Busa cutting off and F1 light flashing?

blacked_busa

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Hi, im new to the forums and also new to the Hayabusa. I just purchased a 2005 with 16k miles. It came with a 10 inch extended swing arm, Full Hindle carbon fiber exhaust, Dynojet power commander and a K&N air filter. Its also been lowered. When i bought the bike, the guy informed me that its been rode some since he bought it but the gas is a little old. So after getting the bike home, i rode it down to the gas station to fill it up which was about 3-5 miles. After filling up the bike and enroute back to the house, the bike just completely cut off. After pulling over and cranking it back up with no problems, it started off down the road for about a mile and it did it again. This time the F1 light started flashing. I was thinking it could be old gas and it will work itself out but i took the bike out tonight and the same thing happened. It seemed to do it once the bike was warmed up. I couldnt find to much information on this subject but i came to the conclusion that its a fuel pump going bad? The power commander is messed up or needs re-mapping? or possibly something with a rev limit? I am going to try and unplug the power commander tomorrow and ride it if the weather allows, Does anyone know what this most likely is? Im ready to ride this thing with no problems!
 
Im also new to the power commander and was wondering if it is just plug and play? Do i just unplug it from a wiring harness and thats it? or Do i need to remove tank, fairings, etc. to unplug the thing?
 
the power commander might be going bad, and hope that it is not fuel pump because are not cheap and are not fun to replace.
 
Well i remapped the power commander to stock. I rode it to town which was about 20 miles. It did fine all the way there. Once i got into the town is started to cut off and do the same thing. I went and bought some fuel injector cleaner and used that. On the way back home it cut off once but the rest of the way was fine. Is this bad gas and my lines need cleaning? I also noticed it i ride between 7-8rpm it doesnt cut off but it i ride around 6rpm it starts to stutter and cut off? why is that? Does this have something to do whit the rev limiter?:banghead:
 
Sounds like maybe the tip over sensor going bad too....Check thing to check first. I would get a tip over sensor block off from boost by smith and see if that helps. I had the same problem once. I also have an 05
 
Sounds like maybe the tip over sensor going bad too....Check thing to check first. I would get a tip over sensor block off from boost by smith and see if that helps. I had the same problem once. I also have an 05


ive been having a simular issues lately on the highway after bike is warm. going down highway and would just cut off and few seconds later cut back on as if nothing was wrong also FI light would be flashing but would go away and i havent been able to get the FI code cause it would go away by the time i got home
 
it has been dropped before by a previous owner and wondering if the tip over sensor could be it. But why would the sensor make it cut off at a certain rpm or just random times?
 
check out the fuel lines they could be kinked. (causing a lack of fuel flow)

the pro's should be chiming in shortly
 
If the FI light is on remove the driver seat. There is a white plug with a cap on it and 4 wires in it, it does not plug into anything on the bike. Remove the cap and use a wire or paperclip to jump the red/white and black/white wires(this is safe and will not harm anything) this is commonly reffered to as dealer mode. The key must be in the on position, but it does not matter if the bike is running. The letter "C" followed by a 2 digit number will appear in the lcd display on the dash. If you get C00 then you have no trouble codes, if it's any other number then it refers to a specific part going bad. You can reference any numbers on this site should you have a trouble code.
The picture below shows the plug with the cap on and the cap doesn't need to be removed to access the pins, but it's alot easier.
Fuel pumps going bad and clogged fuel filters seem to be common gen1 problems. It is also extremely rare(although nothing's impossible) for a properly installed and operating power commander to fail. Simply unplugging the power commander removes it's fuel map from the stock ecu, as nothing from the power commander is stored in the factory ecu.
You can also download the factory service manual from this site.

wire%20jump.JPG
 
could be injection, could be ignition... did the previous owner dissapear?

Drain the "old fuel" fill with new. If there's still a problem, talk to the previous owner.
 
Yes, if and when FI light goes on again you need to pull the code and stop guessing. The code will tell you exactly what's up. Do that and let us know..


If the FI light is on remove the driver seat. There is a white plug with a cap on it and 4 wires in it, it does not plug into anything on the bike. Remove the cap and use a wire or paperclip to jump the red/white and black/white wires(this is safe and will not harm anything) this is commonly reffered to as dealer mode. The key must be in the on position, but it does not matter if the bike is running. The letter "C" followed by a 2 digit number will appear in the lcd display on the dash. If you get C00 then you have no trouble codes, if it's any other number then it refers to a specific part going bad. You can reference any numbers on this site should you have a trouble code.
The picture below shows the plug with the cap on and the cap doesn't need to be removed to access the pins, but it's alot easier.
Fuel pumps going bad and clogged fuel filters seem to be common gen1 problems. It is also extremely rare(although nothing's impossible) for a properly installed and operating power commander to fail. Simply unplugging the power commander removes it's fuel map from the stock ecu, as nothing from the power commander is stored in the factory ecu.
You can also download the factory service manual from this site.
 
Did the dealer mode thing. It only acts up if I ride under 7000rpm. I hooked it up and it showed c32 c33 c34 and c35. Which is injecter signal 1-4. What does that mean? Did I just get stuck with someone elses junk? The previous owner said he's never had any problems and of course he would say that!
 
Did the dealer mode thing. It only acts up if I ride under 7000rpm. I hooked it up and it showed c32 c33 c34 and c35. Which is injecter signal 1-4. What does that mean? Did I just get stuck with someone elses junk? The previous owner said he's never had any problems and of course he would say that!

I don't want to speculate, but if it's all four injectors it could be a possible fuel pump problem, common in gen1's. I have a gen2, and there's alot of knowledgeable folks about gen1 fuel issues on here. Here's a bump for you.
I don't think it's someone else's junk either. They may have had the same issue, but someone here will help you get it sorted out.
 
Also the speed odometer i noticed is way off. I was keeping up with 65mph traffic and it said i was going 95mph?

Count the teeth on the sprockets, stock gen1 gearing is 17/40. A Speedohealer will correct the problem for around $100. There is a plug and play harness availble too. PM Pashnit, he sells them.
If you do have stock gearing then your guages need calibrated.
Scott at www.welcometoblueguages.com can fix that problem.
 
It's either your ECM, Injectors or wiring, you'll need a meter, check the injectors for resistance 11-16 ohms, check for continuity between terminals and ground on the injectors connectors, it should make contact or have contuniuty, and check for voltage at the same connector with the starting switch on and cranked you should see 12V at the connector. if any doubts on how to do it, post it here will be glad to help you and not spend a fortune on a dealer for simple troubleshooting :thumbsup:
 
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