02 busa need to beat new litre bikes help

kornbread2006

Registered
:lol:hi all,

i have an 02 busa stock except slip on cans, and double bubble screen, now this is probably a stupid question and asked before but ineed it clear for my dumb a** lol.

what do i have to do to my busa to be able to pull up to a new age 1000cc say GSXR k5 k6 or zx10r etc at the lights and feel confident that i can smoke him from the lights and also if i met one on the motorway that i couldblast past and laugh, ive been kinda misled really.

i used to have a GSXR1000 K3 142bhp at the wheel and thought that my busa would be much faster but not so sure it is even though it is v v fast.
maybe in a different way. more sublime?

any way love the busa so much but feel i may have been left in the dark ages kinda, but hoping there is light at the end of the tunnel and not too much cash involved.

so what mods should i do preferebly cheapest and not turbo, nos or bore kits etc just tuning really. thanks team hope you reply soonas this is eating me up.:please:
 
Maybe the first things I would do with minimum expense is -

Small air box mod with BMC "RACE" Filter
New chain and 41 rear sprocket
Remove weight here and there. (exmp. weights on the bottom of foot pegs)
GSXR wheels to reduce your rolling resistance.
Don't forget steel braided lines and "HH" pads to stop.
Get those slip-ons OFF and go with a full system that will also reduce weight and deliver horsepower, not rob it.
Pair Valve Removal/block and Re-map.
(PairCrankcaseValve Mod if you are gutsy. 4-5 hp.)
Swap Intake cam for Exhaust
Big money - GenII crankshaft and larger cylinders to 1441cc (a totally different demon)
Re-map, re-map, re-map!

:welcome:
 
ok mate nice one can you go into more detail on:

what is the air box mod?

with the chain do i do the front sprocket as well?

why chsange the wheels?? lots of dosh for that no?

which are the best pads ? i ve got braided hoses

whats the pair crank case mods?

and what would the new demon be like and how much cheers mate your a legend
 
Where are you located, mate? UK? I might need a few to scratch out the details in type here.

I have a mate in the UK,, he might be able to steer you right on local stuff so as to not have to pay huge shipping from the States,,

A set of EBC "HH" pads will help set you right.

Here's some reading for you while I peck away
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DRAGBIKE.COM, Headlining News From The Motorcycle Drag Racing World
 
My bike is a 2002:laugh:

1.)Clean and oil wheel bearings(no need to buy wheels keep bearings oiled and lower rolling resistance)
2.)EKDRZ light weight chain
3.)16/42 front/rear sprockets
4.)Get ECU flashed and bike tuned
5.)get an airshifter
6.)lower bike and add some extensions
7.)get a full exhaust system(something that makes good power;Hindle,Muzzy,Yoshimura) not the bling bling pipes a good performance one
8.)Add intake cam on exhaust or web on exhaust
9.)air box mod (go to Brock's website and look at the instructions on how)
10.)And if you want to blow'em away add a lil shot of NOS. All you'll ned is a 26shot

Your bike is set up as a cruiser, set it up on kill and you'll be able to brush them gen2's up:beerchug:

If that dont work, get the gen2 crank for a 1340, or add 3mm pistons 1397, or both for a 1441. Thats what I did. At 300lbs I can let a gen2 or new grand hit and run by them like we going opposite ways.:whistle:

I know that will stir up some controversy but its the truth:beerchug:
 
Okay, here's a few pics of my air box. You can see the cut out area of the floor.
Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+re1251496382.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+BMC+RACE+lifted1251496398.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+interior1251496408.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+valve+bottom1251496439.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+valve+installed1251496449.jpg


I don't agree with the bearings bit, because your stock bearings are fine with the miles you have on them. Don't waste your time and efforts that way. If you opted for 'Ceramic' bearings they would give negligible amounts of improvements and cost a good 500USD.

For the same dollar amounts or a tad bit more,, you could have the Gixxer wheels and be reducing that weight straight away,, and even though you would THEN have to use the GSXR wheels could give a good bathe of lube to ensure good passage.

Oh yeah,, cut back on a few chips to shrink that waistline! :laugh:

One thing though, it will ALWAYS come down to the rider,, no maaaatter how much you dump into your bike,,, the next guy may have a fast bike,, but you will certainly beat his arse with better talents!
 
What kind of riding do you do? Straight line/no twisties? Twisties and rarely straight line except to get yourself home?

The reason I ask is that if you do have twisties,, you do not want to set yourself up in a lower stance. You will drag your hard parts all over the road,,, and not to mention yourself into a bucket.

Straight line riding, cool. Go low.

Chicken strips! :laugh:

Number 4
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Ecueditor 2.0 - trial version and interface harness
 
At the light, you've been given some good advice. For the 2K you spoke of you can get the cam and piston mod that will give you a reportedly 200+ RWHP on the Gen I.

On the highway, you own them shortly after they hit 150 MPH or 241 KMH
 
Lighten the bike as much as you can. Full exhaust alone will save you anywhere from 20lbs to 25lbs. depending if you go with Full Titanium. I have saved just a bit over 30lbs. without replacing the stock exhaust.

