. #8


    There are other pumps you can use. You need to make sure that they output 42psi and have a similar regulator. It will cost more than just finding a used 2000 pump and proper fuel flow might be difficult to set up.

    Thanks for emailing me, Bike382. I am looking into the filters now. Anyone else, please feel free to email me. I often overlook these forums, and thus often overlook questions people have. If you have questions, please follow them up with an email to grab my attention.

  9. #9


    I just got some info from a member on It looks like GOLAN is making the old K&Ns now, plus a bit cheaper (~$10-15 less than old prices).

  10. #10


    <span style='color:blue'></span>

    Is there a set mileage when the filter should be replaced?
    The wife hates my &#39;Busa. I think I&#39;ll keep it&#33;

  11. #11


    Is it possible to just swap out a '99 tank, pump and filter for a 2001+ set?

  12. #12


    Narcissus, Hey I appreciate the info. I could not keep my bike running, always clogging filters. I completed the mod this last weekend, and I have had no problems. Thanks for the tip.
    Educate and inform the whole mass of the people... They are the only sure reliance for the preservation of our liberty.
    Thomas Jefferson

  13. #13

  14. #14


    Same with tdrcomm...can a fuel pump of 01' or upward, be install on a 99'?

  15. #15


    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (Mac Daddy @ April 07 2004,11:03)]<span style='color:blue'></span>

    Is there a set mileage when the filter should be replaced?
    I'm curious about this as well. I have 10.5K on the bike and I'm sure it'd be a good idea to change the filter. Anyone know when it should be changed, as I have no owners manual.


    2009 Electric Lime Pearl Hayabusa
    Lowered, 6+, Widened Stock Wheel, All LEDs & Nothing Shiny

  16. #16


    (Narcissus @ Sep. 17 2003,10:45)</div><div id="QUOTEHEAD">QUOTE</div><div id="QUOTE">There are other pumps you can use. You need to make sure that they output 42psi and have a similar regulator.</div>
    As per Chapter 4, page 12 of the Hayabusa Service Manual, fuel pressure is regulated at 43 PSI (not the 42 PSI you stated). Not nitpicking sir, just shooting for excellence via accuracy.


    I've cleaned my 99 Hayabusa's paper fuel filter 3 times. It cleans up easily and nicely with Gumout Carburetor spray, then just blow it out with compressed air and it's good as new and good for another 10,000 miles. On the 3rd time I cleaned the paper filter, I noticed it wasnít red in color as it was the first two times. It was dark, more black in appearance. It would appear that either the last of the copper may have worked its way out of the fuel pump or, the fuel injection cleaner that Iíve been running far more consistently may be reacting with the copper and turning it black.

    Either way, disassembling the fuel pump every 10,000 miles or so gets to be a real hassle.

    I personally wouldn't go through all the hassle of modifying the stock pump. If I did anything, I'd simply replace it with a far better fuel pump with an external fuel filter.

    For those thinking about switching their fuel tank and fuel pump out for an 01, keep in mind that you will shorten your cruise range, as the 01 fuel tanks are several tenths of a gallon smaller since the pump takes up some of the fuel space. I realize this isn't a big deal to most, but my rides are always long in distance, so I absolutely wouldn't want to shorten my cruising distance per tank of fuel.

    Just recently, I managed to go 194 miles (and my odometer is Yellowbox corrected) before my reserve fuel light came on! It's nice being able to ride for a decent distance without constantly looking for gas stations. Yes, I have my higher compression 12.3:1, .378"/.330" Web cam'ed engine tuned for fuel economy in my cruise ranges and I exercised throttle control (including pulling in the clutch lever and coasting down steep mountain hills like a roller coaster - Weee). I also have 3.815% taller than stock gearing (19/43 gearing and 2 additional links in my chain), which aids in achieving greater fuel economy.

  17. #17


    Awesome info on the 99 filter changes. I have a bone stock 99 busa with over 60k miles on it and have been cleaning the filter and was wondering about a mod. Thanks for the info..

  18. #18

    Default Re: Fuel Filter change

    Hi guys,
    I am new here,and are thinking of doing the above maintenace. But it seems that i can access to the pics.... Is there something wrong with the link to the pics...

  19. #19

    Default Re: Fuel Filter change

    Quote Originally Posted by Narcissus View Post
    I just got some info from a member on It looks like GOLAN is making the old K&Ns now, plus a bit cheaper (~$10-15 less than old prices).

    nice site.. I need to get some put on my other bike. very good selection

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts