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  1. #1
    adm.nelson's Avatar
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    Just got my centerstand in today and am reading the installation instructions. It says, of all things, to remove the horn, and radiator bolts to remove the exhaust system. Is all this neccessary? Also, Clymers book says to replace the o-rings and gaskets on the pipes when re-assembling. Since it is new, would this still be required if I have to dissasslemple the exhaust?

    Thanks,
    Tony

  2. #2
    speachless

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    it tells you to do those things because "to make it easy" the exhaust should be lowered out of the way.
    the horn and radiator are a part of the process to get to the exhaust flange bolts.
    as for replacing the "o-rings" goes...they are really copper crush gaskets that are "intended" for one time use. if you are carefull or they were not damaged during the factory install...you might get away with using them again. if not...you'll have an exhaust leak near the motor that could sound like a loud ticking...
    they are just following the manufacturer's guidelines for the procedures.

    chances are good that if you bought the clymers, and thought enough of it to ask....then just ask around for some of the guys in your area if they have the time to give you a hand...this is a low ~ moderate skill level task that shouldn't require too much effort.
    it will however provide you with exposure to several parts and knowledge that some Busa owners never get...so take advantage of it.
    glad you came forward before hand rather than after the fact.

    good luck.
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  3. #3
    adm.nelson's Avatar
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    Thanks, I was just wanting to make sure. I do have a friend at work who bought the same Busa a week before me, and he is pretty handy. We might get together.
    Appreciate the info. I probably will have to tackle it this weekend. says it is a 1-1/2 job, we'll see !
    Tony

  4. #4
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    Or just remove the midpipe and muffler on the left side, remove the bolt @ rear rubber header mount in center of the collector, pry on header on left side! slip in big stop bolt, pry slip in pivot bolt, fold stand, snap on double springs done in 20 minuts and don't remove a fairing. Done all the time at the stealer ship...

  5. #5
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  6. #6
    adm.nelson's Avatar
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    Lee, can you explain what the collector is? Thanks,
    Tony

  7. #7
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    Maybe some bikes are slightly different or I'm not brave enough, but I couldn't pry my exhaust down far enough to get the pivot bolt in after removing the mid pipes. *I apparently did it the hard way and removed the horn, removed the radiator bolts, moved radiator forward enough to access the header bolts, and loosened them enough so that I could pry the exhaust down. *I didn't remove the exhaust completely. *My bike had less than 200 miles at the time and I didn't replace the copper crush gaskets. *No leaks. *If you go this route, make yourself a cardboard shield to protect the radiator fins. *I found myself pushing against them even though I originally thought there was plenty of room. *If you happen to have a set of metric hex end sockets on hand you won't regret it. I love having a center stand, though I've used a long 3/8" extension through the swing arm pivot with jackstands in a pinch. *I'd certainly try to pry down on the exhaust before going through all the extra steps! *Good luck. *Let us know how it goes. *In10SS
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  8. #8
    adm.nelson's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply. I went to the Zuki dealer today, and they only had about 1/2 the gaskets and o-rings I would need to replace, thinking it would be best to do so. That alone would be over $40. They said it would be 10 to 14 days to get some more, if I special ordered them. Soooooo, in the mean time, I will just go ahead and do my 'service' that is due, and see what alternatives I can come up with. I saw a neat little item on the net called a Rollastand, for 40 bucks again, not a bad deal. I will probably still get the center stand on since I have it, but not this week apparently. Good tip on the cardboard spacer, I will keep that in mind.

    Looking at the blown up diagram of the header and pipe set up, I didn't see any o-rings, as they call them at the headers, but only at the exhaust end. I thought that strange, but a gasket at both ends. Is that right?

    thanks again,
    Tony

  9. #9
    Rookie slime's Avatar
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    There is a bolt that attaches the exhaust to the bottom of the frame. If you did not remove that, you can't pry the exhaust down far enough to get the pivot bolt in. I did mine without unhooking the whole exhaust. It was tough to pry down, but I got it in. Great mod!Almost as good as the Heli bars
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  10. #10
    adm.nelson's Avatar
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    I removed the under fairing and bracket, removed the bolt under the frame holding the exhaust on, and even removed the pipes at the bracket, and try as I might, I can pry the pipe down, but the bolt would not go in. I get it in about 1/4", and no more. It looks like the assembly needs to come down about another 1/4", or about 1/2" all together, and it just won't do it. I spent 3 hours on it, trying everything I could think of. I had to get a dremel tool and sanding disk as there was a burr inside the hole the rod goes into, and this held it up for a while, but after sanding it out, it still would not go. I 'sighted' through the bolt to the other side, and there was just not enough clearance. So, I put it all back, less the fairing and bracket. Would need to remove those if I get to doing it the "hard" way any way. I am thinking the "quick" method might work on some models, but not on mine.
    Tony

  11. #11
    Rookie slime's Avatar
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    I removed both side body panels, lower wing, and both cans at the clamps. I had to pry VERY hard to get the bolt to start. There might be more wiggle room on some than others, mine had 20,000 miles at the time. Not sure, but I almost turned the bike on its side prying on the exhaust. I loosened nothing else on the system. Took me longer to replace the side panels than to install the stand.
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  12. #12
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    Like most Mechanics will and for sure the ones @ the stealership will do get a bigger pry bar or (BFH) Hey I haven't had and no complaint from any that did it the quick way. Actually more damage, more work, and alot more $$ the rite way.




  13. #13
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    I think I will get back to it when I do the next oil change and stuff. I just did the first service, so it might be a while, but hey, you never know, I just might feel like getting into it again before then. "stealership"? I like that one. Pretty much hits it on the 'money'.

  14. #14
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    FYI

    No fairings to remove other than the belly which is where this goes, and the *collector mount, 10mm bolt in rubber grommet, removed from R side, located middle of collector. Left midpipe with muffler removed as one piece. The only tuffy was the bigger stop bolt which is more in the middle of the exh tip area. I used a 24" pry bar (wrapped with duct tape so no marks) and pryed the left pipe down while working the bolt in. The lower pivot bolt is easy. After all is on and tight, fold the stand up and install the double springs on the tabs before you install the Left midpipe and muffler. You will see there isn't a rubber bumper on the stop (L-midpipe) a chunk of rubber and a screw (which comes in the kit if you got a kit) and your done. it may look like the pipe won't go low enough for the bolt to get in there but did with no harm to mine, the header just flexed rite back no prob. A helper makes this go easier. Don't forget a bit of grease on the pivot bushing B4 installing the stand. * Thanks




  15. #15
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