'08 Busa air cleaner box removal: stubborn RHS electrical connector

Slam_Fire

Registered
My '08 Busa is running rough and I'm in the process of troubleshooting the problem. I'm going to start with the spark plugs first and replace these - it's time to do this anyhow (has only gone about 7500 miles since new). I have all the hoses disconnected and the left hand side electrical connector disconnected. Also the 2 throttle body clamp screws have been loosened.

One more thing to do before lifting off the air cleaner box - disconnect the right hand side electrical connector but it's being stubborn. Not sure how it releases, and I don't want to aZz this up. Any one know how it's done?

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Push on the plug like you are plugging it in, then press down on the release lever on the top of the plug, now it should unplug.. or you can slide the sensor off the bracket.

Some times it's helpful to take an air hose to the connector to clean out any small pieces of gravel that might be locking it up.
 
Just slide the whole sensor off the air box, it's on a tab, and comes right off!
 
Thanks! That was easy! :p

I bought this bike new in 2008 and ride it weekly during riding season (April to October). No other modifications than the Yoshimura R77 Full System Exhaust (and Scorpio 2-way alarm system - not engine related of course). The last 2 seasons it idled a bit rough on cold starts but would clear after a minute or 2 then ran perfect.

(I also have a 2004 Busa which I have owned since new and it runs like a top, never a problem - and now has about 33,000 miles on the odometer :coolcool: )

I took the '08 Busa for an 800 mile day ride last August - it ran perfect as usual. The next week I fired her up, the rough idle wouldn't clear and it ran rough.

I generally avoid running gasohol which is notorious for gumming up fuel systems during prolonged storage.

The air filter looks like it should be replaced - which I will do - but this isn't likely to be causing the problem (or maybe it is??).

I can't see the fuel strainer or injectors being clogged - not with only 7500 miles on the odometer - so the problem is likely worn spark plugs. I will now proceed to replace these and see if that doesn't fix it.
 
I had trouble with mine too recently and just ended up sliding the sensor away from the airbox and off. Eazy Peazy
 
Got the spark plugs removed. All looked ok - except the plug from cylinder #4 - which had a bridged gap! An extremely thin filament between the ground electrode and the center electrode! :omg:

So I gapped the new NGK CR9EIA-9 in accordance with specifications (thanks for the information!) and installed these. I routinely put anti-seize compound on spark plug threads whenever changing these and grease the cap for easy removal next time. The plugs removed were the original ones and noticed these were not installed tight enough - these were actually almost loose. :omg:

I buttoned everything back up and started it. The auto fast idle sounded ok, and after a minute or 2 the idle speed dropped back to around 1100 rpm and still sounded fine. So it was the plug with the bridged gap that was causing it to run rough! I went for a ride and filled up the tank.

Now runs as smooth and fast as it ever did! :thumbsup:


Tools and other considerations -

* removal of fasteners at the top of the right hand side of the fairing to make removing the air box easier.
* clean lint-free rag to cover the throttle bodies to prevent dirt/dust/whatever else from falling into these.
* compressed air to clear the grit from the spark plug recesses before spark plug removal - wear safety glasses.
* it's a long reach to the spark plugs so I used a length of tubing attached to the spark plug when threading these in - prevents disastrous cross-threading.
* anti-seize compound applied to the new spark plug threads for proper care of the aluminum threads in the cylinder head and ease of removal next time.
* multi-purpose grease for the spark plug caps for ease of removal next time.
* magnet to extract loosened spark plugs (my damn spark plug socket wouldn't grip the loosened spark plug).
* multi tester, diagnostic check of the ignition coils resistances, all were within spec. (1 ohm primary and 10k ohm secondary).
* tunes in the garage. :coolcool:

Note: recommended spark plug replacement interval is 7500 miles/12 months.

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Like mentioned above I extend the maintenance schedule on mine. I run mine for 22K or so and mine always look good. The parts guy that sold me the last set told me not to check the gap that I could actually damage the plug by throwing a plug gauge in them.
 
My new spark plugs were already gapped at 0.034" - no need to adjust (and using the center electrode as a fulcrum to open the gap will likely break it :oops: ).

She's ready to roll again this season :coolcool: -

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