Published on 08-23-2011 10:37 PM
Number of Views: 12300
Ok guys, Since Sous posted up the excellent write up on the Gen II Vacuum install, I am going to show you the differences in between the vacuum and the electric models. Here is his write up. http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii...-ii-style.html The model I have is the Universal 250-1223.
Make a bracket to mount the head unit to, and I installed mine in the same place he did, left clip on just below the clutch fluid resevior. Completely remove the tail section, tank, windscreen, and gauge cluster. Its a good idea to put a towel over the throttle bodies, you dont want to drop something in there. Also, all connections were soldered, not crimped.
Steve made a bracket to mount to the throttle linkage. Just remove the nut and install the bracket so it hangs down, you will mount the chain to it from the cable that comes from the cruise unit itself.
After we mounted the control unit, sorry we dont have pics, but run the power supply wire to one of the marker lights in the head light. Works great. Also, you will need to run the signal wire to the #1 cylinder, far right side of the bike.
I had already completed the Gen II trunk mod before we did the install. Here is the trunk mod. http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii...trunk-mod.html Since I did this, I had plenty of room to mount the new cruise unit. Unlike the vacuum model, it will not fit in the turn signal pods, you have to have room for this unit because it is larger than the vacuum version.
Route the cable through the engine bay, we put a loop in mine because it is so long. You dont want to cut this. After 1500 miles it has not given me a single issue. Notice the screw in the frame, you will want to mount the cable in this location with the supplied bracket from Rostra. There is a rubber wrap that goes around the cable to keep it from slipping. This is on the left side of the engine bay. The screw is there from the factory.
The wire harness connects basically the same way as the vacuum version, run the brown wire from the unit to the brake light. This disables the cruise when you hit the brakes. White wire with black tracer, check your bike with a test light to verify.
Now the biggest difference we found is the electric model requires you connect the VSS wire to the bike. This tells the cruise how fast you are going. If you do not connect this wire, it will not know what speed to hold. Its the pink wire with the black tracer. Locate your gear shifter, follow the harness from the shifter up through the frame where it goes into the main harness. It changes colors so be sure and follow it up the frame. Again, we soldered all wiring.
After you get it all installed, have power to the head unit, and I didnt include a pic of the relay, we just laid mine right behind the battery, wire it like the vacuum version. You will need to test it and adjust the dip switch settings. There are 12 settings, and mine are as follows 1-12, O equals off, 1 equals on: 000011100100
Final Note: There are instructions that walk you through the test portion of the install. There is an LED on the cruise unit itself, with the test/diagnostic function you can see if everything is working properly. Brake, clutch, engage, disengage, power, etc. If the unit fails the test you need to re-check your install. Do not ride it until the test/diagnostic passes.
Special thanks to Captain and UncleSteve for taking the entire Saturday to install this, I could have never done it on my own. I also suggest before you re-install the tail, you should install just the seat and take it for a test to make sure it works properly. BE CAUTIOUS, when you testing this, cover the brake and the clutch in case it takes off. We didnt have any issues, but it could happen. You need to be prepared to stop it in case something does happen.
One more thing, I have not tried this yet, but DO NOT switch modes while the cruise control is engaged, this will cause the bike to jump.
This is a wonderful addition to any bike and I am very thankful I had my friends to help install this.