clutch adjustment

0

01busa1

My clutch hooks up when the lever is almost all the way out, my local bike shop just stood there with a dumb look in there eyes, not the answer I was looking for, I had a car with a fluid clutch, it was the same deal. Is the clutch the same on all our bikes? mine is a 01. I wish it hooked up right off the grip.
 
I think the clutch levers are set up to engage within the first 1/3 of the pull (almost all the way out). But I could be wrong.....

That's where mine is, and I like it that way because it makes for quicker shifting. (don't have to pull it all the way in before I shift)
 
you can try changing the settings at the pivot-point of your clutch lever.



my local bike shop just stood there with a dumb look in there eyes, not the answer I was looking for[/QUOTE]
thats normal.
 
you can try changing the settings at the pivot-point of your clutch lever.



my local bike shop just stood there with a dumb look in there eyes, not the answer I was looking for
thats normal.[/QUOTE]
Yeah what cache said....thats all you can do....try a different setting.
 
The manual shows a production tolerance of 2.92 mm to 3.08 mm for the (8) No.1 plates and 3.72 to 3.88 for the (2) No.2 plates with a wear limit of 2.62 for No.1 and 3.42 for No. 2.

I would suspect that a combination of wear is the problem. A set of dial calipers, a few hours and a baseball game on the radio is all you need.
 
you can try changing the settings at the pivot-point of your clutch lever.



my local bike shop just stood there with a dumb look in there eyes, not the answer I was looking for
thats normal.[/QUOTE]
This is the answer... It really is as simple as that... hahaha
biggrin.gif


+1

Cloud
 
Also you could also flush the system with fresh fluid, probably won't change the engagement point, but it may.
You will be shocked how much crap is in the fluid


First, drain your fluid in the master cylinder using a large syringe
DO NOT OPERATE THE LEVER!!
wipe the interior of the reservior with a clean lint free cloth
if needed use some type of probe wrapped in cloth to clean the window
(however I don't think you will need to, more likely the fluid was dirty)

Refill the reservior with new Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 -----NOT DOT 5----- fluid
Remove the left fairing and get access to the slave cylinder "Bleeder"
place one end of a piece of clear tubing on the "Bleeder" and the other end on the emptied syringe
Crack open the "Bleeder" then draw out the fluid till the fluid is clear
(this may take a couple of shots at it, closing the bleeder each time)
be sure to top up the master as you go so not to draw air in the system

Large syringe (about 60 ml) costs about $2.50 Au at the local chemist
Use plenty of rags as covers in crucial areas, as brake fluid makes great paint stripper
 
Thanks for all the tips, I will try them, I am going to replace all the brake and the clutch line with ss one's, so all new fluid will be used, I'll see what hapens, Thanks for all the help,
 
The manual shows a production tolerance of 2.92 mm to 3.08 mm for the (8) No.1 plates and 3.72 to 3.88 for the (2) No.2 plates with a wear limit of 2.62 for No.1 and 3.42 for No. 2.

I would suspect that a combination of wear is the problem. A set of dial calipers, a few hours and a baseball game on the radio is all you need.
Or you can take it back to the doe-eyed dent and scratchers and hope and pray......alot
wow.gif
 
you can try changing the settings at the pivot-point of your clutch lever.



my local bike shop just stood there with a dumb look in there eyes, not the answer I was looking for
thats normal.[/QUOTE]
The dumb look came becasue they are used to having that nob to adjust teh clutch cable play. i used the lever but it doesnt help much
 
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