trouble bleeding dual lines

[kjcili]

ok. so I rebuilt my calipers, new seals, dust boot, pass through o-ring, put on new rotors, pads, and dual SS lines. have fluid, but no lever pressure at all. tried gravity bleeding. loosened banjo's at cal's, got good flowing fluid, have some fluid at bleeder, just can't get good lever pressure. any ideas appreciated.

[boriqua_n_co]

I always bleed the clutch side first and then do the throttle side... I guess farthest first... I don't know anything about the rebuild of the calipers etc...
Good luck and I hope you get it figured out... Someone help this guy..

[omslaw]

Hrmmm - I pulled mine apart to clean and paint them. IIRC, it took some pumping of the lever to get pressure built back up. That said - I also used a MityVac to bleed.

Something you may try...pull the brake lever all the way to the throttle and zip-tie it there. Let it sit overnight. I've heard that it will help the air "bubble up" to the reservoir.

[2busa]

You break the banjo at the master cylinder? Sometimes the pedal will come up if you remove the highest bubble point is about at the M/C.

[kjcili]

I'm about to get some gas and matches. 2 days and I still don't think my lever feels right. Bike stops "OK", but thats it. I've tied the lever overnight, bled system at all banjo's, gravity bled, pump and bleed, vacuum, all of it. U know what makes this worse, all the threads in the world can't tell me whats wrong unless sum1 actually witnesses it, ya know!?!
If I set the roll-a-click at 1, the lever smashes with grip with little braking assist.

[MC MUSTANG]

One of the problems with vacuum bleeding is that if the hose doesn't present a good seal, air can get back through the bleeder... also, I have found that it always helps to have a second person when able... good seal for the hose, pump a few times to start the pull and have someone else squeeze the lever and refill the resevior...

[DEMMYM]

Originally Posted by omslaw

Hrmmm - I pulled mine apart to clean and paint them. IIRC, it took some pumping of the lever to get pressure built back up. That said - I also used a MityVac to bleed.

Something you may try...pull the brake lever all the way to the throttle and zip-tie it there. Let it sit overnight. I've heard that it will help the air "bubble up" to the reservoir.

MityVac is worth the money, Pretty cheap too.

[kjcili]

Originally Posted by DEMMYM

MityVac is worth the money, Pretty cheap too.

I actually own 2 mity-vac's. I also have a pneumatic vacuum bleeder. Still no luck
Posted via Mobile Device

[Sous]

If it were me, I would remove all the fluid from the lines and reseal them ensuring that the washers are between the banjos and bolts.

Then, refill the reservoir and use the mightyvac to try again. Even after using the Mightyvac, you will have to pump the brake about 10 times to get a firm feeling.

[busakidaz]

Did you try rocking the whole bike side to side. I got alot of bubbles out doing that or did you try hitting your handle bar with your fist (just tap it ) some bubbles come up like that way too.

[1299]

When I put SS lines on my Honda, I filled the reservoir, left the cap off, and pumped the lever until I got not more air bubbles. The fluid displaced the air and forced the air to the top. Replaced my cap and was good to go.

[omslaw]

Here's something that I had to do... I was getting little air bubbles in the hose when bleeding with my MityVac. Turns out that air was getting in around the threads of the bleeder screws...preventing all the air to come out.

I pulled out each bleeder screw and put some brake caliper grease on the threads. That sealed up the threads and allowed me to fully bleed the brakes.

[Wag]

It's frustrating, that's for sure. Keep at it, though, you'll get it. At this point, bleed the left side first, then the right. Then go back to the left and then the right once more.

Also, the idea to let it sit overnight can help. Close the reservoir first, though.

--Wag--

[TruWrecks]

Get a fuel mixing syringe and and short piece of clear tubing that will fit onto the bleeder valve forming a tight seal. Attach the tubing to the syringe and draw brake fluid into it. Connect the hose onto the right side bleeder valve. Open the bleeder valve and push the plunger slowly until the tube is completely filled with brake fluid. Then slowly draw the plunger back slowly and the air in the caliper will be sucked to the top of the syringe. Then take the top off of the master cylinder. Zip tie the lever as close to the bar as you can get it. Slowly push the syringe plunger in until no more air bubbles come out of the fluid reservoir at the brake lever. Repeat this process for both sides. Don't pump the brake lever until both sides are completely bled, or you will have to start over.

That is how I had to do mine when I went to dual SS lines.

You can also do the same with the clutch.

[wardie]

One thing not mentioned that I have tried in the past. Air bubbles can get trapped in the lines. Cut a block of wood and place between backside of lever and handlebar grip, so that when you pull in your brake lever it just barely moves enough to uncover the valve by the spool movement. Put a rubber band over the bars onto the brake lever. Make sure the reservior cover is loose but not uncovered and has enough fluid room for the trapped air to expel into the reservoir without putting fliud on your reservior or lines.. Leave it that way over night. By uncovering the port by the spool movement you've be able to have trapped air bubbles move their way up the line and through the valve into the reservoir. Do this the last thing before going to bed. In the morning remove the block and squeeze the lever several times with a pumping action and see if that doesn't do the trick. Wardie

[kjcili]

I posted the final fix which ended up not being air in the system. Very similar feel, but not. The post is at the beginning in General under EBC brake install.
Thanks for all ur inputs guys,
Kevin