homemade exhaust,possible

[busa b]

hello,

i'm from holland, and have a question: is it possible to make an exhaust, and if yes, what things do you keep in mind? I have all the material in our company (lasercut machine etc), so that's no problem, anyone has an answer?? thank you very much!!

 

[fstbusa]

its possible but really tough. I"m sure making your own exhaust is going to REQUIRE you to tune it since is all custom made.

 

[gixxer1300r]

if you just desire a loss in weight, you could cut the stock header off just in front of the "X" pipe add a 2 into 1 collector with a 2 2/4" or 2 1/2" outlet and bend up a mid pipe and install a used can. But you would have to buy a power commander to properly tune it

the down fall here is that is you buy a new can, it would not be much more to buy a used pipe off Ebay or one of the message boards, Muzzy and Yosh seem to be the bonus buys here, just make sure you buy the Yosh duplex pipe, as it makes good power and sells very reasonalbe used

 

[FLCN72]

I'd say you'd need to be sure there are no leaks in the system. Especially where the headers bolt onto the engine head. Try to make the bends as gentle as the space allows.

 

[WarBaby]

It's a real challenge to make a system function efficiently AND offer appealing asthetics! This is overly simplified but consider the following variables:

1. Basic design: 4-2-1, 4-2-2, 4-1, or 4-4 design depending on your desired results (each has it's own power characteristics).
2. Equal-length header tubes for consistent power pulses from all cylinders and for ease of tuning/mapping.
3. Primary header tube, collector, and mid-pipe diameters optimized for maximum gas flow velocity AND maximum gas flow volume... a compromise (of one or both) that's difficult to determine and achieve.
4. Mandrel bend construction or cut-and-weld pre-bent tubes. Both are tedious and expensive.
5. Header tube and collector shape, volumes, and location(s) (determines the nature of the powerband).
6. Tube material selection--Stainless, Titanium, Steel, Inconel, each with different weights, weldability, thermal properties, corrosion resistance, and finishing traits (polishing, plating, paint, thermal coating, etc.)
7. Routing of entire system for acceptable clearances.
8. Dyno, street, and/or track testing and tuning/mapping.
9. Strong knowledge of exhaust physics (very convoluted), TIG/MIG welding skills, and $$.

Are you sure you want to undertake such a project?  

<!--EDIT|WarBaby
Reason for Edit: "&quot;Typo&quot; correction."|1076146466 -->

 

[BusaFever]

Reminds me of that ole song... High Tech Redneck...

 

[busa-ss]

I agree with all of the above......but however have completed my own 4-1 under engine, above fairing,so far I am very happy w/the results...the only modes are airbox, filter, timing retard elimenator, pictures will be posted soon.........busa-ss

 

[scobbie]

i did this to my old bike.........1985 gs 750.....I made a 4-1 system. The 4 pipes must be of equal length and the bends must be smooth and flowing. Then I made a collector box added a straight pipe and then connected that to mega phone barrel and it has increased the performance, mainly in the torque area. But i dont know about doing the busa but I am sure if u get some spec from other pipes u could pull it off with sucess.

 

[Heavy Metal]

It's a real challenge to make a system function efficiently AND offer appealing asthetics! This is overly simplified but consider the following variables:

1. Basic design: 4-2-1, 4-2-2, 4-1, or 4-4 design depending on your desired results (each has it's own power characteristics).
2. Equal-length header tubes for consistent power pulses from all cylinders and for ease of tuning/mapping.
3. Primary header tube, collector, and mid-pipe diameters optimized for maximum gas flow velocity AND maximum gas flow volume... a compromise (of one or both) that's difficult to determine and achieve.
4. Mandrel bend construction or cut-and-weld pre-bent tubes. Both are tedious and expensive.
5. Header tube and collector shape, volumes, and location(s) (determines the nature of the powerband).
6. Tube material selection--Stainless, Titanium, Steel, Inconel, each with different weights, weldability, thermal properties, corrosion resistance, and finishing traits (polishing, plating, paint, thermal coating, etc.)
7. Routing of entire system for acceptable clearances.
8. Dyno, street, and/or track testing and tuning/mapping.
9. Strong knowledge of exhaust physics (very convoluted), TIG/MIG welding skills, and $$.

Are you sure you want to undertake such a project?  

WOW, someone with knowledge...

1. 4 into 2 = 2 into 2 into 1 by means of an H and the - part is only to hold together the 2 tubes and give a place to mount it.

2. Done in thick wall Ti I believe the holes are 2 1/4, so come out and angle then go into 2 1/2 asap. and then make a joining cut to mount 2 into 2 to run into the H, to take it into the Mid Pipes. I take it also H brings it back to 2 1/4 so you can have any aftermarket can on it except a big bird since their 2 1/2.

3. Time to dyno and get a custom map according to what cans were made or selected to go onto it.

4. PowerBand to be great throught it all and were it should count most.(if something like that is possible)

Me I would not mind the above in Ti with 2 carbon fiber Yoshimura Tri-Oval Race Cans... or go with a 2 1/2 into the H and 2 1/2 mid pipes for Carbon Fiber BigBird Cans.

Whats your thought on these types of Systems WarBaby?



<!--EDIT|Heavy Metal
Reason for Edit: None given...|1118477683 -->

 

[Mr Brown]

It's a real challenge to make a system function efficiently AND offer appealing asthetics! This is overly simplified but consider the following variables:

1. Basic design: 4-2-1, 4-2-2, 4-1, or 4-4 design depending on your desired results (each has it's own power characteristics).
2. Equal-length header tubes for consistent power pulses from all cylinders and for ease of tuning/mapping.
3. Primary header tube, collector, and mid-pipe diameters optimized for maximum gas flow velocity AND maximum gas flow volume... a compromise (of one or both) that's difficult to determine and achieve.
4. Mandrel bend construction or cut-and-weld pre-bent tubes. Both are tedious and expensive.
5. Header tube and collector shape, volumes, and location(s) (determines the nature of the powerband).
6. Tube material selection--Stainless, Titanium, Steel, Inconel, each with different weights, weldability, thermal properties, corrosion resistance, and finishing traits (polishing, plating, paint, thermal coating, etc.)
7. Routing of entire system for acceptable clearances.
8. Dyno, street, and/or track testing and tuning/mapping.
9. Strong knowledge of exhaust physics (very convoluted), TIG/MIG welding skills, and $$.

Are you sure you want to undertake such a project?  

WOW, someone with knowledge...

1. 4 into 2 = 2 into 2 into 1 by means of an H and the - part is only to hold together the 2 tubes and give a place to mount it.

2. Done in thick wall Ti I believe the holes are 2 1/4, so come out and angle then go into 2 1/2 asap. and then make a joining cut to mount 2 into 2 to run into the H, to take it into the Mid Pipes. I take it also H brings it back to 2 1/4 so you can have any aftermarket can on it except a big bird since their 2 1/2.

3. Time to dyno and get a custom map according to what cans were made or selected to go onto it.

4. PowerBand to be great throught it all and were it should count most.(if something like that is possible)

Me I would not mind the above in Ti with 2 carbon fiber Yoshimura Tri-Oval Race Cans... or go with a 2 1/2 into the H and 2 1/2 mid pipes for Carbon Fiber BigBird Cans.

Whats your thought on these types of Systems WarBaby?

No one can read the yellow font, dude!

 

[CorrodedAlien]

There is a thread on here where someone made an undertail exhaust for his busa...