My 2 questions for the day...

[motomc1]

1. Does the the oil pan "crush" washer go flat side against the oil pan or flat side against the bolt?
2. Am I correct that the "fast idle" lever can only be slightly adjusted? It looks like no matter how much you adjust the cable...the mechanism will only "push" the idle up so far. Unless there is another way to adjust it?

thks folks!

 

[Scar]

1. Flat side against the pan
2. Fast idle will only move the idle the number of RPMs relative to where it was set.

Hope that helps, and

 

[motomc1]

Thanks. My only question on the fast idle is that it looks like no matter how much you adjust the cable under the tank...the mechanism will only move the idle so far. You could not set it for lets say 4000 rpm so to speak. (even though you wouldn't)

 

[Scar]

It should be relative.

For example:

If your idle is set, theoretically, at 1000 RPMs, you push the cold idle lever to the stop, it should (in theory) adjust the idle by (X) RPMs

Similarly, if your idle is set at 800 RPMs, pushing the cold idle lever to the stop would give you the same (X) adjustment.

Does that help?

 

[HillsRider]

It should be relative.

For example:

If your idle is set, theoretically, at 1000 RPMs, you push the cold idle lever to the stop, it should (in theory) adjust the idle by (X) RPMs

Similarly, if your idle is set at 800 RPMs, pushing the cold idle lever to the stop would give you the same (X) adjustment.

Does that help?

I think the question is, can the (X) factor be changed?

 

[Scar]

So, restated, then...can the range of gain be widened (?).

I don't know this, but I can find out.

 

[motomc1]

But...please correct me if I'm wrong...You can't set your regular idle at say 1200 rpm's and have a max "cold idle lever" at maximum draw bringing the idle up to let say 3500 rpm's. It will not adjust that far. OK...I saw a post where a guy said he had his "cold lever idle" set at 3500 rpm's when pulled all the way towards him. My question is this. If my normal rpm's are set at 1200...I see no way to adjust the "cold lever" idle to jump to 3500 rpm's. the "cold lever" idle cam will only push the normal idle so far.

 

[Scar]

Seems unlikely that you could open the range to 2300 rpms from 1200-3500 rpms. However, I've just sent an e-mail to my service writer. He should be able to shed some light on it...

 

[BA BUSA]

It should be relative.

For example:

If your idle is set, theoretically, at 1000 RPMs, you push the cold idle lever to the stop, it should (in theory) adjust the idle by (X) RPMs

Similarly, if your idle is set at 800 RPMs, pushing the cold idle lever to the stop would give you the same (X) adjustment.

Does that help?

The idle speed and the fast idle lever are two separate systems and have nothing to do with each other...idle should be set to 1150 rpm +/- 100...fast idle lever is set to 3500 rpm.

 

[BA BUSA]

1. Does the the oil pan "crush" washer go flat side against the oil pan or flat side against the bolt?
2. Am I correct that the "fast idle" lever can only be slightly adjusted? It looks like no matter how much you adjust the cable...the mechanism will only "push" the idle up so far. Unless there is another way to adjust it?

thks folks!

It does not matter which side of the washer goes against the pan.

 

[Scar]

I'll let you know what the tech says.

 

[Scar]

It does not matter which side of the washer goes against the pan.

Apparently there are two different views on this. Let me further state that what I'm saying here is a regurgitation of what I was told by a certified Suzuki mechanic when I called him to ask him these specific questions.

I'm personally no expert.

 

[mike1180]

Here is how to do it from the manual:

 

[BA BUSA]

Apparently there are two different views on this. Let me further state that what I'm saying here is a regurgitation of what I was told by a certified Suzuki mechanic when I called him to ask him these specific questions.

I'm personally no expert.

The drain plug and the pan BOTH have a flat surface...it does not matter which way you put the washer on the drain plug. The crush washer is made out of a soft metal and it is designed to "crush" to seal any possible leak.

Dude have YOU ever done a oil change ???

 

[motomc1]

So Cable adjustment won't affect the cold start idle...only the screw in the back? Which on mine is hard to get to.

 

[Scar]

The drain plug and the pan BOTH have a flat surface...it does not matter which way you put the washer on the drain plug. The crush washer is made out of a soft metal and it is designed to "crush" to seal any possible leak.

Dude have YOU ever done a oil change ???

Like I said, Rich...that's exactly why I called a certified Suzuki mechanic before offering any assistance here.

The answer is no, I haven't, and I probably never will, but I've never had a service go bad, either. So I trust him.

Don't get all worked up, yo.

 

[Acehole]

Now now boys...

 

[mike1180]

The drain plug and the pan BOTH have a flat surface...it does not matter which way you put the washer on the drain plug. The crush washer is made out of a soft metal and it is designed to "crush" to seal any possible leak.

Dude have YOU ever done a oil change ???

If it doesn't matter then his way is right too.

 

[BA BUSA]

So Cable adjustment won't affect the cold start idle...only the screw in the back? Which on mine is hard to get to.

The cable will only fine tune the fast idle lever speed...you may have to adjust the set screw on the cam if you can't get to 3500 rpm with the cable adjustment.

 

[motomc1]

Be honest. I have always done all the maintance on my bikes and 3 prior busas I had. I never replaced the "crush" washer though...but never had a leak either. The parts guy that sold me the oil and filter gave me one ("crush washer") and said it has to go this end up and I couldn't remember.