FI light on and dies.. help

[LeDauz]

ok I was riding for about an hour in some what cold weather about 40F. The last 15-20min I was riding around 8k rpm.

Then the FI light came on and the busa shut down and completely lost power. Then I pull over then it starts back up but dies same way no more than 10 seconds later. So I had to trailer it home.

Next day same thing wont start and FI on. So I waited till my other busa got out of the shop and took it in then bam it started up fine and showed no problems. The Shop lent me some kind of Suzuki thing to show the Code for the problem when it does it again.

Is there anything that might make the FI light come on because it only has slip ons and bazzaz and k&n ? or was it the riding at high rpm for a while?

any help would be great. am gana try to get it to put on the code today and hopefully not freeze to bad

 

[Mr Bogus]

unplug any aftermarket electronics first thing...
see if things change..

also need to pull any codes from ECU... after you pull the codes, you may want to reset the thing to clear those codes and try starting it again..

 

[mike1180]

Here is some info about the codes:

 

[jashton454]

Check you battery terminals and make sure they're tight. I had these symptoms on another bike and it was just a loose cable...

 

[BlueHaya]

Check you battery terminals and make sure they're tight. I had these symptoms on another bike and it was just a loose cable...

+1 I know someone who the same thing was happening and ended up being the ground was loose.

 

[LeDauz]

the ground was on good so no problem there

i got these codes

C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
what would these mean?

I hope they decide to be cheap problems.

 

[mike1180]

Here is the manual page 4-35:

I would try the electrical connections first and see what that brings.

 

[IG.]

It's very likely you have a bad connection in one of the connectors - stock or aftermarket. Does the bike sit outside alot (i.e. subjected to temperature changes and humidity)? It is very likely to happen again.

I would go over all connectors on the bike - under the tank, on the left side, ECU, aftermarket modules and do the following. Open each of them and take a look inside with a flashlight to make sure it doesn't have water/oil or any other crap - because if it does you will need to clean it out first, and then to figure out where it came from.

Then, use contact cleaner (Home Depot or auto parts store) on each part of connectors - spray and give it a min to run down and dry (if that was a really dirty connector, do it a few times). Wear safety goggles - spraying in small connectors can throw a some stuff back and right into your eyes! Then use dialectric grease (get a tube from auto parts store, not a $1 pack because you will need a lot of it), stuff it into both parts of every connector and then close it up. Now, that connector is clean and sealed for good against moisture and other elements.

I had a problem with the engine stumbling and/or dying randomly and traced it down to a poor connection in one of the connectors (still don't know which one exactly). If the bike is an older one, or sits outside a lot, the moisture gets inside eventually and deteriorates electrical contacts to a point where all it takes is a little heat and/or vibration from the engine and boom - a circuit gets interrupted.

 

[mike1180]

It's very likely you have a bad connection in one of the connectors - stock or aftermarket. Does the bike sit outside alot (i.e. subjected to temperature changes and humidity)? It is very likely to happen again.

I would go over all connectors on the bike - under the tank, on the left side, ECU, aftermarket modules and do the following. Open each of them and take a look inside with a flashlight to make sure it doesn't have water/oil or any other crap - because if it does you will need to clean it out first, and then to figure out where it came from.

Then, use contact cleaner (Home Depot or auto parts store) on each part of connectors - spray and give it a min to run down and dry (if that was a really dirty connector, do it a few times). Wear safety goggles - spraying in small connectors can throw a some stuff back and right into your eyes! Then use dialectric grease (get a tube from auto parts store, not a $1 pack because you will need a lot of it), stuff it into both parts of every connector and then close it up. Now, that connector is clean and sealed for good against moisture and other elements.

I had a problem with the engine stumbling and/or dying randomly and traced it down to a poor connection in one of the connectors (still don't know which one exactly). If the bike is an older one, or sits outside a lot, the moisture gets inside eventually and deteriorates electrical contacts to a point where all it takes is a little heat and/or vibration from the engine and boom - a circuit gets interrupted.

Very good points.
Sometimes I assume guys know this stuff.
Thanks!

 

[coop65sr]

Be sure to check and make sure your tip over sensor is not broken--- the bracket that holds the tip over sensor in place will sometimes break due to vibration--- if / when it does, it will just be hanging down by the two wires that connect to it... I'm at work so I can't give you a pic, but the location of the sensor is on the right side (as you are sitting on the bike) under the front seat. Pull your seat off and look just behind the battery compartment. If it's broken the tipover sensor will be just hanging down around your rear shock--- I know this from first hand experience...my bracket cracked and finally broke while I was going home one afternoon-- found the sensor (little square black box) dangling down around the rear shock... Sounds like what you are saying.... I could cut the bike on, hear the fuel pump prime itself- then it would start and run for a couple of seconds. What it was doing was staying cranked just long enough to use the fuel in the line (when it primed the line) then it would die and the FI light would come on. This is the case because the tip over sensor is designed to not allow the fuel pump to run in case the bike is running and goes down--- kills the bike when layed over for safety...
May not be this at all but it WAS the case with mine... I just repaired the bracket and was good to go again!!

 

[2busa]

... then bam it started up fine and showed no problems.... or was it the riding at high rpm for a while?

My guess is the high rpm vs. the ECU calc vs. the Bazza calc off the injectors. Thus the codes to all the wire hookups to the injectors.

You turn the key off, memory holds the last sent signal = A code. Kind of burbs up it's own lunch. You turn the key off, same memory is saved = Same code.

Say you lit it off enough to clear the code. Do you have an electrical problem? No. Because the bike, "bam it started up fine and showed no problems" says then, no electrical problems or it would hold that thought.

Either it is shorted or not. Now, if we discuss 'phantom codes' then that is another issue. This is more my direction of thinking. Bike shows no current codes. Lights back up again. You were ringing it's neck out, rolled off the throttle and that was when the calc at the TPS and the crank said what dafact is a Baz Za!

Fact is, I am just guessing you do not have a loose wire at low speeds, but would not that flapping wire hold that short? Or did the wind have something to do with a wire vibration? Not when all the injectors code across the board. I'd say a single injector code might upset the wire piggy installation, but to bang all 4 codes into phantom is more a calc miss-Q or we have a dangling wire shorting to ground.

So bottom line, you find your piggy wire install sound and correct, you can find nothing electrical, I then have to assume a phantom high rpm calc wash was sort of phenom situation.