The Velocity Stack Guide

[TruWrecks]

Spend the money on a +4 rear sprocket. It's a cheap way to add about 5% more torque than you currently have.

[dmrowe]

Originally Posted by MikeSomething

Ok, from what I make of this, you're saying the 4 short OEM stacks gave you more noticable gains, and you tried the other ones and they sucked so you kept the 4 short ones on there? I'm guessing you don't have a dyno sheet w/ your stock 2 big and 2 small stacks setup w/ the other new MODs?

Heck yeah I have dyno charts, the only thing I didn't do and didn't see a need for was a pure stock baseline. The mods done prior to dyno are per the link I provided. Tuskigi Exhaust, PCIII, Air Box Mod, pair valve removal & BMC Race. Since then I have added BST wheels which made a great improvement in handling and acceleration.

Stock OEM (2 short/2 tall) vs. Factory Pro:



Stock (4) Short OEM vs. Factory Pro

[quizesilver]

anyone try the gixxer stack on the busa ?

will it fit in and how is it ?

[Got-Busa?]

Originally Posted by dmrowe

Heck yeah I have dyno charts, the only thing I didn't do and didn't see a need for was a pure stock baseline. The mods done prior to dyno are per the link I provided. Tuskigi Exhaust, PCIII, Air Box Mod, pair valve removal & BMC Race. Since then I have added BST wheels which made a great improvement in handling and acceleration.

Stock OEM (2 short/2 tall) vs. Factory Pro:



Stock (4) Short OEM vs. Factory Pro

Do you have a graph overlaying the stock (2-long/2-short) -vs- the GSXR all short...?

If so can you post that...

Originally Posted by quizesilver

anyone try the gixxer stack on the busa ?

will it fit in and how is it ?

That's what the all short stacks are...

[dadofthree]

Originally Posted by Mr Bogus

you gotta go out and blow $200+ on some shiny billet ones so you can hide them in the airbox and feel like you are going faster.... :flame-on:

I thought those would replace the airbox and just come straight off the throttle bodies with the little foam filters.....

[MikeSomething]

Originally Posted by TruWrecks

Spend the money on a +4 rear sprocket. It's a cheap way to add about 5% more torque than you currently have.

Thanks, but I like my topend and I'm not looking for a wheelie machine man. I'm already at +2.

Originally Posted by dadofthree

I thought those would replace the airbox and just come straight off the throttle bodies with the little foam filters.....

Nope, stays in the airbox, it's not like a 70's muscle car w/ the stacks coming outta the hood.

Originally Posted by quizesilver

anyone try the gixxer stack on the busa ?
will it fit in and how is it ?

From what they said, stock gixxer stacks = 4 OEM shorties anyways.

[Mr Bogus]

Originally Posted by dadofthree

I thought those would replace the airbox and just come straight off the throttle bodies with the little foam filters.....

Now you are showing your age... may as well get a set of flat slides.. (and wrap them with heat shield material)

[MikeSomething]

Originally Posted by dmrowe

Heck yeah I have dyno charts, the only thing I didn't do and didn't see a need for was a pure stock baseline. The mods done prior to dyno are per the link I provided. Tuskigi Exhaust, PCIII, Air Box Mod, pair valve removal & BMC Race. Since then I have added BST wheels which made a great improvement in handling and acceleration.

Awesome, so my conclusion from your dyno sheets are Stock Vstacks w/ the rest of your MODs got you 173rwhp... and w/ all OEM shorties you've got 178rwhp. $10.00 OEM Shorties w/ those supporting MODs get you 5rwhp!!!!!!!!! Wowzers!

[dadofthree]

Originally Posted by Mr Bogus

Now you are showing your age... may as well get a set of flat slides.. (and wrap them with heat shield material)

What age ? I'm just a pup

[dadofthree]

Originally Posted by MikeSomething

Nope, stays in the airbox, it's not like a 70's muscle car w/ the stacks coming outta the hood.

Had a set on my 78 KZ650 Removed the entire airbox

[Mr Bogus]

Originally Posted by MikeSomething

Awesome, so my conclusion from your dyno sheets are Stock Vstacks w/ the rest of your MODs got you 173rwhp... and w/ all OEM shorties you've got 178rwhp. $10.00 OEM Shorties w/ those supporting MODs get you 5rwhp!!!!!!!!! Wowzers!

the rub is that in order to gain the power up stairs, it usually robs torque from downstairs to do it... (no free rides)

you can make more power on the dyno and go slower at the track.. been there done that... my best dyno motor was .3 slower at the track than one of my middle of the road motors... you need best "overall" power in a range you can use it.. you spend very little time at redline...

[Commuta_Busa]

+1 that's why I mentioned the area under the curve.

Originally Posted by Mr Bogus

you need best "overall" power in a range you can use it.. you spend very little time at redline...

[Mr Bogus]

Originally Posted by Commuta_Busa

+1 that's why I mentioned the area under the curve.

yea WAY too many guys get all hung up on the Max reading on the dyno and those motors usually suk for the road... makes for neat jpeg's but you know the deal...

