Question about cam lifts with a 1397

[Batman#1]

I am looking for some advice on the different cam lifts when you go to with the 1397 kit.

First I will start with what I have now and what I use my busa for. I have a 2007 Busa with the full B2 Boz Bros exhust, smal airbox mod, a BMC race filter and a PCIIIusb. I use my bike for everyday riding, commuting, twisties as much as possible, the occasional race here and there on the street and I hope to go to the track this year once but have never been to the track yet. I keep telling myself I will go each year but never find the time to go. My goal here is to build a motor that will last with very little problems. I want to do this build right the first time.

Right now my tranny is at APE getting undercut ( Just talked to Jay yesterday and it looks like it is going to be another 2 weeks but thats ok since its supposed to snow here today so cant ride anyways)
Next week I plan on sending out my block and cams to Jay to get the 1397 block with the JE pistons and some webcams plus I will get the high flow oil pump. I will be also using engine ice, duel fans hooked up to a switch and have not decided yet but I will be running either one high amp or duel batteries as well (hoping to get away with just one battery).

I am debating on the lift to get on the webcams. Originally I was going to get the .395"/.378" lift cams that would require the titanium retainers and valve springs. But now I am debating after talking to Jay about getting the shorter lift of .378"/.330" since it might keep the power band lower. The webcams will be coming with the adjustable sprockets as well. Also one other thing that should be mentioned is I will be getting a port and polish job on the head too.

My question to you is:

What lift is better for the street and occasionally blow your friends away?
What would the difference be in low down power?
If anyone here has the same setup what kind of #'s do you see?
One question about head gasket. Should I get the standard thickness or the .018" head gasket?

Also is there anything else that you suggest?
Thank You for all you help!

I just have to throw out a pic or two.....

[Commuta_Busa]

you should speak to the person who's doing the porting/head work. Cams and head should be done together. Since your street ridding and looking for longevity I would stick with mild cams.

[airworks1]

By the way I didnt need dual batteries on my 07 when I was at 1397. When I stroked mine to 1540 I had to switch to dual batteries to get it to start.

[Batman#1]

Thank for the info.
I decided to get the port job for the head done by Ward Performance since they are local here. I got to talk to Mr. Ward himself today and went over the whole project with him. He said if I should go with the .395"/.378" lift cams with his port and polish but he also said that I would not need the titanium retainers. He said he has never broke the stock retainer on a busa with even higher lift cams........So I guess I havent decided on the titanium retainers yet.......Right now I just need to send the block to APE and the head to Ward performance. Then when my tranny gets back I should be able to start the assembly!

On the battery thing I think I will try out the stock battery first and if it gives me any problems I will then upgrade it to the high amp seeing that you didnt have any problems.

[GIXERHP]

Originally Posted by Batman#1

I am looking for some advice on the different cam lifts when you go to with the 1397 kit.

First I will start with what I have now and what I use my busa for. I have a 2007 Busa with the full B2 Boz Bros exhust, smal airbox mod, a BMC race filter and a PCIIIusb. I use my bike for everyday riding, commuting, twisties as much as possible, the occasional race here and there on the street and I hope to go to the track this year once but have never been to the track yet. I keep telling myself I will go each year but never find the time to go. My goal here is to build a motor that will last with very little problems. I want to do this build right the first time.

Right now my tranny is at APE getting undercut ( Just talked to Jay yesterday and it looks like it is going to be another 2 weeks but thats ok since its supposed to snow here today so cant ride anyways)
Next week I plan on sending out my block and cams to Jay to get the 1397 block with the JE pistons and some webcams plus I will get the high flow oil pump. I will be also using engine ice, duel fans hooked up to a switch and have not decided yet but I will be running either one high amp or duel batteries as well (hoping to get away with just one battery).

I am debating on the lift to get on the webcams. Originally I was going to get the .395"/.378" lift cams that would require the titanium retainers and valve springs. But now I am debating after talking to Jay about getting the shorter lift of .378"/.330" since it might keep the power band lower. The webcams will be coming with the adjustable sprockets as well. Also one other thing that should be mentioned is I will be getting a port and polish job on the head too.

