Radiator / coolant system sucking air

RedFalco

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Registered
Hello all-
Help needed please. Finally able to get the garage clear to start this pasts winter project long over due. It all started here: Rocky-bye-radiator fluid flush
Was able to capture the "bubbling affect" after todays ride home, which pissed me off to no end.. A slow motion rock took a gouge outta my front cowl then ricocheting off my helmet. Also noticing that it will continue to bubble for a few moments after the engine is turned off??
lol... can't figure out embed code... [URL="
TO BUBBLIE[/URL]

After this I had pulled the plugs whilst the engine was hot to perform a compression test on all four cylinders. Come to find out the rental kit at AUTOZONE did not have the right adapter for the plug (10MM). So off to Sears I went to pick up a Craftsman w/ every adapter available for 75bucks. Got home warmed the bike up again till the fan kicked on - then performed the test.
The compression results are as follows sitting on the bike from left to right. (completely stock engine)
#1 >> 182
#2 >> 174
#3 >> 185
#4 >> 179
Is this good or bad or does it "say" anything that stands out?
Took some more pictures of the plugs as well. They have about 7,000 miles on them and about 3.5 bottles of nitrous ran through them. I read in other posts that the plugs can tell the whole story... I'm personally not that good in plug reading like ya'll...lol time for new is all I may or may not read?? (when in doubt I rule for changing)
Next I plan to do a coolant pressure test which will require taking off the front cowl being that the import adapter for the tool will not go on the stem of the radiator without the duct work being removed... Is this also done on a warm engine? I'm wanting to change all the hoses out keeping OEM. Would that be recommended in this circumstance? Sorry for all the questions.
Thank you very much in advanced for all your helpful input.

1234.jpg


1&2.jpg


3&4.jpg
 
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Coolant pressure test, I believe is good. The needle on the gauge stayed at 13-14PSI for the last three hours now. Engine / system is cold. (not sure if that matters?) None of the hoses are bulging under this pressure so I'm assuming my hoses are good.
Wanting to do a cylinder leak down test next but I'm not quite sure on the procedure of getting each cylinder to top dead center (TDC) prior to testing. Read something about taking apart a spark plug, running a clear tube through the middle then sealing it within the plug. Put the modified plug w/ tube in the cylinder and the other end of the clear tube into a jar of oil; turning over the engine till it begins to suck the oil up the tube and that "should" be TDC. A better way or no.
Or... just skip leakdown and start tearing down to replace head gasket?
Preciate it.

PICT1034.jpg
 
Good day all-
Update... need advice please....please..
Left the coolant pressure tester connected all night. Checked it this morning to find that the gauge went down alittle just below 13PSI. Was checking the hoses when I noticed a small puddle on the ground. (as seen below) Closer investigation denotes a drip by one of the "screws" on the water pump. Should I have left it on all night? Did I hurt / rupture something from leaving it on all night? Or is this where the problem lies. I've never exceeded 14PSI on the system.
Haven't got any responses thus far so I'm taking it that all is normal up to this point in troubleshooting this dellima.
Here's what I see now.

drip1.jpg


drip2.jpg


drip3.jpg
 
looks like where your problem may lie , that said no leak is good anyway .
i have seen air sucked in through hair line fractures in oil systems
yet not allowing oil to leak out ,
i doubt you will have caused it by leaving the pressure tester on , sometimes thats what it takes, and your plug colour looks fine to me :beerchug:
good luck
 
Thank you so much Sir for your reply.
Was beginning to think I was "banned" or had the bubonic plague.
Was considering rebuilding it; but I'm going new. Want to rule out all possibilities of error..., my error. Researching prices as we speak... wow.. those lil buggers aren't cheap.
:laugh:
Thanks again.
:beerchug:
 
On the brink of ordering this pump... Not sure if it is a 99-07 model as the end looks different, like a star / cone shaped versus round. The end where the shaft goes into the pump in front of the engine/oil seal (you have to look through the bag..lol). Does anyone know if a 2008 pump is compatible with a 2006?
The pump in question:
99- 07 SUZUKI HAYABUSA FACTORY WATER PUMP NEW - eBay (item 190497895757 end time May-03-11 12:41:44 PDT)

The pump I believe I have:
WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY - 1999 thru 2007 SUZUKI HAYABUSA - eBay (item 160531993838 end time Apr-13-11 13:11:51 PDT)

Off to drain and pull that sucka to verify.

