Having problems with my clutch

justin726

Registered
The way my bike used to be, is that when I pulled in the clutch lever about 1/4 of the way in, the clutch would at least be slipping or almost disengaged already. I liked it that way, so that when I pulled the clutch in to shift, I didn't have to pull the lever very far.

Now all of a sudden, I have to pull the clutch lever in 3/4 of the way in to get the same effect, or feel, of the clutch. I have to pull the clutch lever in a lot farther to get smooth shifts. It seems I almost have to have the lever pulled against the grip to make sure the clutch is fully disengaged. This seems to have happened all in one day. I left in the morning and it felt fine, then after a couple hundred miles (with a few 60mph-140mph quick runs) I started to notice the different pull in the lever

I know I can shift without the clutch, but for 99% of my normal riding, I like to use the clutch.

I took the bike in and had them flush the clutch fluid, fill it, and bleed the line. The mechanic said the clutch fluid was really low, but didn't think bleeding the line again would fix that problem.

Now I'm wondering if it's just time for a new set of clutch discs or is it someting in the (slave cylinder ?). Looking for things to check into to get the clutch feel back.

Bike details.......2003, internals all stock, just slip-ons, 15,000 miles, minimal clutch abuse (meaning no clutch wheelies and no "drag racing" starts). Please give suggestions. Need to try to get it fixed by Saturday.
 
Check for leaks in the system and try to bleed the line again yourself. Also check the sprocket cover and clutch slave to be sure everything is tight. Here's how to bleed:

1) Attach some clear plastic tubing over the bleeder screw nipple to drain into a cup. Dont get brake fluid on painted surfaces.

2) Loosen the bleeder screw and at the same time squeeze the clutch lever. Look for bubbles. Tighten the screw before you let the clutch lever go back. Pump the lever back and forth and check the feel.

3) Repeat until no bubbles are seen.

4) Check and refill reservoir as needed.
 
Your clutch is starting to go bad. Try scuffing the steels, this is a temporary fix, but cheap, or buy new steels and fibers, about $140.
 
Well, I checked the pushrod and also the sprocket cover to make sure it wasn't cracked. Both looked OK. While I was down there, I figured, I'd try to bleed a little more air out of the line even though I just had the whole system flushed and bled the day before. After the second time of breaking the nipple loose I started getting a little more air out. Tried a few more times, and the lever feel definately improved. I'm not quite convinced that its'a back to where it was, but it's close. I changed motor oil and stuff, so now I'm going to go give it a ride and see how it feels.

Maybe just the short ride from the shop to home worked a few air bubbles further down the line and I got them bled out. Hopefully that was it. Yet another reason not to always trust the mechanics. I'm guessing they used a vaccum bleeder, and I'm not sure which method is the better one. I would have flushed and filled the line in the first place, but I just moved into my new house and don't have a garage built yet to do a lot of that stuff in, so I took it to the shop.
 
you said 'all of a sudden' it felt different.

did you happen to accidentally turn the adjustment at the lever?
 
you said 'all of a sudden' it felt different.

did you happen to accidentally turn the adjustment at the lever?
It kinda felt that way, but that was one of the first things I checked. I usually keep the setting on 1 which disengages the clutch with only a short pull, but I needed almost 2/3 of a pull to disengage it with the problem. Setting 4 disengages the clutch nearly all the way at the end of the lever pull. With the problem, and the dial on 4 there was no clutch movement at all.

I guess when I said all of a sudden, I should have said maybe over a 20-30 minute ride.
 
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