What HAVE I done??!!

busa blurrr

Registered
I think I may be in over my head. My rocket has been running like crap for about a month now, and I plan on sending it to the shop for a throttle sync and other tune ups (<span style='color:orangered'>it's a '99</span>).
But I decided to do a litle pre-maintenance, so the shop won't have to do some stuf that I could've done myself. I decided to take off my fuel pump and check the mesh screen and fuel filter inside of it, maybe clean it up a bit. After following the service manual, I finally got it off the bike and took it apart to get to the screen and filter.
Since I had the fuel pump open, I decided to just replace the filter, and I called the dealership, but I was surprised when they told me the fuel filter would run me <span style='color:orangered'>$200</span>ALONE! I thought that was a little outrageous, seeing as how it strongly resembled some other paper filters I could find at any Auto Parts store. Then they informed me that the pump itself would run about $600 new.
So after hearing this, I <span style='color:orange'>CAREFULLY</span> re-assembled the unit, but not after I cleaned the mesh screen. That screen was dirtier than a 5 dollar #####. I would say that about 70-80% of the screen was blocked by a dirty oily residue. I'm hoping that was my problem.
Anyway, should I be concerned about dis-assembling the fuel pump? The whole process went smoothly and I didn't destroy any parts, just cleaned the mesh screen and reassembled it with no leftover parts.
 
So does it work now?
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ultimate test will be when you try asn start it back up. Good luck and let us know what happens
 
-remove paper filter.... and throw away...SHID CAN it.

-you cleaned the screen that sits in the end of the pump.
the one on the end of the white plastic housing?
you pulled it right out? its tuff to remove, but you've pulled it,cleaned it,re-installed it....

cool. Now install a filter in between the pump and the injector rail....

an' you'll be good 2 go....

have a well filtered 1...RSD
 
I haven't installed the pump yet. After I re-assembled the pump I called it quits for the day. I will install it tomorrow and see what happens. If there aren't any special adjustments needed after doing a disassemble, theoretically it should go fine (fingers crossed).
I would gladly get rid of the paper filter, if that would be a safe thing to do.
rubbersidedown, you're right, that plastic housing (which is yellow now) was a bee_yotch to remove, but it came out with nothing broke (to my surprise) and went back in smoothly.
Is there an advantage to installing an inline filter like you said, as opposed to one between the fuel tank and the pump?
The problem I was having was that it would idle for about a minute on the side stand before it would starve itself out. Also, it was hesitant and sluggish coming off of a stand still, and sometimes when I hit the throttle hard, it would bog down for about half a second and then lurch forward (between 5-7K RPM's).
 
If things go good tomorrow with the install, I am planning on following the service manual and will try to clean the fuel injectors. Does anyone have any objections to someone doing this kind of maintenance?
 
Can't remove any parts on the injector, including the micro filter. It's all one piece. The only part could clean on the injectors was the micro filter inserts. Poured some fuel injector cleaner in the injector. Let it set a few minutes then blown out using compressed air. Did this three times leaving the injectors clean and dry.
Service manual recommends replacing seals and cushions. I'm cheap and reused them. The cushions and seals were in good condition. Sprayed a seal condioner on each before replacing them on the throttle body. Seal conditioner is Chain lube or what Mountain bikers use on fork seals Teflon wet lube like Tri-Flow.
 
Sounds like you have followed the right steps, but the test will be when you hit the start button tomorrow.
 
-remove paper filter.... and throw away...SHID CAN it.

-you cleaned the screen that sits in the end of the pump.
   the one on the end of the white plastic housing?
      you pulled it right out?   its tuff to remove, but you've pulled it,cleaned it,re-installed it....

cool.   Now install a filter in between the pump and the injector rail....

  an' you'll be good 2 go....

 have a well filtered 1...RSD
I agree with RSD. I intsalled an in-line filter on my bike a couple years ago. Works like a charm.
 
Have you put new plugs in it? That could help depending on their condition but I would guess it's about time.
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Well, I ended up leaving the paper filter out of the pump, reassembled the pump, then installed it on the bike. The bike started right up on the first try, no problems. It seems to run a bit better now, it's not dying out while it's on the sidestand anymore, and it feels a bit more responsive.
I think it'll take a few more miles of riding until the full effect can be felt, but I didn't want to lay down any rubber until I get the inline filter installed, I just wanted to run it up to see if everything was good to go. Do any of you guys usually do this type of work to your fuel pumps, and if so, how often.
Thanks for the tip RSD, it crossed my mind to install an automotive filter in the pump, but the inline filter is a better idea.
I'll also pick up some plugs when I pick up the filter, it never hurts to change them too.
I think I'll clean out the injectors this weekend. Are there any other suggestions I should try before it goes to the shop for the throttle sync? I really appreciate the advice from you guys. Laters.
 
 The bike started right up on the first try, no problems.  It seems to run better now, it's not dying out while it's on the sidestand anymore, and it feels more responsive.  
        Thanks for the tip RSD, it crossed my mind to install an automotive filter in the pump, but the inline filter is a better idea.
        I think I'll clean out the injectors this weekend.  Are there any other suggestions I should try before it goes to the shop for the throttle sync?  I really appreciate the advice from you guys.  Laters.
buy an automotive fuel filter... one that can handle large volume... I chose one thats for a hi-po 2 liter... its been working fine for a long time.... I changed it out after about a year.
Rubbah's Blue Bastid (2000 Hayabusa) recently dyno'd at 155.2 HP @ a 196 MPH .... very few mods...

hav a good 1... perhaps pics,part #'s and a walk thru this weekend....

it is supposed to rain... may have to ride the wife
 
You've done the hard things compared to a throttlebody sync. Just pick up the sync tool and DIY. It's relatively simple. Pro-Motion has mercury carb sync tool for around $40. Other makes don't use mercury if your concerned about safety around children. Keeping the tool allways upright. It's very accurate.
 
You said the bike dies while on the side stand check your idle may be to low...
 
You've done the hard things compared to a throttlebody sync. Just pick up the sync tool and DIY. It's relatively simple. Pro-Motion has mercury carb sync tool for around $40. Other makes don't use mercury if your concerned about safety around children.  Keeping the tool allways upright. It's very accurate.
yup MOTION PRO, thats one of the ones Rubbah uses.

Carefull not to rev the beast up to high and suck in some mercury... that BAD.

Carefull not to let the toddlers play with the mecury...that bad.

if yer all thumbs mechanically... becarefull man.


My shop is off limits to kids,dogs,etc... it just makes sense.

carb_sync_1.jpg
 
Those were most EXCELLENT photos Mr. Side-Down. But now can you show us one of the Synch Tool?
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?

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busa blurr,stay outta our local suzuki dealer unless you have hit the texas lotto!! theres a guy on saratoga thats awesome if you need further info just hit me up on it.
 
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