Wooot!!! 3 kanji's...(moving up in the world)
 
lmao...
:cheerleader:
Special Thanks to the "plug readers".
Thought I was in trouble when I pulled them and seen all the black. Picked up a new set of plugs today w/ new oil and filter and another half gallon of windshield washer fluid....lol
 
Oil and coolant drained; pump removed. Oil looked really good, no cloudy-ness once so ever.
Mission control we have another problem!!
Whilst taking off waterpump, I noticed that the water bypass hose was rubbing up against the slave support bracket I put in when I upgraded my clutch springs. This would definately classify as a "hairline" type crack if not a cut; believe this may also be contributing to the problem as one of the bolts that screw down the bracket showed signs of rust. Just never know till you start breaking her down. Also the cylinder inlet hose feels REALLY soft / weak; that will be replaced as well. Still on the fence about the water pump I found on feebay. Confirming w/ the seller that he'll refund if it does not work. Even with these findings I still am replacing water pump with new. Hopefully this will get it; really wanna make it to the bash again this year.
Here's where I'm at now

waterpump with slave.jpg


cut hose.jpg


inlet.jpg
 
Sounds like you are on the right track. Replace any fishy parts and it should be fine. Keeping the pressure tester on all nite wil not hurt it as long as you stay below 14psi. Leaving it on that long is how you find slow leaks. Good luck
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Sounds like you are on the right track. Replace any fishy parts and it should be fine. Keeping the pressure tester on all nite wil not hurt it as long as you stay below 14psi. Leaving it on that long is how you find slow leaks. Good luck
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+1000 cant help on the water pump front , not that familiar with them , but that hose could be the culprit :thumbsup:
 
old pump still looks good why not just clean it up ?

Sure did think long and hard on that one considering the price they want for these pumps.
When I left the coolant pressure tester on overnight, it leaked around that screw and seam the next morning. Did not see signs of coolant anywhere else around or from behind the pump. It could of came from the cut hose; a slow drip down from behind that bracket onto the screw if you will. I just wanted the peace of mind of ruling the pump out altogether as being a contributing piece to this puzzle. Overkill? <<maybe and probably is. Can't help to think of Omslaws' experience of chasing around this identical issue over a cracked head for three years (don't know how he slept at night for so long...lol). These recent findings makes me feel MUCH better about my situation, but I'm too pessimistic to think I'm outta the woods yet. We'll see.
To think 3 days ago I was contemplating on removing the engine and tearing it down for a head inspection and new gasket. This is a walk in the park compared to that. Seems too good to be true w/ my luck and misfortune.
On a possitive note; If your looking for a used water pump that may or may not have a hairline leak or bad seal. I'll "pay her forward" to you. It'll clean up nicely.
:laugh:
Just playing... would'nt do that to you or anyone else for that matter without exposing the whole story.

Got my new "feebay" water pump that I posted above. (pictured in the plastic bag.) Got her confirmed as being dropped off in the mail today. Purchased it for one fifty-five shipped. Hopefully its the right fit.
Preciate ya!
 