Enhance the Busa's horsepower. Exhaust will not only save you weight but will net another 8hp to 10hp. If anyone says that exhaust will net you more on a Gen I Busa is a bit optimistic. The Gen I Busas are very mild so bolt-ons are not going to give huge boosts of power but the right selection of parts and tune can make it run the best it can. Tune for the road and do not get hung up on dyno #s as they can be misleading.

Airbox mod, BMC Race air filter, pair valve removal, crankcase filter, Ultra Clutch mod, synthetic oil, ECU editor(programmer), vortex lighten 16t front sprocket and Vortex rear sprocket(depends on your size and how much top-end you are willing to lose). Use MR9 race fuel as this can net another 4-6hp peak. Unfortunately, this fuel needs to be drained and flushed out soon after you have used it against your enemies. :lol:

All of this is inexpensive and can be done piece by piece as well as installed by yourself. Good luck and have fun!
 
40 shot and he's history,but you can almost do it with just sprockets,full exhaust and a good tune.
 
17/42 sprocket setup (Don't drop the front tooth to a 16 if you're going from a dig)
Small Airbox MOD (Removing that stupid Flapper)
Power Commander to Remap
Single Canned Full Exhaust System
 
Okay, here's a few pics of my air box. You can see the cut out area of the floor.
Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+re1251496382.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+BMC+RACE+lifted1251496398.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+interior1251496408.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+valve+bottom1251496439.jpg

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+valve+installed1251496449.jpg


I don't agree with the bearings bit, because your stock bearings are fine with the miles you have on them. Don't waste your time and efforts that way. If you opted for 'Ceramic' bearings they would give negligible amounts of improvements and cost a good 500USD.

For the same dollar amounts or a tad bit more,, you could have the Gixxer wheels and be reducing that weight straight away,, and even though you would THEN have to use the GSXR wheels could give a good bathe of lube to ensure good passage.

Oh yeah,, cut back on a few chips to shrink that waistline! :laugh:

One thing though, it will ALWAYS come down to the rider,, no maaaatter how much you dump into your bike,,, the next guy may have a fast bike,, but you will certainly beat his arse with better talents!

Air box mod:
Get rid of that bottom flapper valve. Take a small peice of plastic sheeting and epoxy it over the whole. Take a bicycle inner tube cut and wrap around the intake ducts for your air box and use elect. tape to hold in place. This will fill in gaps where the trashy foam gasket is. Last take crank case vent off airbox and use a filter on crank case vent coming from engine. Plug all lines coming from airbox except line to the throttlebodies. I did this mistake and bike wouldnt run.

Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+re1251496382.jpg


View attachment Hayabusa+AIR+BOX+BMC+RACE+lifted1251496398.jpg
 
4.)Get ECU flashed and bike tuned
5.)get an airshifter
6.)lower bike and add some extensions
8.)Add intake cam on exhaust or web on exhaust


ECU= have ecu flashed my a good high performance shop, some dealerships offer this too.Suzuki City does.You can mail it in to get done. All good shops are able to do this. Powercommanders are a thing of the past. Remove old timing restrictions(no need for tre's, remove speed restriction and increase rev limiter setting).No more 10,800 rev limiter or 186mph restriction:laugh:

Airshifter=quicker shifts without getting off the throttle is a big advantage. At least 2tenths in qtr mile. Then you can concentrate on keeping the bike straight and leave as hard as you can without trying to get your foot on the peg for the 1-2shift. A must for a big rider:laugh:

low & long= get some dogbones and lower the bike some, cut the foam out of the stock seat to lower you some more and get a set of bolt on extensions to extend the wheelbase. Busa's are assasins at 64-66inches. Any longet and it tends to spin alot without a real good clutch hand or custom shock and good tire. Run a Shinko 003(u-soft or stealth) and it'll be fine.

intake cam= adding a stock intake cam on the exhaust side with adjustable sprockets ALWAYS picks up hp and torque because of the extra lift of the intake cam over the profile of the exhaust cam. this is a cheap one($50-$100 for cam and $85 for adj sprockets). if you can afford it get a custom grind web cam for the exhaust. it will give the noticable whoop...whoop...whoop....whoop idle we all like to hear. And give ALOT more hp and torque. Web cams are usually $500-$700 for a set. But you can get away with using one on the exhaust.


If all these things are done a gen1 will give those gen2's hell. And with a shot of NOS:laugh: GAME OVER:beerchug:
 
Just dont tell kingofdaCoast.. his gen2 dont count. That thing is a beast.
Just buy a Gen2 :beerchug:

why do that when they cant whip this Gen1:rofl::poke:

Plus, its also been proven that the Gen2 cannot handle excessive amounts of NOS. Quess what cylinders they are putting on them:whistle::rofl:

hey...where them crickets came from:laugh:

I know this will start up some confusion. Its been too quite on here???
 
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