stripped oil drain plug

N

nychris

Registered
I was changing my oil on my 2002 'Busa and somehow I stripped the inside of where the oil drain plug screws into. It doesn't tighten up enough and now there is a slow leak. What can I do here, just replace the part the plug screws into? If so, does anyone know which part that is called and where I can get one? I'll be bringing this to a mechanic to get it fixed once I have some more information on it.

Thanks!
 
You have three options. One: Helicoil and use the same plug. Two, retap and go one size larger plug. Three, replace the pan. I would go with option one.
 
twotonevert said:
You have three options. One: Helicoil and use the same plug. Two, retap and go one size larger plug. Three, replace the pan. I would go with option one.
Click to expand...

And Four, send letter to suzuki and ask them why in the world they put a steel plug in an aluminum pan? :banghead:
 
:laugh: james...

I would helicoil myself.. if you grease the tap real well, you can just leave the pan on.. (grease captures aluminum filings)

Or pull the pan, replace the gasket at same time please..
 
Mr Bogus said:
:laugh: james...

I would helicoil myself.. if you grease the tap real well, you can just leave the pan on.. (grease captures aluminum filings)

Or pull the pan, replace the gasket at same time please..
Click to expand...

Use a 'Heli Coil'...grease the tap, then after you tap the hole...spray some brake cleaner down through the hole where you 'add' oil to wash out any remaining metal particles.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Thanks for all of the fast replies everyone! Do you know which Heli Coil kit I have to buy?

twotonevert said:
And Four, send letter to suzuki and ask them why in the world they put a steel plug in an aluminum pan? :banghead:
Click to expand...

Now I don't feel as bad that I screwed this up :)
 
twotonevert said:
And Four, send letter to suzuki and ask them why in the world they put a steel plug in an aluminum pan? :banghead:
Click to expand...

And option 5 (for the future) is to buy an aluminum plug with safety wire holes pre-drilled.

STM OIL PLUGS

1530e054-d6d1-45ff-ae06-cd64cf0324dd.jpg
 
And on a final note...from now on use a torque wrench to tighten it to proper specs and a new crush washer each time.:rulez:
 
sorry no idea on which helicoil but if you take the drain plug to NAPA or maybe Fastenal they can tell you which.. (automotive machine shop may be a good place too)
 
twotonevert said:
And Four, send letter to suzuki and ask them why in the world they put a steel plug in an aluminum pan? :banghead:
Click to expand...

Great idea but be sure to tell them you don't own a torque wrench! :rulez:

After the repair is complete, buy yourself a torque wrench and U-S-E I-T!

:thumbsup:
 
GoldenChild said:
I got plenty oil pans if needed..
Click to expand...

Sounds good, but I don't think I'm quite ready to be replacing oil pans myself yet. I'm still trying to figure out how to screw a drain plug back without stripping it :banghead: :)

I'm going to borrow a torque wrench for when I do this next time for sure, thanks for the tip.

I actually went to Advance Auto Parts to get a heli coil and the guy told me that they don't make them this size. I don't know if he knows what he is talking about. He told me to get this other drain plug that is the same size at the bottom, but gets slightly wider towards the top. He said to screw that up and then leave it, never take it off again. There was another screw in the middle of that that you take off from that point going forward to drain the oil out of it (the inside of the plus is hollow). I tried it but it was too small, I'm either going back to get a larger size or go to a different store to look for a heli coil.
 
Hi,

first of all the screw thread in the oil pan has the same lead and diameter as a spark plug with 14mm x 1,25mm, e.g. NGK B-8HS. Any NGK B-xyz will do. Try to get one and check that it works.
Once found you can tell the mechanician your looking for a spark plug heli coil. He must know then!

BUT I'd prefer to get a new pan and I will try to explain why:
If you move your little finger in the pan's hole you will notice a long winding of approximately 1 cm. This "tower", extending in the pan, would avoid the running down of ALL the oil in the pan. In addition all the mud and disposal would stay where it shouldn't. To get out of the trap our beloved little Japanese engineers cut a slot into the "tower" from top to bottom.
Means
a) the real winding's thickness is approximately 3mm ( the pan's wall thickness) which is the reason why you can easily crash it without a torque wrench.
b) the heli coil will cover the slot a bit so mud and disposal cannot get off the pan as easy as before

To make a long story short:
Try the heli coil way but don't get upset if the 3rd or 4th or... oil change will show up leaking again.

And - at last - another suggestion on your heli coil trip:
When done put the screw in again, fill about 4 liter of used oil in the motor and bleed it again. Should take all crumbs off then and costs 0 $ :thumbsup:

Hope I could help
D1
 
nychris said:
I was changing my oil on my 2002 'Busa and somehow I stripped the inside of where the oil drain plug screws into. It doesn't tighten up enough and now there is a slow leak. What can I do here, just replace the part the plug screws into? If so, does anyone know which part that is called and where I can get one? I'll be bringing this to a mechanic to get it fixed once I have some more information on it.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Heli-coil with grease on the tap is the easy/quick fix. Taking off the oil pan and then repairing the hole by welding, Heli-coil, oversize hole/plug, etc. is the RIGHT way to prevent any metal shavings/chips from getting into your oil pan.
 
sup BD its me from C2C lol daniel aka goldenchild will hook you up with an oil pan hes totally trustworthy in my book, otherwise get a helicoil n work the tap with grease like someone else said earlier its easy enough to do
 
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