My question to you is:

What lift is better for the street and occasionally blow your friends away?
What would the difference be in low down power?
If anyone here has the same setup what kind of #'s do you see?
One question about head gasket. Should I get the standard thickness or the .018" head gasket?

Also is there anything else that you suggest?
Thank You for all you help!

I just have to throw out a pic or two.....

First question, what climate do you live at?
Second why are you undercutting the tranny, did you have a problem?
Third, on your valve job, is he pushing the guides down or leaving them stock height?
As for the head gasket, run standard thickness,
Do you know witch 1397 pistons you are getting, are they 12.8 to 1 or the 13.1's?
Cams are a funny topic, here, im building DnGrumpy's 1441 wright now, and have researched what will drop in. And i have come up with various answers to the question.
By far a 378, is a drop in!
A 395, some say it will drop in,, and some say no!
Im in the process of measuring to see if it will drop in, or not! The ti keeper's are a waste of money if your machinist is moving the guides!
Also the oems keeper's last longer!

[GIXERHP]

Also if you move the guides now, you can run up to a 425 cam!

[99'busa]

Originally Posted by Batman#1

Thank for the info.
I decided to get the port job for the head done by Ward Performance since they are local here. I got to talk to Mr. Ward himself today and went over the whole project with him. He said if I should go with the .395"/.378" lift cams with his port and polish but he also said that I would not need the titanium retainers. He said he has never broke the stock retainer on a busa with even higher lift cams........So I guess I havent decided on the titanium retainers yet.......Right now I just need to send the block to APE and the head to Ward performance. Then when my tranny gets back I should be able to start the assembly!

On the battery thing I think I will try out the stock battery first and if it gives me any problems I will then upgrade it to the high amp seeing that you didnt have any problems.

You WILL need the 14S battery. You won't HAVE to go dual battery but starting the engine hot on the OEM will not be easy. I tried and it would hesitantly start cold but not hot. I don't think my 385/385 CAMS are over board at all. I wouldnt go more though.

Nice rims

[Batman#1]

Originally Posted by GIXERHP

First question, what climate do you live at?
Second why are you undercutting the tranny, did you have a problem?
Third, on your valve job, is he pushing the guides down or leaving them stock height?
As for the head gasket, run standard thickness,
Do you know witch 1397 pistons you are getting, are they 12.8 to 1 or the 13.1's?
Cams are a funny topic, here, im building DnGrumpy's 1441 wright now, and have researched what will drop in. And i have come up with various answers to the question.
By far a 378, is a drop in!
A 395, some say it will drop in,, and some say no!
Im in the process of measuring to see if it will drop in, or not! The ti keeper's are a waste of money if your machinist is moving the guides!
Also the oems keeper's last longer!

I live in Minnesota so climate changes warm and cold and I ride just about every month.

I am undercutting the tranny because I have the motor apart and my second gear was slipping from a bent shift fork.

Yes he is pushing the guides down in the valve job. So I guess that is the catch. If you push the guides down then there is no need for the titanium retainers.

Havent decided on the thickness of head gasket yet......

Im going with the JE pistons should be 12.8 to 1

Also Mr. Ward said to get the JE piston kit with the Napier rings. Does anyone know what those are and if they are worth it comapred to the standard piston rings JE supplies with the piston kit?

[GIXERHP]

Well if you live in a humid climate, you may need to go with a 24 volt starting system!
If it's not humid a lot, a good 14s battery should do the job!
While the case are apart, you should get a set of billet shift shafts also!
With the guide moved you cam set up is what ever you want!
If you do live in a humid climate, i would use the thicker base gasket, you dont want to add compression, by using the thinner gasket!
Another note about the keepers, the ti keepers wear out pretty quick,, well not really wear out but the pocket for the valve shim oval's!
Also while its apart you might want to look into a set of lower end studs!

[Batman#1]

I have the billet shift shafts ordered so that when my tranny comes back those along with some other odds and ends will come too. As for the lower end studs I was not thinking I would be putting too much stress on the block to need them. But I will definately look into them. I dont think they are very expensive so maybe I will just get them for more insurance lol.

Thank You for all your help!