Launching

[Professor]

(GoldenChild @ April 09 2006,08:53) Take off with your foot on the shifter side or reverse, your shift pattern.

I was thinking about taking off with the left foot on the peg, but was not sure if it would affect my ability to launch straight. I hadn't thought about reversing the shifter. Will the stock parts flip ? Now the next question. Will habit come into play with my downshifting? Heck, I’m a newbie at all of this and throwing something else for my nimble mind to have to remember going down the track may be an issue.

I have two bigger issues than getting my foot up. Mainly my 60’ times suck. I’m not rolling the throttle on quick enough on the start. The second is my reaction time. I ran two classes, one was on a pro tree and the other was a full tree. My reaction times were not good but running on a different tree each round didn’t help my learning curve any. I really hope to get it where I can run the 9.90 class. I ran two classes for the seat time. No doubt I need it. The bike is capable but I’m not sure I am. I need way more seat time than I may have time for. They are running a 6 race series (5 in OK, 1 in KS) I hope to run all 6.  

I first ran it last fall. Lowered 1â€, with pipe, Pilot Power rear, 17/40, I went 10.55 @ 138 with 1.835 60’ (however most were in the 1.94-2.06 range. Never drag raced a bike before so I was happy.  Went out this time lowered 2.25 rear, front lowered 1†but strapped and pulled down another 1-1 ¼â€ or so, 16/40, MT rear @ 20lbs, shift light, rear shock rebound @ 0 clicks. Best runs were in the 10.20s  (10.24 10.28 10.26) with 60s in the 1.83-1.86 range. I think the biggest thing is the fear of looping it out on the start. I’m launching about 6500, slipping the clutch. I’m not rolling on full throttle to about 40’ or so. I truly believe there is easily 2 tenths in the 60’. I ran another busa in eliminations and his 60’ was 1.68 so I know it is me.

 

[Pipefighter248]

Take off with your foot on the shifter side or reverse, your shift pattern.

I was thinking about taking off with the left foot on the peg, but was not sure if it would affect my ability to launch straight. I hadn't thought about reversing the shifter. Will the stock parts flip ? No the next question. Will habit come into play with my downshifting? Heck, I’m a newbie at all of this and throwing something else for my nimble mind to have to remember going down the track may be an issue.

I have two bigger issues than getting my foot up. Mainly my 60’ times suck. I’m not rolling the throttle on quick enough on the start. The second is my reaction time. I ran two classes, one was on a pro tree and the other was a full tree. My reaction times were not good but running on a different tree each round didn’t help my learning curve any. I really hope to get it where I can run the 9.90 class. I ran two classes for the seat time. No doubt I need it. The bike is capable but I’m not sure I am. I need way more seat time than I may have time for. They are running a 6 race series (5 in OK, 1 in KS) I hope to run all 6.

I first ran it last fall. Lowered 1â€, with pipe, Pilot Power rear, 17/40, I went 15.55 @ 138 with 1.835 60’ (however most were in the 1.94-2.06 range. Never drag raced a bike before so I was happy. Went out this time lowered 2.25 rear, front lowered 1†but strapped and pulled down another 1-1 ¼â€ or so, 16/40, MT rear @ 20lbs, shift light, rear shock rebound @ 0 clicks. Best runs were in the 10.20s (10.24 10.28 10.26) with 60s in the 1.83-1.86 range. I think the biggest thing is the fear of looping it out on the start. I’m launching about 6500, slipping the clutch. I’m not rolling on full throttle to about 40’ or so. I truly believe there is easily 2 tenths in the 60’. I ran another busa in eliminations and his 60’ was 1.68 so I know it is me.

Never drag raced, but the stock parts will flip to reverse the pattern.

 

[gixxer2k1000]

Professor, Are you stock wheelbase? If so ditch the Mickey and get a race scuff or a shinko you really dont need that bite with a stock wheelbase, also run as much air in the tire as possible without spinning.And then just Practice,Practice ,Practice.

 

[fstbusa]

believe me if you don't have a problem getting your foot up then you aren't launching hard enough. I couldn't get my foot up in time to make the 1-2 shift so I had to start leaving with my foot on the peg. Once you get used to it, it works great!!!

Plus its alot cheaper than an air shifter.

edit:// I've heard for every 10th you can drop your 60 you cut 2-3 tenths on the far end....... something to think about!!



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[Professor]

Professor, Are you stock wheelbase? If so ditch the Mickey and get a race scuff or a shinko you really dont need that bite with a stock wheelbase, also run as much air in the tire as possible without spinning.And then just Practice,Practice ,Practice.

Yes, stock wheelbase. I've got a a Shinko, but had planned on using the MT up first. Yes, it does bite hard. So do you think I'm getting too much bite or I just don't need that much tire?

 

[Professor]

believe me if you don't have a problem getting your foot up then you aren't launching hard enough.  I couldn't get my foot up in time to make the 1-2 shift so I had to start leaving with my foot on the peg.  Once you get used to it, it works great!!!