[dmrowe]

Originally Posted by Mr Bogus

the rub is that in order to gain the power up stairs, it usually robs torque from downstairs to do it... (no free rides)

you can make more power on the dyno and go slower at the track.. been there done that... my best dyno motor was .3 slower at the track than one of my middle of the road motors... you need best "overall" power in a range you can use it.. you spend very little time at redline...

I agree but you have to do your tuning and measurement somehow and the best measuring device we have at present is a dyno. I think if you look at the torque and HP lines comparing the two different charts there is an overall gain in HP and torque in the mid range, just to be on the safe side when I had the tuning done I reduced the counter-shaft sprocket by 2 teeth. With the additional elimination of weight and rotating mass I have more than made up for any loss of torque.

[MikeSomething]

Originally Posted by dmrowe

just to be on the safe side when I had the tuning done I reduced the counter-shaft sprocket by 2 teeth. With the additional elimination of weight and rotating mass I have more than made up for any loss of torque.

You're sayin you dropped two teeth in the front...? And the aftermarket wheels ($3k+) helped w/ weight and whatnot...? Just tryin to understand.

[dmrowe]

Originally Posted by MikeSomething

You're sayin you dropped two teeth in the front...? And the aftermarket wheels ($3k+) helped w/ weight and whatnot...? Just tryin to understand.

Dropped the sprocket size to lower the gearing and cut nearly 21 lbs. off the wheels alone. Anyone can tell you that by eliminating rotating mass or unsprung weight will give the equivalent of increased hp in acceleration and will also improve braking. Check out the price on aluminum drive shafts, thought about replacing the OEM transaxel shafts & drive shaft on my car. And you know my poor pea brain trying to remember if it was one or two teeth, now I have to go out and count!

[MikeSomething]

Originally Posted by dmrowe

Dropped the sprocket size to lower the gearing and cut nearly 21 lbs. off the wheels alone. Anyone can tell you that by eliminating rotating mass or unsprung weight will give the equivalent of increased hp in acceleration and will also improve braking. Check out the price on aluminum drive shafts, thought about replacing the OEM transaxel shafts & drive shaft on my car. And you know my poor pea brain trying to remember if it was one or two teeth, now I have to go out and count!

O I know what you're saying man... When I was building up my car, I was actually considering a Carbon Fiber driveshaft. I didn't realize stock busa wheels were round bricks tho. I'd probably need something forged tho, I'd hate to hit one of the potholes on the roads I go down and destroy an expensive freakin wheel. Maybe a set of Gixxer wheels?

[Mr Bogus]

Originally Posted by dmrowe

I agree but you have to do your tuning and measurement somehow and the best measuring device we have at present is a dyno. I think if you look at the torque and HP lines comparing the two different charts there is an overall gain in HP and torque in the mid range, just to be on the safe side when I had the tuning done I reduced the counter-shaft sprocket by 2 teeth. With the additional elimination of weight and rotating mass I have more than made up for any loss of torque.

The dyno is not the best device to measure.. it does make the prettiest paper to look at however.. In theory yes your program works, but in the real world it comes up short..

sure you can tune and measure all you want... the real test is on the track..

you can not drag race on a dyno.. dont care what anyone says, I have seen more than one absolute dyno killer motor get pasted by an "also ran" motor..

sure you can optimize your combo on the dyno, but when it comes to the track? I have never seen a motor or combination perform its best until it has been tweaked on the track.. not saying you can not get it close..

Then you can then go back on the dyno and see where your tuning moved the power curve.. Vehicle and engine acceleration just can not be measured accurately in a static environment..

let me put it to you like this..

IF and that is a big IF the dyno was such a panacea of performance tuning... dont you think you would see the heavy hitter drag race teams with them at the track? really... they could make 4 or 5 pulls, tune the motor for the air and head right for eliminations...

They dont, because it doesnt work.. (and I for one am glad, it would take the fun out of racing)

and before anyone says "it is cost prohibitive" ... take a stroll through the pits at an NHRA national event.. you have privateer guys with a $20,000-$250,000 race vehicle with $500,000 truck and trailer just to drag it around.. These guys are dead serious about winning, if it worked, they would have it so fast your head would spin...

[Paulie1300]

I got a set of small stacks sitting on my self at home, 20 bucks for the pair. shipped

I'll see if I got one of my charts for my last dyno runs, but with a full Ti-force sumo hi-mount, intake cam swap, large airbox mod, air block off, and the four short stacks, tuned though a PC-3 on pump 91, I think I got 176hp outta her with 101 Ftpds.

[MikeSomething]

Originally Posted by Paulie1300

I got a set of small stacks sitting on my self at home, 20 bucks for the pair. shipped

I'll see if I got one of my charts for my last dyno runs, but with a full Ti-force sumo hi-mount, intake cam swap, large airbox mod, air block off, and the four short stacks, tuned though a PC-3 on pump 91, I think I got 176hp outta her with 101 Ftpds.

I'll pm ya probably around next week or so...