Ecu tuning!?!?

The best tuning option is to have it put on a dyno and tuned by a professional. There is A LOT that goes in2 it..... Do research and find out where the nearest credible shop is.
 
I guess I should have specified, but OF COURSE THE BIKE WILL BE DYNO TUNED!

Now, back to the discussion, has anyone used that specific ECU editor, how is it?

Can anyone else verify how much power the factory Gen 1 fuel system can support?
 
If Johnny Cheese says that the stock fuel system supports 180-190 HP then you can take that straight 2 the bank and cash it....:whistle:
 
I have and use Justin's software/hardware and its great. It is NOT for the button clicker-lets see what happens kinda guy. IMO its far superior to the PC but your dyno operator needs to be on board with the idea of using it and understand what its doing and how/why it does what it does. I pulled 202hp on a stock fuel system running unleaded race fuel but we are swapping out the entire fuel system this year.
 
If Johnny Cheese says that the stock fuel system supports 180-190 HP then you can take that straight 2 the bank and cash it....:whistle:

If you carefully look at what the Cheeseman stated:

on a gen one at 43 psi and stock fuel system you are out of fuel at 180-190 hp

There is room there for more HP potential if you bump the FP up.

I have made SAE 215hp on a 65hp fogger shot on a stone stock Gen I with stock fuel system. Note the SAE # as I am at 5300' altitude so actual HP was showing 184hp. Everything was looking good on my wideband as well as the datalogger.

I was at nearly 100% duty cycle on the stock injectors which is a bad thing.
 
How would you go about bumping the fuel pressure on a Busa? Same as a car, jus an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?

I should also clarify that during the speed runs where nitrous will be used, I will be running race gas. Most likely 100 octane because I can get it locally on the pumps as well and I want to keep my dyno time down.
 
I agree to run C16. You can do the regulator crush on it to give it a starting static pressure to say around 55psi. It takes a few tries to get it right which means pulling it in and out....a real PITA. You have to do it incrementally or else you will have a FUBAR'd reg.

You basically use a correct size socket which I don't recall what size then tap the top of the reg with the socket and small hammer. Tap it not hammer it. This will crush the diaphram essentially providing more pressure. Very small tries until you reach the psi you need/want. Keep in mind, pressure helps and is sort of a band-aid IMHO but for the long term, a larger injector would be better and more consistent at more reliable lower duty cycles. This was popular in the 80s when the Mustang EFI came out and there were no supporting mods to be utilized yet.

A lot of work to keep everything stock like, so you could gut the internal pump and reg out of the tank and using an external pump and aftermarket external reg to do fine tuning. Usually that is best for Turbo and big Nitrous setups. Again, eventually you'll want more so now is the time to get bigger injectors and tune it via ECU
 
Don't bs Around. Throw a 255 pump in it along with some s2000 injectors and spray the house down.
No need for external pumps and regulators . That craps just in the way . Stock fuel rails and line works fine with that setup. And definitely use c16 especially on the bigger shots. Granted I have run 60 shot with just a yosh box program and never had an issue but that was only running 1/8 mile tracks. Lol and round robin the heck out of the bike I might add lmao!
 
I was looking at VP's fuel line and I was wondering why everyone mentions C16 and not any of thier other offerings? Is it due to more availability of c16?
 
yeah now I do, that dyno graph looked a little off. Not an expert on those things but a few guys chimed in on it and doubted it made 240. I'd get it redyno'd and have somebody else do it
 
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