Plus its alot cheaper than an air shifter.

edit:// I've heard for every 10th you can drop your 60 you cut 2-3 tenths on the far end....... something to think about!!

I think I"ll give the one foot launch a shot. I'm really hesitant to go to an air shifter.

 

[fstbusa]

I didn't get an airshifter because I ride my bike 90% of the time on the street. I just hit up the strip for fun and decided an airshifter just wasn't worth the money for the little it would get used.

 

[Tetge]

I have always launched with the shifter foot on the peg. A couple of times the bike got really loose right at the hit of the throttle, and, I was able to control it, so I do not worry anymore about needing to have both feet down. My bike's suspension is all set up for canyon carving and it has stock OEM tires on it, but, it usually does not spin too bad on launch with 35 PSI cold in the back tire.
I have been practicing for about the past 9 months but I still can not launch my bike. I am going to chalk this up to lack of talent. The only thing the practice has done is make me less concerned with the power of the bike and more consistent with my weak launches. Last Friday, my best 60' time was 1.826 at LACR. But, all but one of my 60' times were 1.8x, so I am getting more consistent. Every single time that I decide to hammer it out of the hole in an attmept to break through to a better 60', I pull a wheelie and blow the run. I went back to the stock gears which actually helped since they hit softer in 1st. But, the line between wheelie and success is a very delicate one.

 

[ofcford]

As much as you don't want to, you need to slip the clutch. You should be at or near WOT at about the tree,(depends on the track.) Full clutch release way before the 60' . You should power past the wheelie, but expect the bike to rise near  high RPM in 1st. Be sure to have the front straped, as it helps to keep the forks from bouncing up. Your tire is excelent for racing but you probably have more tire than you need. The M/T is a soft sided tire and should not be used on the street or at higher pressures. The shrinko is a good compromise. Like someone else said, keep the tire pressure as high as you can and still not have wheel spin, start around 18 psi, and go up or down.( Again, depends on the track.)
I was able to get 10.16@137 with stock motor, stock cans, stock tire, and stock length, 16 front, With consistant 60s in the low 1.70s  ( I have improved with some minor mods) As for the air shifter,it is SOOOO sweet!!, it should not effect your day to day driving, just remeber not to activated while you are parked. ( I always emty my system after each race.)

 

[Professor]

Update.... Launching with the left foot on the peg seems to be working. 60's are dropping. I'm still not getting on full throttle quick enough. Even at 230 pounds, I think I can get it in the 9s, on the stock arm with no air shifter. I’m going to keep trying anyhow.

My best et even though MPH was down by about 1mph
rt .026
60 1.739
330 4.412
1/8 6.620
MPH 111.220
1000 8.545
1/4 10.199
MPH 136.050

My best launch. I felt I was going to break out so I let way out of it on the big end as I had him pretty well covered with the RT. It should have been at least a 10.12/10.14 pass
rt .000
60 1.706
330 4.366
1/8 6.576
MPH 110.600
1000 8.499
1/4 10.304
MPH 123.500



Today I'm swapping from a 16/40 to a 16/42 with a ZZZ, installing a Brock ultra light clutch mod, and putting on a fiberglass drag seat.
I'm still happy with MT even if it is more tire than I need. I think I'll sell the Shinko, as the MT is consistent, seems to take less of a burnout than the Shinko, it weighs about 7lbs less and I don't ride the drag tire on the street. It hooks good with a 5 second mini burn out.

I've never had the MT slip with 20lbs, it has slipped once with 25lbs. I'm going to drop to 22-23. Bumped up the front to 44lbs to improve vehicle RT. my RTs in eliminations in order .008 .017 -.003 .005 .000 .026 .057 .160 .060. On the 160 the clutch seemed to grab while the lights were coming down, pulling the bike forward, and I intentionally delayed. I had already redlighted on a bye run and didn’t want to do it when it counted. Lost that class on that round in the quarter finals. When it got to the last few rounds they were almost back to back. I was getting tired toward the end and it shows. It was about 1:00 AM when I lost in the Semis in the other class. This was the tire slip, I had a 060/he had a 063 light. I spun near the 60’ (dew maybe) and couldn’t run my number. When it got to the last few rounds they were almost back to back.

All in all improvement, but there is room for more.

 

[Professor]

Where I’m at now.

Full Yosh, PC, Mapped, Stock airbox, MT Shootout tire with 20-25lbs depending on conditions. Front dropped 1 ¼ with genmars and strapped another 1 ½ or so. Rear down about 2.5, stock arm, fiberglass drag seat, 16/42 gearing, Brocks ultra clutch mod, shift light set @ 10,600, no air shift, 87 octane, me weighing 230#s, rebound on rear shock set @ 0 clicks, launching with left foot on the peg to get 1-2 shift.

Went out last night, ran a easy launch to begin with to check out the clutch mod.. 10.36 then 10.25 10.20 10.22 10.12 10.29 (spin)  10.16 (dropped 2lbs psi rear)


The 10.20s were leaving @ 5500-6000 rpm the last 3 were leaving around 7k.  