:(UPDATE:(
Parts came in this past Friday. i.e...water pump and new hoses. All went well with install and fitment.
Filled with new EngineIce, rocked bike side to side; run @ idle till fan kicked on then let the system cool ; topped off with more coolant and repeated this cycle 4 times. Took the bike out for a short ride NOT exceeding 3 and ahalf RPMS. Parked and let cool. Resivour was normal on "hot" line then back down to "cool" line when cold. Open the radiator cap, rocked back and forth then topped it off again (took very little coolant). Repeat warm up an cool down cycle in the garage another two times this time not having to top off the system at all. Well, just alittle bit to ensure no air in the system when I put the cap back on. Took it for another short ride still not exceeding 4 RPMs; parked and allow it to cool. All was good. Removed radiator cap and absolutely no room for a "top off".
I'm figuring now that all is well. I then take a ride up to bobos Sporting Goods to get my CO2 bottle filled for the air shifter this time taking the highway. On the way there and home I was really easy with it not exceeding the 4PMS, until a squid on a 1000 flys by me in my lane then tapping his brakes and pops a wheelie at about 70 miles an hour. I move over to the far right lane and he's a moving over with me on one wheel then engine braking in attempts to instigate a run. He see's I'm not biting so he puts his arms above his head putting both index fingers and thumbs together which I took as him signing me as a "pantie waist" (to be polite). Then takes off. Now I don't know about ya'll but there is only so long I can allow the Busa to "keep her head in the sand" till enough is enough. I think to myself... well here is the test for said fix.
Drop her down to 2nd, winding up to 10500 rpms which then kicks in the auto-airshifter upto 3rd. Passing squid into 9500rpms or so then once again autoshifting into 4th as I see him letting off in my rear view then taking the next exit. Seems homeboy did'nt want any bit of 4th...lol
So I get home about 4minutes later to find I'm right back to square one.
:unhappy:
2011 Bash is off for me this year...
:unhappy:
Seems I gots me a headgasket or a cracked head to fix. (thats all thats really left outside the radiator)
Any advice outside a new headgasket when I got the engine out? i.e...what seals to definately replace along the way. Heavy duty parts, pointers...etc?
Anyone in the Nashville area w/ XP on head gaskets? Plan to have the engine out in the next month or so.
Below pictures are after my trip to bobos Sporting goods.
ty

pumps.jpg


Coolant.jpg


Coolant1.jpg
 
+1 on showing him up man. sux problem still there... maybe you have a clogged return line. if radiator is dumping into overflow it should cycle back through not back up that far IMO.. and I may be wrong but I don't think it's a head gasket problem because you are not burning the coolant up it's just backing into the overflow...
 
+1 on showing him up man. sux problem still there... maybe you have a clogged return line. if radiator is dumping into overflow it should cycle back through not back up that far IMO.. and I may be wrong but I don't think it's a head gasket problem because you are not burning the coolant up it's just backing into the overflow...

Exactly.... Its like I can carry around a mighty-vac everywhere I go (I've been doing that...lol) and take whats in the overflow tank and put it back into the radiator and it all evens back out to where I originally started. Only hose left that I have not removed and completely inspected would be the Water Bypass No.2 hose. The one below the overflow hose on the radiator neck going to thermostat housing. I'll remove today after work and take a look.
But still would'nt explain where the air is coming from if the system is sealed, burped and ready. And forgot to mention the bubbles from the bottom of overflow when I got home... Turned on the "fast idle" and could see the bubbles from the bottom of the overlow tank steady and true. Turn off the "fast idle" and bubbles slow if not dissappear.
I've been told on the first post that a seal can be blown in a way that will allow air into the system but not allow the coolant to leak down into the cylinder wall causing it to burn. H#ll.... I don't know. Teardown looks to be eminent.
Appreciate your input RocketHead, cheers :beerchug:
 
could it be something as simple as the rad cap !!!!!!

Wish it were; one of the first few parts I tried.
Parts changed:
  • New Thermistat
  • New radiator cap
  • New Water Pump
  • New Inlet hose (to pump)
  • New Cylinder Inlet hose (to pump)

Beginning preperations for engine teardown. Picked up a 16MM and 22MM deep well socket today to dremel / modify them to match engine mount lock washers. Digging into the service manual; I was considering tearing into the engine to tackle the head gasket myself (with the help of the .Org) but it looks kinda "hairy". Would hate to bother all you org brothers and gals with all the questions and picture posts with each step of digging into the engine of "what to do next". lol
I'm looking around for a competant bike shop that I could take them just the engine and a new gasket and get it done that a way. With my luck, I'm probably looking at a cracked head as well.
:(

Thanks for looking out, preciate ya!
 
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