Synth Oil OK at 600 miles?

Rocketman

Rocketman

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I know I'm gonna get an earful... but I didnt see the info on this.  My new babe - has 600 miles on it... I did the initial oil change and used the Shell Rotella T 15w-40 in it.  (Changed the filter too.)

Reading the other stuff, I noticed that some didn't go synthetic until xk miles.  Anything wrong with doing Synth from the initial oil change?

shawn



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I've read that you should wait until about 2-3000 miles before you go Full Syn. Just to ensure a full and complete break in.
 
Should I drain it and put in 10w-40 then? If so, can I leave the oil filter that's on it?

What happens with the 10W-40 that wouldn't happen with the synthetic 15W-40?
 
I seriously woldn't even worry about changeing it. Wait until they do it at 600. If you have metal or something in the oil, they will need to see it, if you have metal and drain it all out and then they don't see anything in it, this could cause a problem down the road. If there is metal they can catch it and fix the problme while still under warrenty
 
I seriously woldn't even worry about changeing it. Wait until they do it at 600. If you have metal or something in the oil, they will need to see it, if you have metal and drain it all out and then they don't see anything in it, this could cause a problem down the road. If there is metal they can catch it and fix the problem while still under warrenty
 
I dunno why, but yeah my mechanic looked at me pretty strange when I told him that I had changed the oil to full synthetic at around 2000 miles I think? Asked me if she was smoking? I still don't get whatever voodoo they are practicing or what the mind set is but there you go. I replaced it with Silkolene Pro-4 Full Synthetic, and I'll tell you it's worth every penny IMHO. Runs cooler, quieter and the tranny feels much smoother.
 
When I asked my dealer and other moto enthusiasts I was told to wait until atleast the second service to ensure a good break-in. I was told that going synthetic early would prolong the breakin period...

Revlis...ditto bro, I'm with you man. When I went syn I used Silk Pro-4 and the Busa definitely liked it....She liked it alot.
 
You CAN mix syn and dino oil. 15W-40 Rotella T is NOT synthetic. It is a deisel oil, which is a great motorcycle oil.
I would wait until 2k miles before going to Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic oil.
 
<span style='color:darkblue'>Is there a standard motor oil that you would stay away from then? In a 10W-40 oil, would just any brand on the walmart shelf do? i.e. Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol, Mobil?</span>

It's interesting that the someone said the synth would prolong the break in. Isn't it broke in at 500 miles?

$11/liter is a lot... but if it's the best for the Busa, I'd do it. Personally - I like the sound of the right shot of Rotella T...

What differentiates a diesel oil from a regular oil? 15w doesn't do it. I'm curious...
 
I have NO idea what is meant by diesel oil unless he just means it's an oil specifically for Diesel motors.

Buying Silkolene is sort of a leap I'll admit that, but you figure you will be changing your bikes oil... maybe twice a year, 3 times if your really out there. So your looking at maybe $80 a year plus a filter or two? I dunno, in real world riding conditions Silkolene is prolly overkill, but I personally wanted to put the best lube I could find in my Hi-performance motor. The car gets typical Mobil1 synthetic but the bike, you know it's my baby.

So, if the price is too steep for you then I personally would recommend Mobil1 10W40. Suzuki isn't too specific about much but it says right on the bike Use ONLY 10W40, so that's what I use.

Oh and yeah, I would say the bike is pretty much broken in by 500 miles but Suzuki recomends 1000 miles for break in... Go figure.
 
There are many different opinions when it comes to oils. But one definite is that the synthetic is definitly the way to go after break in.

You cant or should i say DONT use car oil (quaker state,pennzoil etc.) in your Busa ever!! These oils dont have the same friction modifiers your bikes wet clutch needs to operate and glazes up the clutch plates quickly. Look at the grade ratings on motorcycle oil ie. SG,SJ,then look at car oil. Not the same. Sure it will work for a while but does not protect the engine nearly as well as the oil designed for bikes.
I like Golden Spectro 4 full synthetic. Motul is good to.
 
you can use any synthetic at anytine Even, at the firstr start up. The new motorcycle cylinders are nicacil coated from the factory, You don't have to use conventioal oil to brake it in like the old iron cylinder motors in the past. When we build motors at the shop( even the one making over 250hp) the get started on synthetic motor oil from ther first start up. just find one you like Valvoline , mobel one or what ever. It won't hurt the bike. I use a 5w-30 in mine Moble 1, I use 0w-30 in my race bike & yes you can use it on the street. The trick is to keep your oil clean, Change it. You don't need special motorcycle oil that costs a bunch.
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Just another choice.I haven't seen it brought up yet.AMSOIL motorcycle oil 10w-40. No friction modifiers and wet clutch compatible.There is a 20w-50 avalible also.I think its safe to say that all the synthetics are going to give you better protection than dino and a smoother shift too.


http://www.puresynthetics.com
 
the only problem I have heard was with a buddy that changed his out early and he started having major clutch issues....switched back to normal and it cleared up.

weird, maybe it was something else on his but that was what the mechanic said it was.
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I had problems with a Yamaha bike using car 10w-40 Syntec. The clutch started slipping after about 15,000 after I went with synthetic, and yes I changed the oil about every 3000 miles (which was recommended for that bike). I changed out the clutch plates, and the problem came back a while later.

I switched to a Mobile 1 10w-40 4-stroke motorcycle oil on the following oil changes and the problem lessened. Some car oils seem to do such a good job on reducing friction, they may reduce the friction on a wet clutch.

I've had good luck in the last 17 years of motorcycles with non-syn car and syn motorcycle oils. I only had problem with syn-car oils. That pretty much leaves plenty of choices to go with.

BTW. You'll get a different answer for almost everyone you talk to about post break-in oils. Do what you feel better about. I put syn in my busa and my car at the first oil change. It hasn't hurt the bearings in any of my rides yet.

During break-in, the rings need to seat, and that's about it. Just about everything else in the engine requires a thin coat of oil to keep going. Bearings and gears are made to minimum tolerances from the beginning. They will fail faster if they are not protected with a good oil from the beginning. Waiting a few thousand miles to put in a better oil may add a few thousand miles of more "free play" (AKA slapping and rattling) in the bearings and gears. The slower the wear on these parts, the better.

If you found an oil that works well for your bike or car, stay with it!

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