No juice for the busa

Busada

Busada

Registered
Went riding my 99 Busa Sunday stopped and listened to some music.
Went to start it and nothing no lights no horn no starter the gauges didn't even do their thing either.
Turned the key off and the neutral and oil light stay on. If I turn on the blinkers the lights flash very fast.
No fuses are blown up by the left handle bar. Any ideas??
 
I know this is obvious but did you check the battery? When is the last time the battery was changed?
 
The only fuses I haven't checked are the ones by the starter relay, but with nothing turning on and the oil and neutral light staying on I am leaning toward ignition switch perhaps?
 
Busada said:
Went riding my 99 Busa Sunday stopped and listened to some music.
Went to start it and nothing no lights no horn no starter the gauges didn't even do their thing either.
Turned the key off and the neutral and oil light stay on. If I turn on the blinkers the lights flash very fast.
No fuses are blown up by the left handle bar. Any ideas??
Click to expand...

I'm confused.

First you say Nothing happens. Then you say the blinkers flash.

How did you finally get it started?
How long was the bike off?
Could be a bad ground wire. I have heard of them corroding.

How many miles on the bike?
What mods do you have?

How long have you owned this bike? and is this the first time this has ever happened?
 
I see what you are saying. 28k on bike, I have had the bike for 8 years.
I had the motor built by Anderson Drag Tech.

Mods: air shifter, extended swing arm, lowered, big bore, cam, injectors.
That's as good as I can explain the mods without getting out the invoice.
Motor was Dyno

All electronics are dead no juice, battery is new and charged.
The only part getting juice is the neutral light and the oil light on the dash.
While pushing all the buttons when i turned on the blinker the oil and neutral lights on the dash would blink real fast.
When I turn the key to the off position those two lights stay on.
 
Busada said:
Motor was Dyno tested: 255hp
Click to expand...

That's a lot of hp for just a big bore
Surely the starting system is 24v. In that case there is a second battery that requires charging.
Chances are the ignition switch is faulty or possibly the large relay that plugs into the fuse box.
 
Busada said:
I see what you are saying. 28k on bike, I have had the bike for 8 years.
I had the motor built by Anderson Drag Tech.

Mods: air shifter, extended swing arm, lowered, big bore, cam, injectors.
That's as good as I can explain the mods without getting out the invoice.
Motor was Dyno

All electronics are dead no juice, battery is new and charged.
The only part getting juice is the neutral light and the oil light on the dash.
While pushing all the buttons when i turned on the blinker the oil and neutral lights on the dash would blink real fast.
When I turn the key to the off position those two lights stay on.
Click to expand...

So in 8 years this is the first time this has happened? If so, what changed recently?
Sounds like a grounding issue of some kind. That or like others have said a bad key switch and/or relay.

Battery is new. Did problem start when new battery went in or soon after?
Look around for loose wires or one that might be cut and touching the frame etc.
Just for kicks unplug the battery and then unplug the ECU in and out a couple of times - just to make sure there is a good connection on all those pins.
I know you said you had a new battery - but you wouldn't be the first person to receive a new battery with a bad cell or two.
Check the voltage with it on the bike before you turn the key on and after. If there is no headlight on there should be very little draw pulling the numbers down.
If there is a draw and the numbers go down then something else is causing the draw.
If all that checks out you might have the battery tested at an Auto parts store or a Batteries Plus etc.

Let us know what you find out.
 
Could the rectifier have died and your were sucking the battery dead whilst riding.....is the battery voltage still OK.
Have you a multi-meter...if so check the Red wires to the fuse box for constant 12/24v depending on your system, then turn the ignition on and check to see if the Orange wires go live to the same voltage of the red wires.
If not the ignition switch or the engine kill switch have failed.
Get your hands on the workshop manual and the electrical drawing and follow the wire from the fuse box, some of them route through the sidestand relay to power the ECU etc....not sure why the dash isn't powering properly, been a while since i studied the Gen1 drawings.
 
Battery is new. Did problem start when new battery went in or soon after?
Look around for loose wires or one that might be cut and touching the frame etc.

Yep when I put in the new battery it parochially unplugged the black and white wire to the starer relay resulting in over heating at the connection melting the plastic and finally plugging the connection.
Hook them up and bike runs great.

Thanks All!!!
 
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