ECU Interface Install

ssgunny

Registered
Got my package from smithabusa late last week and installed the hardware last night. Here is the 34 pin connector being worked on.

Wiring Up 34 Pin Connector.jpg
 
I had an issue with the brown wire not seating right which would not allow me to lock the connector back down. A pair of small needle nose helped convince it otherwise. Here it is installed.

34 Pin Connector Completed.jpg
 
Here the shift light is connected to the VCSV output that use to connect to the removed flapper valve. Once I get the application loaded on my PC I will attempt my first flash of the ECU.

Shift Light Connected.jpg
 
:thumbsup: Greg makes a very simplistic installation. :thumbsup:
No cutting or splicing makes it too easy. I thought that I was going to have to reuse the connector that was on the wire going to the flapper valve on the shift light until I saw it came with one already. :easy:
 
I ran the bike after the install to make sure that it started before I went go any further. The shift light works...ya think? There is current on the line from idle up to about 2,500 rpm and then the light goes out. This is the same current that kept the flapper close up until 2,500 rpm.

Next is to mod a file and flash the ECU.

Shift Light Works.jpg
 
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so does the light work as just a shift light only?

do you set it up in programming not to come on till shift point if line has current from 2500rpm down?
 
so does the light work as just a shift light only?

do you set it up in programming not to come on till shift point if line has current from 2500rpm down?
In my case it will only work as a shift light. The same line can provide voltage for nitrous window switch also. It controls one item or the other. There is a setting in advanced options in the ECU editor to change the RPM values for when to start the voltage and when to stop it....without explaining it any further if you go to smithabusas site he has a few tutorials that gives a good overview of it.

I reflashed my ECU last night and the light does not come on at idle to 2,500 rpm anymore. I have not riden it yet to test the new setting but it is programmed to light off at 10,500. Below are the VERY basic changes I have done since this was my first time.

Removed speed limiter (default when moding a new map)
Set the rev limiter at 11,200 from 10,800 (left as soft cut)
Set shift light to 10,500 and since there is an end field I set it at 11,200 but I probably could have left it at 2,500 (or whatever it is at) and it would have been fine.
There is also a setting that I enabled to allow the voltage only to activate when the TPS is at 85% or greater. More suited for nitrous I don't think that is someting I will see (i.e. why would I run it up to 10,500 at half throttle).
 
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I took the bike to the track and the shift works beautifully. My launches are something to be desired though.
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the only problem that I have had with the shift light feature is that sometimes if I hover the throttle for long periods at higher rpms, the shiftlite will illuminate even though I'm not anywhere near the 10,200 that I have it set at. This was easily solved buy using the >85% throttle feature though. And just for the record, according to dyno-shift programs, the optimum shift point for a basically stock 99-07 busa is right around 10,300rpms, so if you've got your light set at 10,500 and factor is reaction time, you're really over revving her unless you've got cams or headwork. If you set the light at 10,000-10,200 then you should be shifting right on time. :thumbsup:
 
That seems to make sense. I guess torque is going nowhere but down waiting that long to shift.

The first few shifts on my first run I thought there was something wrong with the light since it was not coming on. Then I realized my hand position on the throttle was not correct so I was unable to achieve 85%. If I was serious I would do the R6 throttle mod.

I can ask this in the hacking forum but where do I look for a map I already created and flashed?
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Unless you saved the map, it wont be anywhere after you exit ecueditor. You have to tell it to save the map. What I do is save the map in its own folder with a text file telling me all the perimeters of that map so that I dont have to load it to know which map it is.
 
Unless you saved the map, it wont be anywhere after you exit ecueditor. You have to tell it to save the map. What I do is save the map in its own folder with a text file telling me all the perimeters of that map so that I dont have to load it to know which map it is.
Understood and thanks. I will have to start over but there is not a lot of settings to modify about.
 
thats really the ONLY negative that I can find with ecueditor is the fact that you cant read the map thats currently on the ecu...only modify and flash a new one. :(
 
thats really the ONLY negative that I can find with ecueditor is the fact that you cant read the map thats currently on the ecu...only modify and flash a new one. :(
The guru's that hacked it will figure out how if not for our year then the gen II's.

So if you modify a map and save it can you reopen it to view the setting and remodify it?
 
The guru's that hacked it will figure out how if not for our year then the gen II's.

So if you modify a map and save it can you reopen it to view the setting and remodify it?

yes sir, you can save and do anything you want with it...you just cant read whats on the ecu.:thumbsup:
 
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