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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 09:40 AM
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Just bought the blockoffs, but I may do the pair to crankcase instead....does it inject into the exhaust...if so does any oil get through the pair and make smoke...

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 08:14 PM

 
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good question furball. i am still kinda lost on this pair valve issue. is the marble trick the easiest way? and is that the same as block offs? i have a stock system except 2 yoshi bolt-ons. i dont have any backfiring but will it increase throttle response? i did notice after the bolt-ons there is a slight hesitation when i crack the throttle. so is the marble trick the fastest and easiest way?

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2005, 10:27 AM
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From what I have read the marble is the easiest way....it makes the pair useless I guess...only reason I was getting block offs was to clean up the exhaust area....but after reading this I am now thinking of taking the crankcase and sending it to the pair...but not sure if that will happen either....May just do the marble until I figure it all out....Only problem is I have the blockoffs on the way...

From what I've read only thing the blockoffs do over the marble is save ya a few lbs....When I had the Microns on I didn't backfire too much...just a little pop here and there, but no big bangs....Still not sure which way I plan on going...guess I'll read this thread one more time and decide...

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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2005, 11:12 AM
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What does pair valve block off and TRE do for a stock bike?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2005, 09:57 PM
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Just got my Reaper block-offs installed. Much better! No more backfire/popping!

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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 02:44 AM
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Special with gaskets $24.95

http://hayabusazone.com/pairplates.html



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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2006, 12:24 PM
 
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from what i always understood if you have bolt-ons/slip-ons you don't need to do the PAIR valve removal? Has this changed? i see some folks here with bolt-ons.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2006, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [b
Quote[/b] (solo_md @ Jan. 19 2006,09:24)]from what i always understood if you have bolt-ons/slip-ons you don't need to do the PAIR valve removal? *Has this changed? *i see some folks here with bolt-ons.
I think the reason Givinr did the marble mod was to stop slipons from backfiring. The marble mod is just an easy way to stop air from flowing into the exhaust stream, the same as the pair valve mod.

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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2006, 12:59 AM
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where else can i go for the block off plates w/ gaskets? *i emailed hayabusazone.com 4 times in the last week and have yet 2 get a reply.



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lowered 1 front, 2 rear, M4 exhaust, Ti header/ CF muffler & PCII, +6 Catalyst fiberglass tail, +6 swing arm, '99 Alum. Subframe, Alum. Triple Tree, C/F front fender / chain guard / inner panels / mirrors, AirTech Slammed fiberglass tank, Vortex -1 +2 sprockets, EK 530ZZZ gold chain, air shifter, PUIG smoke DB, BMC Race Filter, Galfer S/S lines, APE Clutch, APE HD springs, 1 piece clutch hub, Clear Clutch cover, APE cam chain tensioner, Shinko R003 120/70 & 200/50, next..cams
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2006, 02:08 AM
 
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go to brockracing.com they have them for 59.95
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2006, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [b
Quote[/b] (hayabusa05 @ Feb. 06 2006,16:08)]go to brockracing.com they have them for 59.95
is there something special on y theirs is $60 and yet hayabusazone.com's r $25?

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2001 Hayabusa

lowered 1 front, 2 rear, M4 exhaust, Ti header/ CF muffler & PCII, +6 Catalyst fiberglass tail, +6 swing arm, '99 Alum. Subframe, Alum. Triple Tree, C/F front fender / chain guard / inner panels / mirrors, AirTech Slammed fiberglass tank, Vortex -1 +2 sprockets, EK 530ZZZ gold chain, air shifter, PUIG smoke DB, BMC Race Filter, Galfer S/S lines, APE Clutch, APE HD springs, 1 piece clutch hub, Clear Clutch cover, APE cam chain tensioner, Shinko R003 120/70 & 200/50, next..cams
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2006, 11:20 PM
 
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Do you gain alot from this mod and do you have to "retune" after doing this if you already have a custom map.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2006, 12:18 AM
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it's not so much that you "unleash" any hidden power....but after removing the PAIR your system will replicate a "rich condition" and unspent fuel will accumulate in the exhaust and can cause the backfire that many experience.
So yes, a "retune" of the system is preferred to get the A/F set correctly. This "can" be accomplished by one of the many maps available from power commander, if you go that route.....or a couple of gadgets that can remap the stock CDI.

I must admit....if you are going for the removal ... Jay's set from APE are the way to go. I have no idea why some places want SO MUCH for those tiny litttle pieces!
I just got mine from Jay 2 weeks ago....quick shipment.

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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2006, 02:52 AM
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I got a set of Brock's for $45.00
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2006, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [b
Quote[/b] (usn04limited @ Oct. 11 2004,14:10)]Thanx guys, sounds like a winter project with a beer.

Peace
Don
It only took a few hours for me to remove the full exhaust and pair valves, and put on my new exhaust. Not very involved, really. Remember to get gaskets when you get your block off plates. There are existing gaskets on the valve ports that you could probably re-use, but I wouldn't, and you'll need to scrape them off. Remember also to get the gaskets for your exhaust ports if you do replace your headers. I would recommend NOT using a marble to block off your air box, if that sucker gets sucked into your pistons your screwed. Use a big rubber plug made for that purpose, or something similar you can fashion yourself. For the hose to the throttle bodies (when you remove your pair valve, there will be one hose that goes to your airbox and one to your throttle bodies) I just folded the hose over, safety wired it to kink it without cutting into the hose (in case I ever need to use it again for some odd reason) and stuck a wooden dowel into the end of the hose). You can block it off if you want, but I didn't want to remove my air box and so forth. It was the same effect without removing the air box.

Anyway, good luck and have fun! Beers, tools, and a bike is always a blast!

Jason
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2006, 10:00 PM
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ok let me get something straight. pair mod or marble mod will stop air directed into the exhaust. Ok good i got that. Pair or marble mod is something if you dont plan on using a power commander? can i just solve the backfiring issue with a correctly mapped powercommander? or will i still neeed to do it on top of using a power commander?

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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2006, 10:02 PM
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also i heard this mod is not needed for just bolt ons and only suggested if you run a full exhaust system. Is this true?

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2006, 11:37 PM
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Don't need to do the piar mod unless you got a full exhaust . Save it for when you change your headers.

Heres where you get the pair block offs !
http://www.reaperracing.biz/index.html

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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2006, 07:24 PM
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+1 for the marble mod-and the bulge is impressive

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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2006, 11:14 PM
 
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Piece-o-cake! Did it in an hour and a half without removing the header; APE block-offs; total $33.00 shipping included; Ordered them online, had them in three days; Backfire whoas cured!;
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