TPS/WOT Problem

Mr Brown

Registered
Here's the details:
00 Busa, stock motor, PC3, couple of other bolt ons. Spun a rod bearing last year, put the motor back in and it hasn't been right since. I can open the throttle 95% and it pulls hard. Soon as I pin the throttle (any gear, makes no difference) it starts backfiring and missing. Doesn't throw a code. Noticeable drop in power but it doesn't just fall over.
I jumped the port to check the TPS, it showed that it was off (blip was high) adjusted and set it, ran the bike, same symptoms, and the tps had moved again. Bad tps I figured. Replaced the tps (courtesy of Daniel @ Cloud 9) installed and set it, rode it up and down the road a bit, it seemed ok. Went to the track friday, after the burnout the bike dies. Restart it and it won't hold a steady idle, hunting back and forth across a 500 rpm range. Turn the idle up til it evens out and it's over 2k. Make my pass, and as soon as I get the bike wide open, it starts the same backfiring missing thing again. Jump the code port and the tps blip is moving from center to top position and back without me touching the bike! When it does stay still it moves from center to top whenever the throttle is opened stays @ the top for a beat after the throttle is closed then drops back to center. Unplugged the pc, makes no difference it still does the same thing.
Talked to all my friends at the track, one of whom is a master Suzuki tech, nobody has a friggin clue as to how to solve this. Spent a couple hours (!) with Daniel on the phone friday nite trying to figure it out, no clue. Best thing we can all figure is there is a short somewhere, or the ecu has gone bad.
If anybody has experienced this problem and has a solution, please let me know.:banghead::banghead:
 
I would start with checking the resistance of the three wires between the sensor and the cpu. Note that two of them change colors at the connector near the T/B's.
 
I would start with checking the resistance of the three wires between the sensor and the cpu. Note that two of them change colors at the connector near the T/B's.
Wires from where the tps plugs in? What should the resistance be?
 
I'm talking about checking that wires have continuity, and that the connections are all good. Each wire, from one end to the other, should have (zero or nil) resistance from one end to the other. The yellow wire is ground, so you might check good continuity to ground. You might jiggle the harness while you read your meter.
 
Manually checked all the connections, at least three times, from tps plug to where they disappear into the factory tape. Will check continuity as soon as I can get somebody over here that knows how to read a multimeter!
 
According to the service manual,with the key on and the sensor disconnected, you should have between 4.5 and 5.5 volts from the red wire to ground and from the red wire to the black w/brown stripe.
 
Check a voltage issue as well. If the overall voltage change high or low it can affect the TPS signal. TPS should also be set after the bike has been warmed up. :beerchug:

I sure you through it in dealer mode and set TPS if not try that too...just some thoughts.
 
Put a jump pack on it or jump it and see if that solves it. If so, check your battery, rectifier and stator.
 
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