Best pass was
R/T .019
60 1.677 (First night into the 1.6s)
330 4.351
1/8 6.563
Mph 110.98
1000 8.486
¼  10.126
Mph 137.19

I should have drained the tank as it had at least 4 gallons in it. I should have asked around to see if anyone was checking the Density Altitude. (I need to get my instrument back) It was hot and humid! Altitude here is about 1000’.  The seat helped a bunch. I was sliding back too much on the launch before.

How much is a small box mod worth? How much will it screw up the map?  

Comments, suggestions, welcome.  

Link to complete times



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[NiTrowood]

i would say mod the airbox and try all short stacks......and yes only have 1 gallon or less
and congrats on your progress!!!



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[jasonbusa]

I haven't started racing my bike yet, but it is all about being consistent. Learned from a friend that wins brackets running 7.70's over 175mph in a dragster....... Once you figure out your traction situation and clutch/launching holeshot; work on your consistent reaction time on your full tree. Most people will leave when a light is lit, whether it be the first,second,third yellow. I found out what worked for me was to stage deep and leave when the second yellow light turned off.... before the 3rd yellow light was on. 1st yellow-PING,then OFF; 2nd yellow-PING,then OFF/GO!!!! That made a difference for me when racing cars. You could do the same and experiment with which ever works for you.GOOD Luck!

 

 

[1300hemibusa]

Where I’m at now.

Full Yosh, PC, Mapped, Stock airbox, MT Shootout tire with 20-25lbs depending on conditions. Front dropped 1 ¼ with genmars and strapped another 1 ½ or so. Rear down about 2.5, stock arm, fiberglass drag seat, 16/42 gearing, Brocks ultra clutch mod, shift light set @ 10,600, no air shift, 87 octane, me weighing 230#s, rebound on rear shock set @ 0 clicks, launching with left foot on the peg to get 1-2 shift.

Went out last night, ran a easy launch to begin with to check out the clutch mod.. 10.36 then 10.25 10.20 10.22 10.12 10.29 (spin)  10.16 (dropped 2lbs psi rear)


The 10.20s were leaving @ 5500-6000 rpm the last 3 were leaving around 7k.  

Best pass was
R/T .019
60 1.677 (First night into the 1.6s)
330 4.351
1/8 6.563
Mph 110.98
1000 8.486
¼  10.126
Mph 137.19

I should have drained the tank as it had at least 4 gallons in it. I should have asked around to see if anyone was checking the Density Altitude. (I need to get my instrument back) It was hot and humid! Altitude here is about 1000’.  The seat helped a bunch. I was sliding back too much on the launch before.

How much is a small box mod worth? How much will it screw up the map?  

Comments, suggestions, welcome.  

Link to complete times

I think you doing very well for the 230 pounds rider weight  and stock wheel base.... Only thing i see is you are weak from the 60 to the 330.... That leads me to believe that you are not getting the throttle pinned before the 330... I have the same problem with a stock wheel base bike ..
 What i found i was doing wrong was where i had my hand and wrist angle ...My hand was set allmost level and i was not getting to full throttle, my arm would hit the tank  at about 3/4 throttle.. The fix is to cock your wrist upward about 1 or 2 O'clock ..If you are at 3 O'clock you not getting full on.. You should be at 113 to 114 in the 1/8 mile and you will see 9s in the 1/4 mile...Keep up the good work ... seat time will get you there ...



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[Professor]

I think you doing very well for the 230 pounds rider weight  and stock wheel base.... Only thing i see is you are weak from the 60 to the 330.... That leads me to believe that you are not getting the throttle pinned before the 330... I have the same problem with a stock wheel base bike ..
 What i found i was doing wrong was where i had my hand and wrist angle ...My hand was set allmost level and i was not getting to full throttle, my arm would hit the tank  at about 3/4 throttle.. The fix is to cock your wrist upward about 1 or 2 O'clock ..If you are at 3 O'clock you not getting full on.. You should be at 113 to 114 in the 1/8 mile and you will see 9s in the 1/4 mile...Keep up the good work ... seat time will get you there ...

I think you are right, Im fairly certain I'm not getting full throttle quick enough. I've been working on where I'm grabbing the throttle. I'm still having to apply the front brake with one finger. Getting into the last stagging light with the rmp up, the front brake on and the clutch loaded, has been a challange.

 

[wedgester]

Thanks 4 all the info

 

[300Busa]

Is this a good launch? http://media.putfile.com/swingarm1

 

[Wolfman]

uh.... yeah

Hopefully I can do that at the track tonight.

 

[TALYN]

Great progress, keep it up you will be in the nines in no time.....

 

[launchmaster]

With the set-up that you're at, you should be in the 9's. You won't get into the 9's launching with one foot on the peg, you got to have both feet down for balancing. 5000 rpm is all you need for launching with your set-up. now if you extend your bike then you'll have to go up on the rpm's. Put 93 octane in your busa that will help more and take your airfilter out only when you're racing. More air, more power.