Starting Problems

M

MentalElf

Registered
Hey Guys,

This is my first ever post so hello to all, I bought a K3 about 6 months ago and about 2 months after I bought it the battery gave up on me, I replaced the battery and all was well... for a while. then one of the spark plugs went and it was running on 3 cylinders, it was due for a service anyway and so I took it to a decent mechanic for a service. It is now running a bit jittery up to about 3000-4000 revs, however that's not the worst of it, it's having real problems firing up, I have it hooked up to a battery tender while not in use and its a decent one which tells me its a good battery, but when I come to start it it wont turn over, sometimes it tries to but others it just starts to click, it will start when I get it jumped off but then you can really smell petrol and it smokes a bit which it doesn't normally. when I hook it back up to the tender after it wont start it goes straight onto maintain after a few seconds suggesting the battery has a decent charge, plus I have checked the alternator which is fine, I am at my wits end with this thing now, its always been my dream bike since I first saw the busa but I am beginning to regret getting the thing now, any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Sorry about the long post but I'm desperate.
 
MentalElf said:
Hey Guys,

This is my first ever post so hello to all, I bought a K3 about 6 months ago and about 2 months after I bought it the battery gave up on me, I replaced the battery and all was well... for a while. then one of the spark plugs went and it was running on 3 cylinders, it was due for a service anyway and so I took it to a decent mechanic for a service. It is now running a bit jittery up to about 3000-4000 revs, however that's not the worst of it, it's having real problems firing up, I have it hooked up to a battery tender while not in use and its a decent one which tells me its a good battery, but when I come to start it it wont turn over, sometimes it tries to but others it just starts to click, it will start when I get it jumped off but then you can really smell petrol and it smokes a bit which it doesn't normally. when I hook it back up to the tender after it wont start it goes straight onto maintain after a few seconds suggesting the battery has a decent charge, plus I have checked the alternator which is fine, I am at my wits end with this thing now, its always been my dream bike since I first saw the busa but I am beginning to regret getting the thing now, any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Sorry about the long post but I'm desperate.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the board :beerchug:

How many miles on your bike and please list any and ALL mods that have been done to it.
 
It's just clocked 19,000 miles and its stock except the battery, which is a YTX14-BS which was an exact replacement for what was already on the bike when I got it. I've checked the battery and it appears fine, can't remember the exact voltage, will check it again, it's started 3 times today with no problems but still juddering and knocking especially when I decelerate in lower gears. I was wondering whether those problems could be related and whether its a mechanical problem rather than electrical but I will check the battery again just to make sure!
 
:welcome: to the oRg. The online manual has a very detailed check out of the electrical and specifically the charging system. You said you were running on three cylinders for a time. You may have more than just an electrical issue, but address one problem at a time.
 
MentalElf said:
It's just clocked 19,000 miles and its stock except the battery, which is a YTX14-BS which was an exact replacement for what was already on the bike when I got it. I've checked the battery and it appears fine, can't remember the exact voltage, will check it again, it's started 3 times today with no problems but still juddering and knocking especially when I decelerate in lower gears. I was wondering whether those problems could be related and whether its a mechanical problem rather than electrical but I will check the battery again just to make sure!
Click to expand...

sounds like more of a prob with the plugs. check to see if the wires are snapped on good to the plugs. One of the plugs might not be gapped right too. You could start with changing the plugs your self just to see if that changes anything. plug change is pretty easy.
 
If you have an optimizer to charge the battery then you must connect the pos first then neg then switch on the power....... because the optimizer will not charge properly if the leads are connected while the power is switched on...

Best way to sort the battery is turn on your head lights and let it run completely flat absolutly no life left in it

Remove from the bike and recharge the optimizer will sort it out
I had the same problem the optimizer kept going on to maintain mode and not charging properly


And Welcome
 
Last edited:
Prezzo said:
If you have an optimizer to charge the battery then you must connect the pos first then neg then switch on the power....... because the optimizer will not charge properly if the leads are connected while the power is switched on...

Best way to sort the battery is turn on your head lights and let it run completely flat absolutly no life left in it

Remove from the bike and recharge the optimizer will sort it out
I had the same problem the optimizer kept going on to maintain mode and not charging properly


And Welcome
Click to expand...


I have always heard to discharge a battery completely will wreck it....
Unless it is a Nicad...
Anyone?
 
2. Basically there are two types of batteries; starting (cranking), and deep cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and have a greater plate count. The plates will also be thinner and have somewhat different material composition. The deep cycle battery has less instant energy but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is only a compromise between the 2 types of batteries.

11. Battery Don'ts
Don't discharge a battery any deeper than you possibly have to.

Battery Tutorial | BatteryStuff.com
 
ToXSicK RoCKeT said:
Mike, you are a 100% correct, DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!!! Yiou WILL be buying a new battery.
Click to expand...

That is old wives tales :moon: so in other words every time you forget to turn your lights off and run it down then you have to buy a new battery :whistle:I dont think so ....The optimizer will sort the battery without any problems if the battery is not already useless.

ive left my bike in park mode twice and recharged it from no life whatsoever and had no problems.. HAVE FAITH :please:

if you do as i said and the battery does not fully charge it is a case of getting a new battery anyway.

My R1 had a battery only 10 months old and it would not charge up same symptoms as you have bought a new battery and never anymore problems
 
Sorry also meant to say about the engine running rough it does sound like a plug has also packed up....... easiest way to find out is start the bike spray your exhaust headder pipes with something like wd40 and look if the fluid is burning off slower on 1 of the pipes if so then you know what plug is gone.
 
Thanks Guys,

have taken it to who I believe to be a trustworthy mechanic and he's done some tests and he reckons the cam chain tensioners needs doing and he's tested the battery which is a mystery to a couple of people I have talked to because if you test it it reads 12.66 volts, but if you put any kind of load on it without the engine running it dies a rapid death going down to 11 volts which is weird because its holding a charge when not under a load. any ideas??? so he's getting me a new battery (got a refund on the battery) and he's doing the cam chain tensioner and while he's at it fitting a TRE for good measure.

Fingers Crossed!:please:
 
You probably have a weak cell, that's the batteries surface charge, but under load it's breaking down. Maybe getting sulfated.
 
MentalElf said:
Thanks Guys,

have taken it to who I believe to be a trustworthy mechanic and he's done some tests and he reckons the cam chain tensioners needs doing and he's tested the battery which is a mystery to a couple of people I have talked to because if you test it it reads 12.66 volts, but if you put any kind of load on it without the engine running it dies a rapid death going down to 11 volts which is weird because its holding a charge when not under a load. any ideas??? so he's getting me a new battery (got a refund on the battery) and he's doing the cam chain tensioner and while he's at it fitting a TRE for good measure.

Fingers Crossed!:please:
Click to expand...

If the battery is failing a true good load test then it needs to be replaced. Personally If I was riding on a regular basis and it cranked the bike I would ride.

Batteries aren't an infinite source of energy. It sounded like you were cranking the bike and shutting it down a lot and that will definitely drain a battery.
 
On a Gen II at 5K RPMs with the Hi Beam activated you should read between 13.5 and 15.5 volts DC across the battery.
 
i'm having the same problem, this is my 3rd batt, this time i bought the yuasa YTZ14S which is an upgrade to the stock batt. fully charged to 13.1v and still doing the same bs. i did a leak test and battery is fine, i'm doing some more test.
 
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